Canada

Canada spans six time zones, and some say that it boasts the longest street in the world. This nation gave the world Leonard Cohen, Leslie Nielsen, Mounties, Tim Hortons, Superman, zippers, the light bulb, and the snowblower. This is a place where polar bears, poutine, and epic panoramas predominate. Canada’s wilderness beckons adventure-seekers from the world over, while the country’s cultural attractions, culinary marvels, hockey rinks, and artistic landmarks thrill visitors of all stripes.

Vancouver Canada totem pole

Jessie Beck

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Canada?

The best time to visit Canada depends on what you wish to experience. The snowy months of winter allow for world-class skiing, snowshoeing, and hockey games. Summer is ripe for sunseekers to explore both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts, the lakes of Ontario, and the wild country of the North. Spring turns the West into one gigantic flowerpot, while fall transforms Eastern Canada into a kaleidoscope of colors. Keep in mind that many Canadians travel during the summer months. Also, national parks and big cities attract thousands of visitors from the United States during school holidays and long weekends, when prices can soar in destinations like Toronto, Vancouver, Jasper, Montreal, Banff, Calgary, and Halifax.

How to get around Canada

Major international airports are spread across the country from Vancouver in the west to Halifax in the east. Many international visitors choose to arrive at U.S. border cities (e.g. Seattle, WA and Buffalo, NY) and then drive across the border. This can be a cheaper way of entering Canada, but be prepared for traffic and extended waits at border checkpoints during peak travel times.

Major cities like Toronto, Vancouver, Calgary, Montreal, and Halifax have excellent public transportation networks: taking the bus, riding the metro, or hailing a cab is a breeze. Smaller cities and rural towns are walkable, but you’ll need a car to get out into the countryside. Public transportation in and out of national parks is virtually nonexistent. The space between metro centers can seem daunting, so consider flying if you wish to cut down on travel times.

Food and drink to try in Canada

Canadian cuisine is as diverse as the country is expansive. On one city block—or on one menu—you may find restaurants serving Ukrainian, Chinese, Irish, German, Portuguese, Haitian, Nigerian, and Ethiopian dishes. Each province and city has its own culinary flair: you’ll find unique Western fare in Calgary and Edmonton, gastro-nouveau in Toronto and Vancouver, fine French dining in Montreal and Quebec City—and the best the ocean has to offer in Halifax, Charlottetown, and St. John.

Culture in Canada

Have you come for the great outdoors, or Winnipeg’s Folklorama? Perhaps you’re in town for Toronto’s MuslimFest, or you made the trek to quirky little Maxville, Ontario, for the Glengarry Highland Games. Massey Hall in Toronto has hosted the world’s largest musical acts for decades, while the Quebec Winter Carnival is Canada’s premiere winter event. The Edmonton International Fringe Festival, held every August, is the largest and oldest fringe fest in North America.

Canadians love to party. Canada Day (July 1) is celebrated from coast to coast, with Canadians and visitors packing public squares, stadiums, parks, and concert halls for massive festivals. The Calgary Stampede takes over Alberta’s largest city every July; Montreal’s International Jazz Festival (June 29–July 9) welcomes 2.5 million visitors each year; and Pride, Scotiabank Caribbean Carnival, The Canadian National Exhibition, and the Toronto International Film Festival bring revelry to Ontario’s capital.

