Detroit

While many people still associate Detroit with cars and crime, the Motor City today is undergoing a long-awaited renaissance. The metropolis is filled with innovative restaurants, cool bars, and hip enclaves, and the influx of creative types from cities like New York and San Francisco shows no signs of abating. Detroit is still some way from its post-war glory days—it was once called the Paris of the Midwest—but everywhere you go you’ll be welcomed by resilient locals who love their hometown and are participating in its revival. And when you need to escape and relax in nature, the Great Lakes are at your doorstep.

Photo of the colorful lobby of The Shinola Hotel in Detroit

The Shinola Hotel in Detroit

Photo by Nicole Franzen

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Detroit?

Detroit is a city of extremes. Winters can be brutal if you’re not used to lake-effect snow or cold temperatures and summers are invariably hot and humid. Spring and fall are the best times to visit. The trees and flowers are in bloom in April and May and everyone has a pep in their step. September and October are great months as well: Locals go hiking or head to the cider mill to enjoy a donut and a drink as they take in the fall foliage.

How to get around Detroit

Detroit Metropolitan Airport (DTW) services the area and flights come from all over the country and world. While public transit does exist in the city, it’s not reliable. This is the Motor City, after all. If you don’t have an automobile, you’re out of luck: Detroit is expansive and getting anywhere takes time, so rent a car to explore. If you’re sticking to Downtown, the People Mover—a rapid transit railway—takes you to points of interest in a nearly three-mile radius. And it only costs 75c for a single ride.

Can’t miss things to do in Detroit

Nothing beats taking a stroll along the Detroit River on a warm June night. Detroit comes alive in the spring and summer and the Detroit International Riverfront, stretching from the Ambassador Bridge to Belle Isle, is host to many festivals and events, such as the Detroit-Windsor International Freedom Festival and the Detroit Electronic Music Festival. Head over the Ambassador Bridge and stroll through Windsor, Ontario, considered by many locals to be an extension of the Motor City.

Food and drink to try in Detroit

If you want to eat it, Detroit’s got it. The city is teeming with nearly every type of cuisine you can think of: world-famous Coney Island hot dogs, stellar Hellenic eats in Greektown, trendy soul food, authentic Middle Eastern kibbeh that reminds you of your Syrian grandmother, and more. In recent years, the city has seen an uptick in farm-to-table restaurants as well as microbreweries. Restaurant prices are affordable so bring your empty belly and a small amount of cash.

Culture in Detroit

Just because Detroit is a solid factory town doesn’t mean there’s a dearth of culture. The Detroit Institute of Arts is one of the great museums of the world, home to work by Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Rodin, and Rivera. In fact, Diego Rivera, accompanied by Frida Kahlo, made the city his second home in the 1930s. You can see his colorful murals paying homage to the city’s industrial heritage all over town. The Henry Ford pays tribute to Detroit’s automobile history and the art deco Fox Theatre, a National Historic Landmark, plays host to concerts and plays. Don’t forget to pay your respects at the Motown Historical Museum, aka “Hitsville U.S.A.” This is where the Motown sound got its start.

For Families

Detroit is perfect for families. Hop into your rental car and head to one of the many museums for a bit of culture. The Michigan Science Center is a great spot to take the kiddos for an educational excursion. Metro Beach is a popular place for locals who want to soak in the sun on a clear summer’s day.

