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For some of the most sublime cuts of beef in the city, head to Yakiniku Great, which specializes in kuroge wagyu, which is flown in each day from Japan. Snag a table in the low-key dining room, where each wooden table’s central grill allows you to cook your own meat to your liking.

Founded by five friends who missed the taste of craft beer so decided to brew their own after moving to Seoul, this laid back brewery has become a magnet for beer lovers in Korea’s capital. There’s a location in Hongdae, but the original in Itaewon is still the place to be, where classics like porter and pale ale are served up in a the laid-back, industrial-chic space that also hosts regular concerts, classes, and food and drink workshops. Magpie also offers a small menu that includes pizza considered to be some of the best in Itaewon—just sayin’. 244-1 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

A blend of neo-Gothic and art nouveau, the enchanting Livraria Lello bookshop dates to 1906 and is rumored to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s Hogwarts in Harry Potter.

Certain things in life are simply impossible to adequately capture in a mere photograph. Iguazú Falls is definitely one of them, and above is my best effort to convey the epic expanse of ‘The Devil’s Throat.’ Situated on the border of Brazil and Argentina, the falls are the watery dividing line between the two countries at this exact point. I accessed the falls from the Argentinian side, via Iguazú National Park and took a mini train (the Rainforest Ecological Train, to be exact), some trails, and more than a few catwalks to reach this particular vantage point. Unlike some falls in the US and Canada, in the southern hemisphere you can get dangerously close to the roaring waters of these grand spectacles. The sound is deafening, the spray is enticing, and the visuals are simply amazing. As I stood there, trying to take it all in, all I could do was feel my heart pounding as I stared into the mouth of the devil. Most depictions of Lucifer entail horns, a tail and copious amounts of fire meant to terrify all who are witness to his power. I can assure you, though made of mere cliffs and water, THIS devil could douse any other devil and never look back.

This white tablecloth, fine dining restaurant in the country’s capital. Headed by Chef Alejandra Girón, who trained at Institut Paul Bocuse in France, the menu is informed by her stint in that country, as well as stages and jobs at renowned restaurants in Spain and Australia. Dishes include rabbit, veal, and tongue entrées, and a wine list that’s fairly extensive for this region.

Simplicity reigns at The Charter Oak, the gamechanging restaurant owned by Christopher Kostow (who also helms the kitchen at The Restaurant at Meadowood). The family-style menu by chef Katianna Hong features “elemental” cooking, with dishes that highlight only one or two ingredients at a time. The best representation of this is the crudités, raw vegetables from the restaurant’s farm, served on a bed of crushed ice with a side of fermented soy dip. Another example? Crudo of kanpachi with grilled Rangpur lime and herbs. Most of the menu’s larger dishes are seasonal and prepared in a hearth at the center of the restaurant. Highlights include roasted pork shoulder with spiced molasses and winter squash, and beef rib grilled over cabernet barrels and beets dried over the fire. The most Instagram-worthy part of the meal may be the moment the server explains where to find the silverware—forks, knives, spoons, and napkins are stored in hidden drawers on the side of each table. During warm summer evenings, precede your meal with a few rounds of handcrafted cocktails in the open-air courtyard out front. The happy hour of half-priced beers and $3 shots of Fernet-Branca can’t be beat.

When Torontonians heard that French pastry chef Bertrand Alépée was set to open a patisserie in Parkdale, tongues wagged. While the emerging ’hood had embraced plenty of hot-to-trot restaurants, the idea of locals coughing up $6 for an saccharine work of art was a bit questionable. Thing is, they were wrong. Since The Tempered Chef swung open its doors, a steady flow of sugar keeners has made its mark on the wooden floors. The inviting room sees a communal table up front along with plenty of smaller seating arrangements in a high-ceilinged space. A glass case displays an ever-changing set of rather handsome pastries like the choco citron (pictured), a lemon tart with a layer of milk chocolate ganache topped with meringue. Croissants, croque monsieur and mini quiches are also present, aimed at those seeking out a more lunch-y fare. Turns out, a patisserie was exactly what Parkdale wanted.

There are now 35 locations of Eataly, the massive Italian food hall, around the world, with 18 of them in Italy itself. The New York City one at Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street, which opened in 2010, was the first in the United States (it’s been joined by others in Boston, Chicago, and Los Angeles, as well as by a second outpost in Manhattan, near the World Trade Center site at 101 Liberty Street). For connoisseurs of all things Italian, this is a must-visit—or, more accurately, a must-shop and must-eat stop. Covering more than 50,000 square feet, Eataly NYC Flatiron includes five different restaurants (plus occasional pop-ups) offering opportunities to graze on antipasti, fish, pizza, and other dishes. A popular rooftop beer hall is open all year round (thanks to space heaters and a retractable roof). While you will want to eat your gelato on the spot, there are also a number of stores where you can buy gifts from biscotti to olive oils to take home a little bit of Italy via New York.

Swift streams and waterfalls continue to carve these vertiginous and rugged valleys as they pour into the sea. One of the most stunning wilderness areas on earth, it also contains ancient Hawaiian ruins of graves, temples, house platforms, and terraced fields. The fear factor increases past the initial two-mile path to Hanakāpīʻai Beach (best visited in summertime, as winter swells tend to wash it away). Only experienced hikers in good condition and with proper gear should venture further along the famous 11-mile Kalalau Trail. Check for path and park closures before making plans and don’t forget the $20/night permit to crash at a campsite. However long you trek, stay on the main path and pack out what you brought in.

The longest lines in the city form every day at Café Medina, a haven of Mediterranean-inspired breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch dishes in the Library District. The decor here feels like a minimalist version of 1920s Paris, with aged walls, mismatched light fixtures, and a mosaic entranceway. Equally charming, the eclectic bistro fare ranges from pistachio-rosewater Belgian waffles to halloumi couscous and a harissa burger, spiked with preserved lemon and tucked into a pita with baba ghanoush and two fried eggs. Don’t miss the blistered flatbread, ideally paired with the honey-black-pepper mascarpone side. And finish with a lavender latte, a house-made turmeric soda, or a superb craft cocktail. If you don’t want to wait, skirt the crowds by visiting Tuesdays or Wednesdays for lunch, or arriving at 2 p.m. (an hour before last call).

There are a number of spectacular caves to visit in Aruba, including Guadirikiri, Huliba and Fontein, all located in the Arikok National Park.

Fontein is known for its multitude of geometric and zoomorphic (animal) cave drawings, created by Arawak Indians 2000-3500 years years ago. If you look closer, you’ll also find more modern day graffiti, including one from a Dutch Governor, A.J.K Meyer, scratched into the rock in 1830.

The cave has colorful stalactites, rock formations hanging down from the ceiling, and stalagmites, building up from the ground. Nocturnal long nosed and long tongues fruit bats call the cave their home, so don’t be alarmed when they silently flit by. They’re harmless, and don’t forget, you’re a guest in their ‘house’ ; )

Make sure to speak with the park rangers stationed at the entrance, they are knowledgeable and eager to share Fontein’s ancient, and fascinating history.

>>>Warm thanks to the Aruba Tourism Authority for a wonderful welcome to ‘One Happy Island’ and to my lovely new friends at the Boardwalk Small Hotel Aruba for accommodation in one of their amazing casitas!

Named after the flat-topped mountain that rises 131 meters behind the Port of Refuge, Mount Talau National Park was established in 1995 to preserve the local rain forest. In the park, just a couple of kilometers from Neiafu, a short trail passes endangered tree and plant species and, often, many area birds and reptiles. There are several more marked trails leading up to lookouts (which often have safety ropes for slippery weather). The spectacular views from the mountain sweep across the Port of Refuge, the Vaipua Inlet and Neiafu.

Thailand has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and this itinerary takes you to the best of the best.

On this Unpacked Mini, we go behind the scenes to discover how a routine trip to Guangzhou, China, transformed three generations of one writer’s family.