Local travel tips for Canada

English is Canada’s common tongue, though French is spoken throughout Quebec and in many Atlantic cities. That said, you’ll hear nearly every other language in the big metro centers. The currency is the Canadian Dollar ($). Tipping is required (15%) in restaurants, and it is generally expected in taxis and hotels. ATMs are everywhere, and major credit cards are accepted across the country. Electricity is 110v.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
IndexG B&B was an art gallery before the owners renovated the second floor into a four-bedroom bed and breakfast. Housed on a sleepier stretch of Gladstone Avenue but close to the action of both the West Queen West and Parkdale neighborhoods, this family-run B&B offers affordable rooms and minimal amenities. Art is displayed throughout the hotel, and it is all available for purchase. With much to do in the area, this is a well-located hub from which to discover the best of Toronto.
At 185 acres, the Montréal Botanical Garden is less than a third the size of Mount Royal Park, but it manages to fit a remarkable collection of some 22,000 plant species and cultivars into that space, organized into 20 thematic gardens and including 10 exhibition greenhouses (ideal if you are looking for some tropical warmth in the depth of a Montréal winter). Everyone will have his or her own favorites when it comes to the different spaces—Alpine, Chinese, Japanese—but the First Nations garden stands out. Wandering alongside its pond and following its forested trails, you’ll feel like you are far from the city and instead in the northern reaches of the province of Québec—at least until you catch sight of the swoop of the nearby Olympic Tower, with its distinct incline. You can continue the naturalist itinerary at the Biodome, also nearby, where five different ecosystems of North America are re-created with flora and fauna—auks, lynx, penguins, and more.
The moment the snow melts, young Torontonians begin their annual spring migration to Trinity Bellwoods Park. The hippest park in town, Bellwoods stretches from the shopper’s paradise of Queen West up to central Dundas Street. On a summer’s day, sun-and-fun seekers spread out on beach blankets to watch the action: at the dog run, on the tennis courts, in the kiddie pool, and even closer, on the adjacent blankets. After dark, head to nearby Bellwoods Brewery for a pint.
Just a short hour drive away from Kelowna, and only a 5-10 minute drive from Penticton, Naramata sits hidden with acres of green vineyards cascading off of clay cliffs into Lake Okanagan. In the heart Naramara is the historic Naramata Heritage Inn & Spa. Built in 1908, some say it’s haunted with its history of being a school and the first cultural hub upon Lake Okanagan. Today it functions as an ideal getaway with nearby beaches, over 100 wineries and the variety of adventure activities nearby. I always make time to stop in during my wine tasting trips to sit in the sun with a glass of local wine and a variety of local cheese and charcuterie selections. This is foodie stop one shouldn’t miss while visiting the area if not staying with the hotel. Take a tour through the chefs garden, tour the quirky town of artists and vintners, or enjoy the cycling, zip lines, hikes, fishing and water sports all within the Central and Southern Okanagan.
The Gastown neighborhood dates back to the Victorian era when “Gassy Jack” Deighton opened a saloon in a burgeoning sawmilling settlement. Now its grand heritage buildings—in Romanesque, Edwardian and Victorian Italianate styles—and brick-paved streets are home to art galleries, design shops and stylish eateries. Don’t miss the statue of the storied tavern owner in Maple Tree Square and Water Street’s famous steam clock, built in 1977, which sounds off every 15 minutes.
This perennially popular bakery and sandwich spot can feel somewhat out of place. With its cozy atmosphere in a plant-filled space, and its menu of warm panini, delicious sandwiches on artisanal breads, generous salads, and perfectly executed pastries, it is the sort of restaurant you’d expect to find in one of Montréal’s cooler neighborhoods. Instead, it’s in the heart of Old Montréal. That is a definite plus for travelers visiting the city’s historic sights. It also means, however, that there is a lunch-hour rush when nearby office workers vie for tables. If you can plan on an early or late lunch—you’re on vacation, after all—you can avoid the worst of the crowd. Olive et Gourmando is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., so if you are looking for a place for dinner, the same owners are behind the new Foxy (in the Griffintown neighborhood), which is quickly proving as popular as their first restaurant.
Every book will tell you to have high tea at the Empress in Victoria, and you should. They welcomed our three-generation group, including 2 kids under 6, and had hot chocolate for those who didn’t want tea. They also had a full gluten-free option, which was a very welcome surprise. I recommend the Empress blend tea with milk and sugar, and the peppermint also got the stamp of approval from our group. The tri-level tray of treats is the fun part: chicken curry finger sandwiches and cake wrapped in marzipan were the faves. It’s actually fun and not stuffy at all, which was my fear.
Presiding over Stanley Park, Canada’s largest aquarium houses more than 50,000 creatures, from penguins to sea otters to three-toed sloths. Don’t miss the star turns from the rescued Steller sea lions Izzy and Rogue, who swoop gracefully under the water and bask on sun-warmed rocks. Afterward, be sure to visit the theater, which goes beyond 3-D with mist, scents, wind, and even lightning. Adding substance to style, the aquarium is also the headquarters of Ocean Wise, a global conservation initiative dedicated to increasing the understanding, wonder, and appreciation of our seas.
Halifax’s identity is tied to the sea, and its rich maritime history is the central theme of this eclectic museum. Popular exhibits include one dedicated to the role of Halifax after the sinking of the Titanic (the city’s ships helped with the recovery) and the devastating Halifax Explosion, a 1917 ship collision that killed 2,000. Don’t miss touring the CSS Acadia, a naval vessel once used for hydrographic missions.
Jennifer MacKay’s clothing boutique is the go-to store for fashionable locals, who know they’ll find pieces exclusively in her shop. I have a weakness for the shoes. (604) 685-8885. As told to Rhonda May. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue.