Arizona

With everything from alpine forests to deserts dotted with saguaro cacti, the landscape in Arizona is mesmerizing. The state’s natural landmarks are most readily apparent, but thousands of years of human habitation have also made their mark on the terrain—many of the canals that irrigate Phoenix follow the contours of ditches dug by the ancient Hohokam people. The unwaveringly sunny weather makes an outdoor lifestyle possible year-round, and a growing food scene means you’ll be well fed during your visit. In Arizona, the Grand Canyon is really just the beginning.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Arizona?

Visit October through early May to avoid the stifling heat. Places like the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley, which are exceedingly popular in the summer, will also be quieter in late spring or early fall. If your trip does coincide with the warmer months, the Mogollon Rim highlands offer cool relief. Meanwhile, Flagstaff is the perfect winter playground. Just remember that snowy road closures are common at higher elevations. No matter when you visit, be prepared for cool nights everywhere in the state.

How to get around Arizona

Arizona’s two major airports are in Phoenix and Tucson. By car, I-10 and I-40 are the main east–west routes across the state. El Paso to Tucson is about a four-hour drive, and from Los Angeles to Phoenix is about five and a half hours.

A car—with air-conditioning, and ideally tinted windows—is an absolute must to get around the state. Always carry extra water.

Food and drink to try in Arizona

Arizona has a burgeoning local food scene that goes far beyond Mexican and cowboy fare. Vineyards and orchards blanket higher elevations across the state, while citrus fruits and pecans thrive in the heat. Though desert covers much of the state, the sea is only a few hours away, so ceviche and sushi are as popular as chimichangas and steaks. If you want to try Southwest fusion or international cuisine, head to Tucson and Phoenix—these diverse cities do the food of many regions well. Just save room for a prickly pear margarita, and remember that guacamole and salsa are as Arizonan as red rocks and cacti.

Culture in Arizona

A historic blend of American Indian, Hispanic, and Anglo cultures makes Arizona a much more eclectic destination than many realize. Pre-Columbian ruins sit alongside modern cattle ranches, while the Mission San Xavier del Bac, a masterpiece of baroque desert architecture near Tucson, was founded by the Spanish in the 1690s and still serves as the parish church for the local Tohono O’odham nation. Arizona also has some excellent museums, such as the Heard Museum in Phoenix and the Arizona State Museum in Tucson.

In Arizona, there are even festivals for every taste and season. Winter brings the Renaissance Festival, Tucson Rodeo, Tucson International Gem and Mineral Show, Tucson Festival of Books, and the Fiesta Bowl, while the spring sees the Scottsdale Culinary Festival, Tucson International Mariachi Conference, and Country Thunder. Summer is the time for the Annual Festival of Navajo Arts & Culture, Prescott Frontier Days, and the Sedona Hummingbird Festival. And in the fall, enjoy grape-stomping at various wineries, the Arizona State Fair, and El Tour de Tucson cycling events.

