Kerala

Kerala is the southernmost state on India’s western coast. A progressive socialist region—Kerala boasts of one of the highest literacy rates in the country—it’s also one of the country’s most beautiful, with a long sandy coastline, velvet green hills, and dense forests, all interpenetrated by the snaking channels and sweeping expanses of the backwaters. The state has a rich history and a tradition of hospitality, and it’s easy to slip right into the relaxed pace of life. The state capital, Thiruvananthapuram, is also known as Trivandrum; the popular city of Kochi is also known as Cochin.

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Photo Courtesy of Chiara Goia

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Kerala

Beaches, backwaters, and tea and spice plantations aside, there’s a lot of history to be enjoyed in Kerala. Stroll around Fort Kochi, the historic core of the city, and travel back to the time of spice traders and merchants along the lanes of Jew Town, past the Paradesi Synagogue. Visit the Santa Cruz Basilica and St. Francis Church, before heading to Mattancherry to enjoy the murals and temple art at Mattancherry Palace, a 1555 gift from the Portuguese to the Raja of Kochi. Kerala is home to some of the biggest temples in India and is a popular pilgrimage destination, with temples like the historic Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram, the Guruvayur Temple in Guruvayur, and Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur.

Culture in Kerala

Dance, music, and art are ingrained in the local way of life. Many Indian classical dance forms trace their roots to Kerala’s waters. The most well-known of these are kathakali—a dance drama traditionally performed only by men—and the graceful, 16th-century form of mohiniattam, a temple dance performed only by women. Kerala is also known for its ancient practice of kalaripayattu, a dramatic martial art form that dates back 3,000 years; daily shows take place at the Cochin Cultural Centre in Kochi. Modern forms of artistic expression are also revered; Kerala’s film industry is famous for churning out Malayalam masterpieces and blockbusters, rivaling the Hindi film industry based out of Mumbai.

Food and drink to try in Kerala

Three big influences dominate Kerala’s culinary culture: Hindu vegetarian preparations, which include the festive sadhya—a banquet of at least 20 dishes served on banana leaves—and popular rice-based snacks such as dosas and idlis; the Islamic influences of Malabar cuisine, known for its aromatic biryanis and flatbreads served with beef fry; and Syrian Christian flavors, with roast duck, stews, and crepes, as well as rich Christmas cakes. All three styles of cuisine make good use of coconut, both grated and in milk form. Seafood and root vegetables are also common, as are an assortment of homegrown spices.

Shopping

Kerala isn’t a place where you stock up on soft cottons and colorful footwear. In Kerala, you stock up on metals: brass, bronze, copper, and gold. Ornate brass and copper vessels, statues, and idols are particular specialties. In addition, given the popularity of jewelry in the state, there’s a gold shop on every other street corner. Products made from coir, a coconut fiber, are also a big draw, and include masks, mats, and handbags. Other items to look for include wood carvings, elephant figurines, foot stools, and unique vintage items, including ornate furniture. Shipping can be arranged by most sellers, if necessary. If you prefer to travel light, buy a bag of fresh, homegrown spices.

Practical Information

The weather in Kerala is comfortable from late October to May; June to September is monsoon season. Kerala has three airports that serve international and domestic destinations: Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram, and Kozhikode. All foreign visitors require an Indian visa. You can get around in private taxis, or take tourist buses and trains for longer distances. Malayalam is the local language, but English is widely understood. Local transactions are made in the Indian rupee (INR); hotels, big stores, and restaurants accept credit cards, but smaller establishments might not. ATMs are widely available. Most bills include a service charge in lieu of tip; if this is not added, it’s common to tip 10%. Electricity is 220 volts.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
To get a feel for Kerala’s rich and layered history, head to Fort Kochi. Once a small fishing village in pre-colonial times, this area—now the historic old town neighborhood of the city of Kochi—belonged to the Portuguese for much of the 16th and 17th centuries, then to the Dutch for a little over a century, then to the British until India’s independence in 1947. For all that time, the waterside spot served as an important port along the spice route, with Chinese and Arabian traders sailing through to pick up sandalwood, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, and other local goods. Today, Fort Kochi features myriad reminders of all who have lived and worked here: the Dutch cemetery, Koonan Kurish Old Syrian Church, and the 16th-century St. Francis Church, the Mattancherry Palace (aka the Dutch Palace), colonial Parade Grounds, still-in-use Chinese fishing nets, and the painted tiled-lined Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1567 and considered the oldest active synagogue in the commonwealth. The Indo-Portuguese Museum and Southern Naval Command Maritime Museum provide more context, while Fort Kochi Beach—with its colonial-era bungalows, Arabian Sea strand, and food stalls peddling the day’s fresh catch—draws both locals and tourists. Architecture buffs will love historic sites like Thakur House, Bastion Bungalow, and David Hall, many of which can be spotted from a stroll along breezy Church Road.
While Cochin’s St. Francis Church managed to survive through the different conquests of the city, its Roman Catholic cathedral was not as fortunate. Construction of the earliest church on the site began in 1505 and it was elevated to a cathedral in 1555. The Dutch spared it (along with St. Francis Church), but when the British assumed control of Cochin, they demolished the building. The current basilica, built in a Gothic style, was consecrated in 1905. It stands as a remarkable reminder of the persistence of Christianity (if not individual buildings dedicated to it) in Kerala, where, unusually for India, nearly one-fifth of the population is Christian.

