Italy

Italy is the seat of modern civilization, with an unrivaled storehouse of Renaissance art and home to some of the world’s most popular foods. Whether you go for the art, the food and wine, or the ancient history (or all of the above), you’ll find so much more—from the hustle of Naples’ streets to the gently rolling hills of Umbria to the coastal delicacies of Liguria.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Italy?

A summer spent wandering Italy can keep all those carb pounds in check because the temperatures in most of the country reaches into the 80’s. But since Italians take most of August off for their own vacations, lots of places are closed and the vitality of the country is transferred to the beaches. So, head to the peninsula in the spring or fall. Both are peak culinary seasons with a riot of vegetables appearing from April into June and the wonder of mushrooms and the wine harvest from September well into November.

How to get around Italy

The country’s main airports are in Milan and Rome. Over the past few years, airlines like Norwegian and Turkish Air have run outrageous deals if you fly through their hubs so if you can find a short hop into Italy from Oslo or Istanbul, it may be well worth the discount. Also look for airlines like SAS, KLM, and Swiss.

Italy has a very well developed and fairly reliable rail system that will get you to most towns of note without much delay but the rise of budget airlines means that flying between cities can be just as cheap. But if you want to tour the countryside you’ll still need a rental car.

Food and drink to try in Italy

Italy is a legendary culinary destination for a reason. There are plenty of tourist traps but the whole country is swimming in great wine, an exploding craft brewing scene, and a variety of creative culinary feats—with a focus on quality ingredients. In Italy you’ll find a culture that takes food seriously; don’t miss your opportunity to partake in specialties as well known as Parmesan cheese and Chianti wine or the local specialties of every small town and region. Slow Food has an excellent set of guides and seeing the distinctive snail logo in shop and restaurant windows is a positive cue.

Culture in Italy

Rome is the obvious starting point for culture vultures because it’s drenched in ancient, medieval, papal, and modern history. But Italy also has a tremendous musical footprint that comes alive most vividly in opera. Milan and Venice contain two of the greatest opera houses in the world in La Scala and La Fenice, respectively. Most cities of note, like Bologna and Palermo, contain dynamic opera houses which thrive on repertory and contemporary experiments.

Check out Siena’s summer Palio, a medieval horse race around the city’s central piazza. It’s full of pomp and fanfare—but go prepared, not an ounce of it is sanitized; jockeys are regularly injured, horses even more so. A similar race is held annually in Asti. In Venice, the annual carnival is enticing fun, with all those masks and Baroque plays. And the Venice Biennale, every two years, is a must-see for contemporary art lovers. Don’t forget that Italy is mad for soccer, so if you’re there during the regular season (roughly September through May), seek out a game to experience all the passion and fraternity. It’s even better when events like the European Cup or World Cup are being played; every bar or café will be full of fans.

Local travel tips for Italy

Major cultural institutions like the Uffizi and Borghese Gallery require reserved tickets. Make sure to buy tickets to major institutions well in advance. August is one big national holiday, when the entire country decamps for the beach, mountains, or foreign vacations. It can be fun to play in the sand with Italians but if you want to experience the country in all its glory, plan to avoid that month.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Da Gemma manages to meld fine dining with a relaxed atmosphere, making use of crisp white-linen tablecloths, artfully plated dishes, and a friendly, warm staff. The restaurant, one of Amalfi’s oldest outposts, has innovated without losing touch of the traditions that are fiercely held in this part of Italy. Seafood is the star of the menu, featured in appetizers, pastas, and entrées. Don’t miss the kitchen’s modern version of insalata caprese, with not just vine-fresh tomatoes but fried and liquefied ones, too. The impressive wine cellar holds a range of bottles from mostly Italian regions and vintages.
Pizza is always a good idea. And pizza fresh from a wood-fired oven served at a table as close to the sea without actually being in the water is an even better idea. Downstairs at the Hotel Covo dei Saraceni, this casual brasserie serves inexpensive pizzas for lunch and dinner. The chewy Neapolitan-style crust is slathered with San Marzano–tomato sauce and fresh, creamy mozzarella, decorated with a basil leaf or two. The simplicity is delicious. You can also order your pies for takeout.
La Piazzetta is known as the place to see and be seen while on glamorous Capri. The small square, officially the Piazza Umberto I, is the center of everyday Caprese life and is dominated by a unique freestanding clocktower that chimes every 15 minutes. For the best seat in town, head to Bar Tiberio, which sits just beside Santo Stefano cathedral. You will have a view of striking Monte Solaro, as well as all of the comings and goings from the funicular and along the shopping streets.


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Walk the long shop-lined Via Capodimonte (or, if you are feeling particularly industrious, climb the 921 Phoenician Steps to the very top) to reach the former home of the Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe. This 20th-century mansion, now a museum with magnificent gardens, sits almost 1000 feet above the sea and offers unbelievable views over Capri and toward Naples and Mount Vesuvius. During your visit, follow tradition and make a wish with your left hand touching the ancient Egyptian sphinx statue. There is a café at the top of the gardens and occasional live music on summer evenings.
You’ll recognize this setting as one that appears in some of the most iconic Amalfi Coast photos. The villa’s riotous beds of pansies and garden walls covered with vibrant bougainvillea are as jaw-dropping in real life. One section of the gardens dates back to the 13th century, but only traces of the medieval part remains. Most of the space is dedicated to a Romantic era–style garden that was designed by Francis Nevile Reid, a wealthy Scottish expat who owned and restored the villa in the late-19th century. In addition to touring the gardens, a small museum on the grounds with a cloister and tower is worth visiting. From June through September every year, the Ravello Festival is held here.
Beachy espadrilles, cloth bags printed with cheeky Italian phrases, and colorful Cruciani bracelets are just some of the fun inventory found in this small, stylish shop. There’s a little bit of everything here: bikinis and summery dresses, art books, and local crafts like an arty ceramic interpretation of il ciucciariello, the little donkey that is the local symbol for good luck. The shop also stocks useful maps of the many paths and beaches along the Amalfi Coast.
Begin your perfect beach day with a stop at this snackbar on Positano’s Spiaggia Grande for a sweet brioche and a cold cappuccino freddo. In the afternoon, come back for a scoop of gelato or a chocolate-dipped ice cream–bar snack. At the end of the day as the sun drops behind the mountain and the day-trippers leave, perch on one of the high stools at the cocktail bar and sip a cold gin and tonic or draft beer. The bar is attached to a formal restaurant that overlooks the beach.
Finding a table with a view, friendly service, and menu prices that don’t make you gasp is a rare thing in Capri. Ristorante Villa Margherita offers all three. Sit under the pergola at lunchtime, and take in the blues and greens of Marina Piccola down below. After dark, the space twinkles with soft lights and candles. Island classics such as insalata caprese and spaghetti alla Nerano, made with zucchini and provolone, are featured on the menu. Finish on a cool refreshing note with paper-thin slices of pineapple carpaccio marinated in ginger.
Stromboli’s second settlement is Ginostra, a tiny village (with a population of around 40 residents) that clings to the rugged, rocky shoreline and is surrounded by olive and lemon groves. The Stream of Fire lava flow separates it from Stromboli Town, and no pathways connect the two villages by land—so the only way to see Ginostra is by boat.