At a Glance
When to Go
Nearly all international flights arrive at Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), located about 22 miles from the city center. Though public buses serve the airport, they’re notoriously inconvenient; you’re better off paying for a taxi (currently around AR$200 [about US$30] one way) at the official desks inside the arrivals hall. Some shorter flights arrive at Buenos Aires’ smaller, more central airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP).
Public transportation options include the traveler-friendly Subte (subway) and a vast, somewhat overwhelming system of colectivos (buses). At the time of writing, one-way fares were AR$2.50 (US$0.40) and AR$3.50 (US$0.50), respectively, but set prices increase regularly. Purchase Subte tickets in the underground stations before boarding, and if you’re getting on a bus, be prepared with exact change in monedas (coins) to feed into the machine behind the driver. Taxis are abundant and affordably priced; just be aware that many taxistas refuse large bills.
Food and Drink
Architecturally speaking, Buenos Aires is fascinating, particularly along the Parisian-style Avenida de Mayo and throughout the historic barrios of San Telmo, Recoleta, San Nicolás, and Monserrat, where the grand Spanish and Italianate buildings stand as testament to the city’s proud immigrant past. On rainy days, see some of the city’s museums—MALBA hosts many of the most significant Latin American art exhibits. For the most authentic taste of porteño culture, you’ll have to wait until after dark, when local dancers crowd the floors of traditional milongas (tango clubs) and imaginative musicians and DJs mix and mash provincial Argentine music with cumbia, hip-hop, and house music in the city’s nightclubs.
Buenos Aires hosts major events throughout the year. The biggest draws are the ArteBA art exposition, Feria del Libro book fair, Tango Buenos Aires Festival y Mundial, Casa FOA design festival, and La Exposición Rural, a farm show−like agricultural fair.
What the Locals Know
Bridget Gleeson is a freelance travel writer and occasional photographer based in Buenos Aires. She's written about Latin American food, wine, design, and culture for Lonely Planet, LAN Airlines, BBC Worldwide, The Guardian, Wine Enthusiast, Jetsetter, and Tablet Hotels, among other publications. Follow her adventures at bridgetgleeson.com.