Italy

Italy is the seat of modern civilization, with an unrivaled storehouse of Renaissance art and home to some of the world’s most popular foods. Whether you go for the art, the food and wine, or the ancient history (or all of the above), you’ll find so much more—from the hustle of Naples’ streets to the gently rolling hills of Umbria to the coastal delicacies of Liguria.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Italy?

A summer spent wandering Italy can keep all those carb pounds in check because the temperatures in most of the country reaches into the 80’s. But since Italians take most of August off for their own vacations, lots of places are closed and the vitality of the country is transferred to the beaches. So, head to the peninsula in the spring or fall. Both are peak culinary seasons with a riot of vegetables appearing from April into June and the wonder of mushrooms and the wine harvest from September well into November.

How to get around Italy

The country’s main airports are in Milan and Rome. Over the past few years, airlines like Norwegian and Turkish Air have run outrageous deals if you fly through their hubs so if you can find a short hop into Italy from Oslo or Istanbul, it may be well worth the discount. Also look for airlines like SAS, KLM, and Swiss.

Italy has a very well developed and fairly reliable rail system that will get you to most towns of note without much delay but the rise of budget airlines means that flying between cities can be just as cheap. But if you want to tour the countryside you’ll still need a rental car.

Food and drink to try in Italy

Italy is a legendary culinary destination for a reason. There are plenty of tourist traps but the whole country is swimming in great wine, an exploding craft brewing scene, and a variety of creative culinary feats—with a focus on quality ingredients. In Italy you’ll find a culture that takes food seriously; don’t miss your opportunity to partake in specialties as well known as Parmesan cheese and Chianti wine or the local specialties of every small town and region. Slow Food has an excellent set of guides and seeing the distinctive snail logo in shop and restaurant windows is a positive cue.

Culture in Italy

Rome is the obvious starting point for culture vultures because it’s drenched in ancient, medieval, papal, and modern history. But Italy also has a tremendous musical footprint that comes alive most vividly in opera. Milan and Venice contain two of the greatest opera houses in the world in La Scala and La Fenice, respectively. Most cities of note, like Bologna and Palermo, contain dynamic opera houses which thrive on repertory and contemporary experiments.

Check out Siena’s summer Palio, a medieval horse race around the city’s central piazza. It’s full of pomp and fanfare—but go prepared, not an ounce of it is sanitized; jockeys are regularly injured, horses even more so. A similar race is held annually in Asti. In Venice, the annual carnival is enticing fun, with all those masks and Baroque plays. And the Venice Biennale, every two years, is a must-see for contemporary art lovers. Don’t forget that Italy is mad for soccer, so if you’re there during the regular season (roughly September through May), seek out a game to experience all the passion and fraternity. It’s even better when events like the European Cup or World Cup are being played; every bar or café will be full of fans.

