Mexico City

Don’t be intimidated by Mexico City’s size. It’s easy to find a corner of CDMX—formerly known as the Distrito Federal—for you, and one visit is rarely enough. Visitors quickly fall under the city’s spell: the music, the people, the street food and murals, and the thrilling juxtaposition of grand European-style boulevards, ultramodern architecture, and ancient Aztec sites. As journalist David Lida asserts: “Mexico City is the capital of the 21st century.” Give in to its siren song.

Palacio De Bellas Artes

Palacio De Bellas Artes

Photo by Ramiro Reyna Jr/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Mexico City?

Weather-wise, it’s almost always a good time to visit Mexico City. Because of the altitude (7,382 feet), temperatures remain fairly stable throughout the year, averaging in the mid-50s to low 70s. (Bring a light jacket and scarf and you’ll be fine.) But our favorite time to visit is between Christmas and Epiphany (January 6), because while almost everything’s open, the pollution and traffic are mellower because of the business holidays. Another great time to come is in the days around September 6 for the Independence Day festivities.

How to get around Mexico City

Mexico City’s Benito Juárez International Airport (MEX) is the primary point of arrival and departure for international flights. Taxis into the city center are affordable and take only about 20–30 minutes, depending on traffic.

Mexico City is massive, which can be overwhelming even to experienced visitors. AFAR’s partner, Context Travels offers visitors a private, historian- or architect-led introduction to downtown Mexico City from its roots as a center of government and ritual in the Aztec Empire to its commercial and cultural modern present.

Once in town, you can get around easily on the Metro, Metrobus, taxis, Uber, and the city’s bike-share program, Ecobici. The Metro and the Metrobus are extensive and very inexpensive. Taxis are a good option, to, but stick to the official pink cabs when hailing from the street. Uber is very affordable in CDMX and the app makes it easy for non-Spanish speakers to get around.

Can’t miss things to do in Mexico City

- Two pilgrimage sites for art- and design-minded tourists—architect Luis Barragán’s House and Studio and Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul—require tickets and often are sold out. Secure your tickets before you leave home.
- Cinco de Mayo is not a big deal in Mexico. If you’re looking for a party, come for Mexican Independence Day (September 16), Day of the Dead (November 1), or the Gay Pride parade in late June instead. (The annual December 12 feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe is more somber, but still pretty epic in scope.)
- Try and catch a Luche Libre match at Arena Mexico. You’ll get ridiculously fun entertainment, as well as recognize many of the same motifs you’ve seen in the city’s churches and cultural sites—good and evil, vivid primary colors, capes, and masks.

Food and drink to try in Mexico City

  • Local lunchtime is around 3 p.m., and dinner after 8.
  • Tip bartenders and restaurant servers 20% of the bill. You can get away with 15%, but live large and do your part for the economy.
  • Reservations for most of the big-name restaurants are available on apps like OpenTable and Resy. Book ahead and don’t wait until you get to town to get a table.
  • As in seemingly every other modern city, there are craft beer and artisanal cocktail scenes in CDMX. Jardín Chapultepec, a chill beer garden hidden between industrial buildings at the edge of the Condesa neighborhood, offers impressive examples of Mexican craft beers, as well as food stalls and picnic tables. Licorería Limantour, in Roma Norte, is our favorite destination for cocktails. The elegant Art Deco-inspired space is slightly less packed on weeknights so you can give your meticulously crafted drink the attention it demands.

Culture in Mexico City

There’s no better place to witness Mexico City’s sometimes confusing clash of culture than at the Zócalo. Here, in the main square of the city, you can relish centuries of history, grandiose architecture, and exceptional people-watching. The whole tension of the city’s past, present, and future is here, with the cathedral revealing the Catholic and colonial history and the Templo Mayor, right next door, practically throbbing with the violent Aztec past. The square is a swirl of activity with noisy street performers, vendors, local teenagers, and traffic all fighting for your attention.

