Antigua and Barbuda

Antigua and Barbuda is a Caribbean destination that’s both exotic and accessible. Here you’ll find a rich history to explore, some of the finest rums, unique delicacies like the Antigua Black pineapple—considered the sweetest in the world—and, in the surrounding waters, a vibrant sailing scene unmatched in the West Indies.

Caribbean sea, Antigua and Barbuda, Antigua island, windmills of Betty Hope, old cane sugar plantation

RIEGER Bertrand

Overview

How to get around Antigua and Barbuda

Antigua’s location at the middle of the West Indies island chain means it’s closer than about half of all other Caribbean destinations. From the United States, several major airlines land at VC Bird International Airport, just five miles from the island’s capital of St. John’s. Soon, the older, though not terribly bad, facilities will be retired, as a modern, brand-new terminal is slated to open in early 2015. No visas are required for travelers from the U.S., Canada, and a wealth of other European Union countries. Barbuda has just one tiny village, Codrington, where the miniscule airport and ferry landing dock are located.

You’ve got two main options. One, a trusted taxi driver. Inquire at your hotel for someone they regularly use. A driver will happily shuttle you around, rates are fairly reasonable, and you won’t have to worry about overindulging in the great rum selection. Or, rent a car. It costs less than being driven, and you’re completely free to explore at your leisure, uncovering unique experiences with a little direction and a lot of chance. Most hotels and resorts can arrange a car for you once you’re on the island. Just remember, all those years of British influence mean they drive on the left in Antigua and Barbuda.

Local travel tips for Antigua and Barbuda

Barbuda is blissfully undeveloped. The island is famous for its bird population, and is a choice spot for birders. To see the island on a day-trip from Antigua sign up for a tour with the Barbuda Express (they also offer island day trips for people staying in Barbuda as well) and they operate the daily catamaran service between the sister islands. If you’re staying on the island, know that most of the independent restaurants in Barbuda require 24-hour advance reservations, because they only buy enough food for confirmed guests.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
International travelers have been able to visit the Caribbean island nation since June—as long as they follow these test and health screening requirements.
HOTELS
Timeless icons, next-gen retreats, and private island hideaways—this is the Caribbean at its finest.
At these 14 luxury resorts, it’s possible to have that dream vacation on a private island—without having to own one.
Whether you’re traveling with toddlers, teens, grandparents, or in-laws, these Caribbean retreats offer a balance of ocean and cultural adventures, plus endless opportunities for play.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Goat water is basically a thin soup. Swimming in its brown depths you’ll find lumps of practically any part of a goat (usually bones and all), there’s clove, thyme, plus some other assorted herbs and spices, and depending on what island you find yourself sampling goat water, don’t be surprised to find some additional items in there like small dumplings, yams, and potatoes.


You can find goat water on many islands in the Caribbean from Antigua, Grenada, St. Kitts, Nevis, and many more. It’s even the national dish of Antigua’s neighbor: Montserrat!


On islands like Jamaica, expect a cousin of goat water to be served at weddings… Especially to the grooms. Why? Well, that version also goes by the name “mannish water” so can imagine what the expected results of slurping up a bowl!
Hidden out past quaint Five Islands Village, Hawksbill resort is seamlessly sprinkled over 37 acres of Caribbean gardens right on the water. Sure, Antigua is known for its 365 beaches so it shouldn’t be a surprise when a resort has more then one beach, but Hawksbill has, an impressive, four secluded strips of sugar-white sand easily accessible to guests with a fifth accessible to truly intrepid sun worshipers. Besides the sheer quantity, Hawksbill also sports a one-of-a-kind beach for Antigua. Beyond the southern point of the the 99 non-smoking guest rooms, down a little path, through a white fence, and around the bend is Eden Beach — Antigua’s one and only extremely concealed clothing-optional shore. It’s here, a matter of meters into the Caribbean Sea, that you’ll find majestic Hawksbill Rock (so named for its uncanny resemblance to a hawk’s profile) from which the property gets its name.
No guide to Antigua‘s beaches would be complete without including Long Bay Beach. Unquestionably, it’s one of the island’s finest beaches. The sand is almost blindingly white, like someone poured out a billion sugar shakers. The water is exceptionally clear and calm, especially at the eastern end where even toddlers could safely roam the shoreline without the fear of being barreled over by waves. There’s even good snorkeling near the beach’s reef, which you can actually walk out to! So, why don’t I love Long Bay Beach? Well, it can get a bit busy for my taste. There’s several restaurants including Mama Pastas, resorts including Grand Pineapple, and even a clutch of tiny shops selling local goods. So, if you’re like me, get here as early as possible. Maybe go for a morning run on the impressive sand. Then move on as the masses begin to descend.
I generally have a thing against beaches next to the road. Usually, they’re unfortunate victims to automotive pollution: obnoxious noises, exhaust fumes, and sneaky greases seeping into everything. Darkwood Beach is different. Sure, it’s right on the road on the southwest coast of Antigua, but somehow it escapes the usual woes of roadside sands. Maybe it’s because the road is fairly quiet. Or maybe it’s the persistent onshore trade winds. Or maybe it’s because people care enough to keep the beach clean. Regardless, what you, the traveler, get is a great beach with good swimming and snorkeling, plus a beach bar serving rum and traditional West Indian eats — complete with white plastic chairs in the sand.
Completely off-the-beaten-path and almost totally secluded in the northwest of Antigua is diminutive Bush Beach. I was staying at Blue Waters Resort when I felt the need for a little exercise, so I swung by their water sports shed to check out a kayak. I asked where I should go, to which the guy answered: “You should really stay in the bay here where I can see you... but if you want, you can try going around the bluff. There’s a beach back there no one goes to.” A beach no one goes to? Sign me up! Kayaking around the bluff wasn’t too difficult and the reward? Well, you’re looking at it. An untouched bush-lined beach all to myself! For those not staying at Blue Waters, there’s a slightly hidden path down to the beach from the road... Just don’t tell too many people about it!
Cavell’s Cook Shop hides in plain sight along the road that hugs the shore on Antigua’s southwestern coast. Its humble, nondescript outward appearance bears every likeness of a simple storage shed or roadside workshop. Thick, encroaching foliage on either side further suggest its owner might prefer his or her place to maintain a low profile. The long line of cars regularly parked astride the road outside Cavell’s at all hours of the day, however, tells a different story. So too do the savory aromas emanating from beneath her galvanize roof, and the smiles on the faces of her steady stream of people filing in and out of here. You see, small and simple though it may be, Cavell’s is the prime spot for real local food in Antigua. The sun pounding down on the galvanize roof combined with the heat put forth by the various cooking apparatuses maKe standing inside Cavell’s feel like limin’ in an oven. No one was complaining, though. Cold Wadadli’s and good company have a way of keeping things cool here. Come to Cavell’s with a smile, some patience, and an open mind and you’ll make friends of the broad swath of local Antiguans, representing all walks of life, easily.
You could travel to Antigua a dozen times and never know about Bushy’s 1 & 9 Best Matured Rum, but you would be missing one of the island’s most treasured spirits... and now perhaps rarest. Made by one man: John Gonçalves, better known as Bushy, this rum begins life as an overproof base obtained form Antigua Distillers Ltd—the folks behind, among other things, English Harbour Rum. After a bit of aging in oak barrels and the addition of several secret ingredients and blending techniques Bushy would never reveal, you get a rum that’s surprisingly smooth, dry, and even a little spicy with vanilla and nutmeg coming through. That explains why it’s treasured, but why is it rare? Well, that’s because Bushy passed away back in 2013 leaving no one to follow in his spirited footsteps. Should you find yourself in a proper local bar, try asking for Bushy’s, or, if you’re really in tune with the local scene, simply 1 and 9. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a last taste of an Antigua classic.
Blue Waters is luxury and elegance made manifest and placed with love amid 17 acres of lush Caribbean gardens in the northwestern corner of Antigua. What could you hope for from a resort like Blue Waters? Spacious, well-appointed bedrooms? Of course. Romantic cliffside dining that supplies stunning views of Caribbean sunsets? A soothing, bougainvillea-wrapped spa stocked with Elemis products—the leading British luxury skincare brand? How about not one, not two, but three secluded beaches at your disposal? Or maybe you’d prefer an immaculate infinity pool that juts practically right out into the Caribbean Sea? If you’ve dreamed it, Blue Waters likely has it... Or better.
All across Antigua you can find what may, at first glance, appear to be regular pineapples, but if you pass up on sampling the Antigua Black Pineapples, or just Antigua Blacks for short, you’d be missing what many call the sweetest pineapple on the planet. It’s said that Arawak Indians brought the first pineapples to Antigua’s shores more than 1,000 years ago. Upon cultivation in the island’s unique environment, these early pineapples soon adopted the distinctive flavor, appearance, and make-up of the Antigua Black we know today. The flavor being crisply sweet, not cloying, thanks in part to the Antigua Black’s low acidity. The appearance is so diminutive that you may think these pygmy pineapples aren’t ready for primetime compared to their oversized cousins from Hawaii, but one taste and you’ll change your tune. Check out Cades Bay Agricultural Station down south on Old Road to learn the history and explore the Antigua Black’s cultivation first hand.
At Pappa Zouk’s rum bar in Antigua the truest path to happiness is through a mix of rum, fresh fish, new friends, and zouk music. First you should know that Pappa Zouk’s is not a restaurant. It’s a rum bar with a dizzying array of rums, rhums, and rons from across the Caribbean and beyond. Yes, lucky rummies can supplement their rum intake with a full menu of authentically prepared fresh fish and other seafood delights, but first-and-foremost this quirky little space is dedicated to drinking and being merry. Secondly, you should know Pappa Zouk is not the mad German owner and bartender. No, that curmudgeon with a penchant for abruptly ending the night’s festivities with a hearty “Get the f**k out!” is Bert Kirchner. He named his place after a deaf, dumb, old man he met on Dominica who would transform from a shuffling ancient to a lithe dancer with pure joy radiating from his gap-toothed smile down to the tips of his barefoot toes any time zouk music was played. He couldn’t hear the music, but he certainly felt it. And his pure happiness in the face of his meager existence was something that always stuck with Bert. Now he spreads happiness his own way — with rum, fresh fish, and zouk playing in the background.