Local travel tips for Detroit

Detroiters, and Michiganders as a whole, are a friendly and fiercely proud bunch so don’t be surprised if someone says hi and asks what you think of their city. But there are a few tips you should follow to get the most out of your stay: If someone asks you where you’re from, they are genuinely curious and not trying to be rude. Strike up a conversation with strangers, whether a bartender or someone next to you on the People Mover. Detroiters are always happy to help a tourist since the city saw a dearth of visitors for many years. And don’t ever ask for a “soda.” It’s “pop” in these here parts.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Stay at a hotel housed in a historic building, picnic on an island, go dancing at an underground music hub, and more tips from local artist Tiff Massey.
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Part sustainable residential building, part eco-friendly lodge, the El Moore has been witness to Detroit’s turbulent history. The restored Victorian building boasts rooftop urban cabins, expansive suites, and bunk-bedded garden view rooms, covering various price points. Rooms feature reclaimed wood and subway tiles as well as ash paneling, geothermal heating, and solar paneling.
The smallest hotel on our list, Honor & Folly is the place to go if you want to avoid the crowds and feel as if you are visiting family. The second-story guesthouse features two rooms, perfect for couples traveling together or a small family looking for a quiet escape. Hardwood floors and exposed brick abound and guests are welcome to order a picnic basket to go or reserve artisanal groceries in advance.
“Have you heard about d’Mongo’s? It is Ryan Gosling’s favorite place to visit when he comes to town!” Although I never saw Ryan Gosling, bartender Red knew immediately that I was new in Detroit and that I’d never been in before. She recommended I try the Detroit Brown, made with Michigan’s own ginger ale: Vernors. As I sipped gently from the cold glass and looked over the top of its rim at the eclectic crowd filling the speakeasy, I couldn’t help but think, “Who cares what celebrity does or doesn’t frequent this place, I’d come back here for the drinks and the crowd any day!” Cafe d’Mongo’s draws a crowd every night it is open—which is usually only on Friday, maybe Saturday—and whether the customers come because of the drinks, the music, the crowd, or because they hope to see Ryan Gosling or Mark Wahlberg, the point is they keep coming. There’s an element of secrecy that has kept even my hotel’s valet from being able to tell me how to get to the revered speakeasy, yet it’s one of the first places I heard about when I asked people on the street where I needed to go get a drink in Detroit. If you find yourself at Cafe d’Mongo’s, tell Red I say hello, and order the Detroit Brown.
Rocky’s has been in business in Detroit since 1969. In its current form on Russell Street in the Eastern Market neighborhood, it’s a superstore for candy and nuts. However, it also offers spices, oils, specialty cooking items like gluten-free flours and mixes as well as ‘Made in Michigan’ products, such as McClure’s Pickles. Most items are only available in bulk. Some items are pre-packaged. Take your time exploring the aisles, Rocky’s is not small and hidden gems abound in its many aisles. It’s an ideal place to take the kids but travelers of all ages will find something to love. Products can also be ordered online and shipped to your home.
Down a side street not far from MoTown Museum and the Wayne State University’s main campus is one of the city’s hidden art gems. Lincoln Street Art Park is an evolving community collaboration between local artists, the Michigan Council for Arts and Cultural Affairs, the Detroit Recreation department, and the adjacent recycling center. Visiting the outdoor site, particularly on a sunny day, is akin to walking into the rugged studio of an artist, complete with seating area, mini library, and house pet. In this case, a giant dinosaur twice the size of an average loft’s ceiling, but reminiscent of a pet nonetheless. I explored the park alone, but I think it would be a wonderful place to visit for a couple on a date and a really good option for kids to roam and explore at leisure. The outdoor exhibit is open rain or shine, 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year and is free to the general public. The park is located at 5926 Lincoln Street, Detroit, Michigan 48208.
With just over a year in business, Green Dot Stables is still new, but owner Jacques and his wife took over a building in Corktown that isn’t. Instead, they took it from abandoned and historical to historical but fresh. The interior still retains its ode to horse racing and is kitschy appeal without being cheesy. An innovative new menu presided over by Les Molnar features more than 20 unusual and classic sliders with a “mystery meat” option that changes often. On the day I visited, the special was Lamb Tongue with Dijon Brown Butter and Fennel Relish. My favorite was the Corned Beef Slider with Wigley’s-Brinery Kraut, Pickle and Mustard Aioli. Local and imported beers anchor the drink list and their soda (or pop as it is known in the Midwest) is mixed in-house with locally made syrup. Optional sides include truffle fries, poutine, chicken and orzo salad, kale & quinoa, or classic mac ‘n’ cheese. Menus items start at an affordable $2 and it is a packed house during the lunch rush so plan accordingly or visit at odd hours to ensure fast service.
Elwood Bar and Grill now lies in the shadow of Comerica Park on Adams but it was built in 1936 by Charles Noble at the corner of Elizabeth Street and Woodward Avenue. Moved in 1997 to make way for the new Tigers stadium (Comerica Park) it was and still is downtown Detroit’s most recognizable art deco diner. Now restored following its move, it is the premier place for sports fans, history buffs, couples, singles, and anyone looking for a good time to hang out on game day or any other day of the year. Its proximity to Comerica Park and Ford Field (the latter is where the Lions play), also makes it ideal both for pre- and post-game enjoyment. A recently expanded menu also makes it a great place not just to drink, but also to eat.
Restored to its former glory in 2008, the Italianate Westin Book Cadillac Detroit in Downtown is on the National Register of Historic Places and has 453 neutral-toned guest rooms—all with city or Detroit River views—an indoor pool, and an award-winning restaurant.
Come for a sip of the Cliff Bell at happy hour (that’s Dewar’s Scotch, sweet vermouth, Absinthe Ordinare, and orange bitters), stay for the live jazz and the lively 1930’s atmosphere. Cliff Bell’s jazz bar in downtown Detroit is a slinky watering hole, and a legendary one at that, named for speakeasy owner and colorful local entrepreneur John Clifford Bell. Although the club was shuttered for 20 years from 1985 to 2005, it now swings on with nightly live music and even serves up bottomless mimosas for Sunday brunch.
New York, Washington D.C., and Chicago get a lot of the good press when it comes to the arts and art museums, but the Detroit Institute of Arts helps Detroit give these cities a run for their money. The diverse collection is spread out over 100 galleries and includes African, Asian, Islamic, and modern and contemporary art (and the list goes on). But don’t ignore the local contributions to the art world. Make sure you take proper time to stand before Diego Rivera’s enormous Detroit Industry fresco to give you some historical context before exploring the rest of the city.