Local travel tips for Mexico City

  • Cantinas will always serve snacks (called botanas) with your drinks.
  • This is not a city where you wear shorts.
  • Protests happen from time to time and are annoying and occasionally paralyzing (at least when it comes to traffic), but as long as they’re peaceful, police are not allowed to intervene.
READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These intimate, design-forward retreats across Mexico City will have you feeling like a local in no time.
When the flow of travelers slowed to a trickle after an earthquake struck the city in 2017, 10 boutique hotels, similar in style and service, united for a cause: survival.
Relax, reset, and recharge at the following hotels—each is ideal for a (long) weekend escape.
There’s one for every travel need, whether you’re searching for the best beer in a new city or want to propose to your significant other far from home.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
A step through Tío Pepe’s swinging saloon doors is a walk back in time indeed, to a classic cantina (dating to the 19th century) that, while skewing divey, harbors no ill will toward thirsty people of all stripes. Some regulars prefer to just stare into beer mugs, but you’ll also see mixed groups of colleagues from nearby offices popping in for attitude adjustments. Leave the haute mixology for another venue; but do take in the long, elaborate bar and whimsical beer-barrel light fixtures—something you just don’t get much anymore. Note that unlike many traditional cantinas, you’ll find zero food here, so BYO peanuts or potato chips if you’re feeling peckish.
This shop, down a tiny sunny alley off a sidestreet in Colonia Roma (Córdoba 67 interior 7), is like many other Mexico City’s shops that support women’s crafts collective, but it’s slightly different in that it carefully curates its inventory—made using the local traditional crafts of weaving, embroidery, jewelry-making—choosing only those pieces that complement a more modern lifestyle. Yes, that’s a traditional huipil, or pullover tunic, from Guerrero, but while this simple embroidered piece would work for your abuela, it would also look cool at your graphic design gig in LA. The shop has outlets at Hotel Condesa DF and its products are carried by stores in Puebla and Tulum.
If you’re shopping for a foodie friend or you want to take some of the flavors of Mexico home with you, Bottega Culinaria is a one-stop-shop for food-related souvenirs. Here, you’ll find sal de gusano (sea salt mixed with ground worms from the Mexican agave) and Ancho Reyes, a chile ancho liqueur that’s perfect for cocktails. There’s also Mexican vanilla, chocolate studded with chiles, and other unexpected treats.
Chapulín is a restaurant that aims to fuse Mexico‘s traditions and contemporary influences into a single experience. That idea isn’t found just on the menu—where diners will find dishes like scallops with jicama and green melon—but also in the music and the restaurant’s decor. And yes, diners can put in an order for chapulínes, the grasshopper for which the restaurant is named.
They intended it as their gift to Mexico, and what a gift it is. Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, two of the most famous artists of the 20th century, worked with renowned Mexican architect Juan O’Gorman to create Museo Anahuacalli, a temple-like structure that houses the 50,000+ pre-Hispanic objects Rivera collected during his lifetime. The museum, whose design was also influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright and his notions about the role of the physical environmental in the conceptualization and construction of buildings, also showcases hundreds of pieces of artisan and craft works representative of Mexico. Note that the museum is not open on Monday or Tuesday.
There’s a lot to recommend the Camino Real in Polanco, especially if you’re an architecture and art aficionado. The hotel, designed by the late Mexican architect Ricardo Legoretta, is considered one of his master works; the shape of its pink and yellow exterior is intended to call to mind a pre-Hispanic pyramid, and its caldera-like fountain in the driveway, designed by Noguchi, is perpetually roiling. Inside, you’ll find museum-quality art, including pieces by Mexican masters José Luís Covarrubias and Rufino Tamayo, as well as Alexander Calder. Rooms are large, quiet, and comfortable, and the hotel, a favorite among business travelers, has a full complement of amenities, ranging from pools and a fitness center to a number of restaurants, including Morimoto.
Classic luxury in a colonial building is what visitors can expect of Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City, located near the swanky neighborhood of Polanco and the sprawling Chapultepec Park. Proximity to the park offers respite from some of the noisier parts of the city, as does the hotel’s own expansive courtyard. Citrus trees and other greenery, tended by the same gardener since the hotel opened, radiate from a central fountain, while sculptures by Mexican artist José Luis Cuevas add even more atmosphere to the peaceful setting. This sense of refinement extends throughout the property, with Four Seasons’ signature service on full display—housekeeping, for example, is performed twice daily, and the staff can arrange for in-room massage services. Guests can also look forward to a contemporary Latin American restaurant, a tequila and mezcal bar, and a health club with a sauna and whirlpool.
Ultra-modern Hotel Habita sits on upscale avenue Presidente Masaryk, in the midst of the Polanco’s fine restaurants and shops. Opened in 2000 and renovated in 2012, the hotel, which looks like a glass cube, continues to attract travelers who appreciate its sleek design and superb location. Rooms are typical of Grupo Habita hotels-spare and uncluttered, with luxurious toiletries and high-tech amenities, like flat-screen TVs and free Wi-Fi. The staff is accommodating and will help guests with everything from transportation recommendations to securing reservations at top nearby restaurants, such as Biko, Pujol, and Quintonil. All three appeared on the 2015 “Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants” list.
A detour to the centrally located yet way-off-the-tourist-track neighborhood known as Buenavista leads to one of Mexico City’s most dazzling 21st-century landmarks, the Biblioteca Vasconcelos, a gorgeous public library. The structure, by Alberto Kalach and Juan Palomar, has the public entering a pyramid-style form, on an almost subterranean level, that opens up, cathedral-like, into a soaring space lined on either side by cantilevered book stacks that float nobly above it all. Dramatic artworks contribute to the overall temple-of-knowledge feeling that is, in fact, quite moving. More beautiful yet could be just how busy the library is, filled with eager students and bookworm families alongside (no joke) groups of teens always practicing pop-music dance routines in the library’s lateral gardens.
Mexico City’s fabulous Sundays-only flea market—in a down-at-the-heels neighborhood near the Centro Histórico that looks worse than it is—is a must-do for anyone who loves the nostalgic or the campy. No fewer than six block-long aisles host dozens of stalls featuring all manner of trash and treasure, including antique furniture and light fixtures; frilly housewares that get you back in touch with your inner grandmother; books and vinyl LPs (record players, too); artworks that might be worth a fortune; toys; dolls and action figures; and fantastic vintage beer and soft-drink trays that make great, practical CDMX souvenirs.