Local travel tips for Arizona

Summer is jaw-droppingly hot, but you can still enjoy the outdoors—just start at dawn so you can finish well before mid-morning. If you get caught in a sandstorm while driving, pull off the road and turn your lights off. Finally, when in Arizona, burritos are called burros.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Hit the trails at the Cave Creek hiking area, about 30 miles north of town in the Tonto National Forest, to see the rare crested saguaro cactus in its fantastic fan shapes. Trail number 4 meanders alongside Cave Creek for most of the 10-mile trek, providing many opportunities to dip your toes. The trailhead is located off Forest Road 24, (480) 595-3300. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue. Illustration by Michael Hoeweler.
The owners of FnB—James Beard Award semifinalist chef Charleen Badman and front-of-house manager Pavle Milic—were early champions of Arizona wine and produce, curating a wine list that includes lots of Grand Canyon State vintages to accompany their locally sourced dishes. They still highlight the state’s great bounty, and Milic even produces his own wine label, Los Milics, which is available in small batches at the restaurant. Badman’s seasonal menu showcases Arizona’s flavor with an imaginative, very veggie-forward lineup. (Don’t worry, meat and seafood are on the menu, too.) The cozy eight-seat bar is the perfect spot to sample FnB’s wine offerings, showcasing a different region every four weeks.
The museum’s collection and calendar of exhibits is a little more daring than you might imagine, but the permanent installation of James Turrell’s Knight Rise presents visitors with the biggest art jolt of all. The work, open to the public for free, consists of a circular bench beneath a luminous domed ceiling. An elliptical hole cut into the top of the dome contains a glimpse of sky. When observed in this manner, even the clearest desert sky seems to shift and pulse and fill the window with pure exuberant color. Come at dawn or sunset for the best (and often most solitary) viewing.
Camelback Inn is offers my dream staycation. This AAA 5-Diamond hotel has maintained its excellence since it first came around in the 1930’s. it has an old pueblo-style feel that really exemplifies Southwestern culture. You’ll get the most amazing treatment here from the moment you walk in. Granted you’ll be paying for it. They offer larger property options where you have access to your own private swimming pool. It’s really one of the most historic hotels in Phoenix.
Tis the season to be jolly! If you’re feeling festive around the holidays or perhaps you want to keep Christmas going all year long, then a visit to the Coach House should be on your holiday wish list. When the holiday season approaches, Scottsdale locals make a trip to their favorite local watering hole to experience a festive spirit unlike anywhere else. Staffers shut down the joint for a few days in order to deck the bar from head to toe with wrapping paper, tinsel, ornaments and twinkle lights that overtake you with Christmas cheer. The bartenders and staff are laid back, friendly and really love what they do. Note: This place can get packed during the holiday season on a late Friday or Saturday night. And, the lights stay up all year!
You will want reservations to get into this place. The Mission Restaurant and Lounge serves modern Latin cuisine in a fantastic bar restaurant with a wonderful outdoor back patio (seen here). The chef is Matthew Carter, also known for the House and Zinc Bistro. For desserts, order the pumpkin bread pudding with scotch, pepitas, and pomegranate.
Tacos. Traditionally Mexican. These days, however, tacos are taking on some new personalities. Though some of the most memorable flavors I’ve ever had on a corn tortilla are still traditional, (pickled onions, please) there are a few new taco flavors that thrill me. Blanco Tacos and Tequila in Scottsdale, Arizona, has created a taco with bbq pork, rich cream, and roasted corn. A nod to the taco’s Mexican heritage, with a hint of the American South.
Want hot chiles? mild peppers? powder? paste? Across from the old Spanish mission in Tumacácori, you’ll find it. For decades, family-owned and family-run Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Co. has been providing flavors in Southern Arizona. There’s even a mini Western Museum...and of course, you can sample the sauces and salsas... The Santa Cruz valley, between Tucson and Nogales, is one of the oldest continually-farmed regions in the U.S.; for four thousand years, native peppers, beans, squash, cactus and corn have been cultivated, even here in the desert. Then, beginning in the 17th century, Spaniards introduced Mediterranean plants: grapes, figs, pomegranates, figs, quince...and cattle ranching. A small garden on the grounds of the Tumacácori mission across the road from the Santa Cruz Chili Co. still grows some of these heirloom crops. A visit to the mission and spice market make for a great afternoon or day trip from Tucson. Go south from Tucson on I-19 for about an hour. (Note: I-19 is marked in kilometers, not miles; quirky.) Take Exit 29, turn left, then turn north on the old highway, and you’ll see the big chile-pepper sign on the left, just before you get to Tumacácori mission National Historical Park. The store is closed on Sundays.
Tucson is predictably well-endowed with Mexican restaurants...But it’s still worth driving about an hour south to the little town of Tubac for a meal at Elvira’s. Upon entering the cool space, you won’t be surprised to learn that the chef/owner got degrees in design and graphic arts before going to cooking school. The restaurant, family-owned since 1927, is named after Ruben Monroy’s grandmother. Originally located in Nogales, Mexico, Elvira’s moved up to Tubac a few years ago... Have a welcoming “Hola-tequila-shot” (just fifty cents!) while perusing the menu...I had the pipián rojo mole—perfectly tender chicken under a vibrant sauce made with ground pumpkin seeds; my wife tried the day’s light lunch special of mushroom enchiladas with tomatillo salsa, and for out-of-town family, the squash-blossom-stuffed poblano chile relleno “Frida Kahlo.” Beef tongue with salsa verde and the other moles will have to wait for a return visit. Suspended from the ceiling are constellations of lanterns, blown-glass teardrops, flying cherubs—Mexican folk-art with a surreal twist. Your eyes will not be bored. More importantly, neither will your taste buds... (Tubac, incidentally, was the starting point of the 18th-c. expedition that led to the founding of San Francisco, Santa Clara, & San José, CA. Not much of the original Spanish presidio remains, but for the past few decades, “where art and history meets” has become the slogan of this ‘artists’ colony’ in the high desert.)
No, you don’t have the wrong address—this is indeed a downtown office building and parking garage. But don’t be alarmed. Walk through the door, and Café Poca Cosa’s stylish interior tells you immediately that this is no boring strip mall Tex-Mex joint. Neither, fortunately, is it an overly precious nouvelle-cuisine bore. It’s been voted “Best Mexican” in Tucson by locals, who know that chimichangas were born in this desert town. That said: you’ll find no chimichanga combo-plate here. Chef-owner Suzana Davila changes the chalkboard menu twice a day. Her concentration is on fresh ingredients and innovative dishes that translate regional cuisines rather than betray tradition. National publications have sung her praises, but Ms. Davila still checks on her own customers and eats lunch in the dining room with everyone else. She’s a self-taught native of Guaymas who can concoct over two dozen varieties of mole. Complex sauces, refreshing drinks (such as pineapple-basil agua fresca), and Baroque masks in red niches await you. Come for a late lunch on a weekday if you want to avoid the justifiable crowds. Have an open mind (and mouth), and discover how great contemporary Mexican cooking can be. Tucson can be proud of its plentiful taco trucks and Sonoran hot dog stands, but Poca Cosa celebrates the variety of Mexican cuisine for when you want to sit down in style. Buen provecho!