While some claim that the first Jews arrived in Kerala as early as the reign of King Solomon, historical evidence that is more solid dates their presence here back to the 12th century. The area of Fort Cochin known as Jew Town has seven synagogues, but only the Paradesi Synagogue is still actively used. (Following the independence of India in 1947, many members of the Jewish community chose to immigrate to Israel or other Commonwealth nations.) Constructed in 1567, the synagogue has hand-painted porcelain tiles and an 18th-century clock tower that are both of special interest.

Set in Kerala’s quiet northwest corner, the 26-acre Vivanta by Taj Bekal Resort is home to the excellent Jiva Spa, a staggering 165,000 square-feet devoted to wellness and relaxation. As Kerala is considered to be the birthplace of Ayurveda (India’s millennia-old “science of life”), the menu is heavy on treatments that highlight traditional techniques and ingredients, and that are designed to both target specific issues and provide general pampering. The signature Abhyanga massage—great for travel-weary bodies—is performed with potent, heated herbal oils, while the Mukhalepa facial brightens the complexion with natural products like saffron; decadent two-hour signature services are also available, along with scrubs, wraps, yoga, meditation, and more. Book a complimentary consultation to find the services that fit your needs, or go all in with a multiday or multiweek program for yoga, detoxifying, Ayurvedic wellness, and other customized goals.
First opened in 1939, this beloved local favorite is now being operated by the third generation of the founding family, who’ve also expanded the brand with an outpost Kochi and a couple in Dubai. The original Calicut location began with focus on the variety of Malabar coastal cuisines, including Moplah (the dishes of the Muslims of northern Kerala) and Thyyas, by the Ezhavas community in the southern part of the state. The menu now includes both vegetarian and non-veg dishes from all over India, including curries and breads made in the tandoor, but there are also a number of unique regional specialties. Check out the baby squid pan-seared Malabari-style, traditional moiley curry, and a selection of additive breads, including crispy, lentil-based appam and a perfectly flaky, buttery paratha.
This upscale restaurant offers a glimpse into Kerala’s unique history along with its flavorful meals. Enter a stone archway to find yourself in a courtyard of a restored 18th-century mansion that was first built as a traditional, two-courtyard ettukettu house for the King’s consorts, then later embellished with European architectural flourishes. Choose a seat in the antique-furnished (and air-conditioned) interior, under one of the courtyard’s peaked stone-roof gazebos, or in the garden, surrounded by statues and fountains; all options take on a decidedly romantic feel at dinner when illuminated by candlelight. The menu includes both modern version of regional classics and dishes that highlight the flavors of areas once linked to Kerala by the Spice Route, including Morocco, Italy, and other parts of India. So you’ll find everything from Syrian sampler platters, crab curry, pasta, and fish sautéed with onions and black pepper, and desserts featuring caramel, chocolate, and local coffee—all presented with heritage style.
Ladakh, a region in the Indian Himalayas an hour’s flight north of Delhi (elevation: 11,500 feet), became a lot more accessible 10 years ago when Shakti Himalaya started hosting homestays in restored village houses. Their spacious new four-bedroom Shakti Indus River House and the three-bedroom Indus Farmhouse are well-appointed bases for families or groups looking to spend a week meditating with monks, white-water rafting, and hiking to nearby villages and monasteries.
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With its rich soil and tropical climate, Goa is an ideal setting for growing spices. Several plantations in the area offer guided tours, elephant rides, and lunches served on banana leaves but Sai Organic Farm and Herbarium goes beyond traditional spice tourism. Managed by an Ayurvedic doctor, the plantation also includes herbal gardens with aromatic and medicinal flora. Should you be suffering from a common cold, rash, asthma, or even kidney stones, the staff is quick to recommend Ayurvedic remedies. After walking the grounds, visitors can enjoy a Goan lunch prepared with freshly cultivated herbs and spices. Here, organic-farming methods reign supreme to assure the purity and quality of the plants (and also to preserve the site’s ecotourism designation). Sai Herbarium is welcoming and educational, and leaves a smaller footprint on the important spice zones of Goa.