Local travel tips for Italy

Major cultural institutions like the Uffizi and Borghese Gallery require reserved tickets. Make sure to buy tickets to major institutions well in advance. August is one big national holiday, when the entire country decamps for the beach, mountains, or foreign vacations. It can be fun to play in the sand with Italians but if you want to experience the country in all its glory, plan to avoid that month.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The scents that go into Ortigia’s gorgeous bath and beauty products are inspired by Sicilian plants (orange blossom, Sicilian lime, pomegranate, almond) and evoke the essence of this exotic, southern Mediterranean island. Beautifully presented in exquisite packaging, the bath essences, soaps, body lotions, scents and scented candles are all made from natural products in Sicily. They make wonderful gifts (if you can bear to give them away, that is…).
This brick-vaulted restaurant and bar is a great venue for jazz fans and the line-up of live acts on Thursday and Fridays nights includes well-known Italian musicians. You can eat a full meal here (try the Risotto Caruso with clams, shrimp and prosecco) or just order a snack and there’s a decent selection of wines.
Founded in the 9th century, Santa Maria della Scala was one of Europe’s first hospitals. It was also one of the first hospitals anywhere to disinfect its equipment and only stopped taking in patients in the 1980s. (The writer Italo Calvino died here in 1961.) The early history of the hospital is illustrated in the 15th-century frescoes decorating the walls of the Pilgrim’s Hall, and there is a fascinating archaeological museum housed in the labyrinthine basement rooms.
The rooftop restaurant of the Westin Excelsior hotel wins top prize for being the most panoramic spot for a meal in Florence; floor-to-ceiling, wraparound windows permit 360-degree views over the entire city and the hills beyond. Chef Matteo Lorenzini’s superb food lives up to the magnificent setting—so against the romantic backdrop of Brunelleschi’s Duomo and the thousand twinkling lights of the city, you can feast on seared scallops with chestnuts and lime, spaghetti with clams and crab cream, and Barbary duck.
One of the most fun places I dined at in Italy was Il Latini, in Florence. It’s in a large, maze-like building with aged prosciutto hanging from the ceilings, and art collaged upon the walls. Seating is at communal tables, and at times it felt like we were all at a wedding. In our case, my boyfriend and I sat with another couple from Australia, who were beginning their tour of Italy, but it’s easy to meet locals at this spot, too. The waiters and the owner are very persuasive when it comes to traditional Florentine food. I requested half of a Florentine steak, but I am sure I was given a full one—one of the largest I have ever seen served. It was cooked rare, and was extremely tender and flavorful. However, I am not much of a carnivore, and as such, my favorite part of the dinner was the fresh sage ravioli. After our meal, the waiter kept bringing shots and wine, which appeared to be on the house. There are no exact prices, and the waiter determines your meal’s cost.
A useful address for a snack after a visit to the Uffizi or Palazzo Vecchio, this gourmet sandwich bar and deli, hidden away down a narrow lane, serves delicious panini plus the odd salad. The sandwich selection (made with focaccia freshly-baked in a wood-fired oven) changes daily but ingredients are top-notch and sourced from all over Italy: gorgonzola cheese and salty anchovies is a favourite of mine. The price of your sandwich includes a glass of wine.
Family-run Ruggero is a bit of a hike from the centre of town, but in my mind, it is the best traditional trattoria in Florence, so worth the effort. You can expect textbook versions of Florentine classics from ribollita (a hearty bean-and-bread-based vegetable soup) to arista al forno (rosemary and garlic-spiked roast loin of pork), and an authentic, friendly atmosphere.
The recipe for the delicious, tiny truffle-cream sandwiches at atmospheric old Procacci is a guarded secret but, oh boy, are they good, especially when accompanied by a glass of prosecco. Smart Florentine ladies-who-shop flock here for a pit stop between purchases, but it’s also popular for an early-evening aperitivo. Procacci is additionally one of the few places to buy just-harvested truffles in Florence: look out for them in November and December. Heap truffle shavings over fresh, buttered taglierini pasta or a simple scrambled egg—after only one bite, you’ll understand the attraction to these precious, musty-smelling delicacies.
Located on the first floor of the bustling central market, Nerbone’s food stall has been serving up steaming plates of warming nourishment to hungry market workers since 1872 and is a great place to find local color and rock-bottom prices. The specialty is lampredotto (cow’s intestines) served in a bun with bright green salsa verde, but if you can’t stomach that (sorry….), there is also pasta and roast meats. The locals stand at the bar counter to eat, but there are a few tables too.
Set in a 12th-century palace that looks like the setting for a Wes Anderson film, Palazzo Avino is skirted in flower-filled gardens terraced across a cliffside in Ravello. Interiors are as opulent as the storybook architecture, filled with antiques and marble and featuring charming details such as stained-glass windows, Hermès textiles, and antique carpets. Picturesque is an understatement for the panoramas that extend from the sunbathing lawns that surround the pool area. Even the fitness facilities take advantage of the vistas: Cardio machines are set in cabanas in the gardens, making for arguably the world’s most scenic spinning sessions. Since you’re right in the center of town, guests can walk to several restaurants and bars or stay put at the hotel’s Michelin-starred Rossellinis, an alfresco lunch spot known for its lobster and champagne pairings; if you’re looking for something more spirited, opt for one of the 100 different martinis on the menu at the Lobster & Martini Bar.