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Even placards and guidebooks don’t reveal everything about the most-visited tourist spot in India

With 24 hours’ notice, AFAR sent writer Tom Rachman to Vienna where, on his quest to discover 
the soul of the Austrian capital, he 
stumbled upon the city’s 
darker side.

A letter from the founder.

Here’s what happened when the lure of clear streams, endless skies, and elusive fish brought two best friends to the ends of the earth.

Seeking the wonderfully disorienting effect of travel, writer Taras Grescoe ventures to Budapest, where bewilderment ensues.

The Spirit of Istanbul

A weekend trip to visit Berlin offers just enough time to explore some of the city’s history and cultural hotspots, and, of course, tuck into some German cuisine and street food (hello currywurst). If it’s a meet the locals sort of weekend you’re after, pick a few neighborhoods to focus on: perhaps the restaurants, street art, and galleries of Mitte and Friedrichshain? Don’t miss the East Side Gallery. And, on Sunday, Prenzlauer Berg for its open air flea market. A perfect weekend indeed.

Some friends had been hiking in Austria in May and had to cut the trip short because of an unexpected blizzard. After all day hiking in the snow and not prepared for it, we came to a hut that was open to guests run by a woman named Helga. Helga didn’t speak a word of English, but she served us some delicious Mittenwald beer, that tasted like the best in the world. So a few days later, we decided we had to go to the source of this magical elixir, the town of Mittenwald in Bavaria. We went to the brewery and met the proprietors of the restaurant associated with the brewery, Postkeller, where we thought we would have a couple of tastes. Instead, it turned into an all-day affair. We tested the many different varieties of Mittenwald, and our hosts cooked up a roast for us, and we had a great evening of laughs with them.

Legend has it that the Leutaschklamm is home to ghosts and goblins who live deep down in the gorge. Have a look for yourself, but even if you don’t find any, the scenic panoramic walkway on high bridges over roaring waters won’t leave you disappointed. The trail is more or less flat, and suitable for everyone capable of walking a couple of miles. If you’re feeling extra energetic you can walk the entire 7.5 mile trail.

You might think of Vienna’s Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery) as a Mittteleuropa Walk of Fame. Some of the city’s most important figures are buried in this graveyard that opened in 1874, from Beethoven (his remains were moved here in 1888) to 1980s pop star Falco, with Brahms, Schubert, and Schoenberg in between. The cemetery, which measures almost one and a half square miles, has a section for Austria‘s presidents, and another for Sephardic Jews who came from the Ottoman Empire—the elaborate Alhambra-style Elias family mausoleum is especially impressive. Thanks to shady groves of maple and ash and a beautiful church constructed in the early-20th-century Jugendstil style, it is worth the effort to travel to Simmering, a neighborhood southeast of the city center—even if only for the bucolic setting.

In a sprawling white building on a bustling square in Berlin’s Mitte district, the Circus Hotel offers crisp design and easygoing service at shockingly affordable prices. The owners also run a popular hostel across the street. In 64 airy rooms, suites, and apartments, dark oak floors and funky splashes of red, mint, and hot pink accent a minimalist aesthetic. Offbeat amenities include access to the house Smart car, Segway scooters, bikes, and local cell phones. Make sure you ask for a room on the courtyard: Rooms facing the street can be noisy because of the rattling trams outside.

This appeared in the May/June 2010 issue.

Run by the famous Spanish shoe brand, Casa Camper is a stylish boutique hotel neatly situated in the middle of Mitte’s hip fashion and culture district. Designed by Jordi Tió and Fernando Amat—the founder of Barcelona’s iconic design store Vinçon—the devilishly good-looking interior is defined by clean lines and striking furniture set against rust-red walls. The rooms are deliberately minimal, with wooden floors and slick designer furnishings, but are decidedly comfortable and include eco-friendly touches such as water-recycling showers. Instead of an in-room minibar concept, the hotel offers a 24-hour buffet that is free for guests. Plus, the hotel’s prime location ensures easy access to the swanky drinking, dining, and shopping options in the neighborhood.

If you’re looking for a place reminiscent of the smoke-filled cafés of bohemian Paris, look no further than Cafe Cinema. Sitting alongside a popular tourist route in Hackescher Markt, the small, hole-in-the-wall cafe attracts both tourists and locals. In the evenings it’s a great spot for a beer and interesting conversations, and the daytime sees visitors working quietly and enjoying coffee. In summertime, the alleyway nearby has picnic tables, which make a great spot for people watching. The alternative atmosphere can be hard to find in Berlin Mitte, and this is one of the coolest spots in the area.

Looming over one of central Berlin’s most vibrant intersections, this restored Bauhaus building with its distinctive 1920s curved facade was transformed in 2010 into the Berlin outpost of the glamorous Soho House hotel and private members brand. The building has heaps of history, having started as a Jewish-owned department store before being taken over by the Nazis and then occupied by the Communist regime for archival purposes.

Today, it’s one of Mitte’s foremost havens of hip, offering quirkily decorated rooms that mix vintage with contemporary design tropes—think Marshall speakers and old-school record players, floral armchairs, and art deco bathtubs. The lofts are even more astonishing, both for their capacious size and their industrial-chic aesthetic—some come with grand pianos and foosball tables. The hotel also has a rooftop pool and adjacent bar with views of Alexanderplatz, a concept retail area, a private cinema and library room with a bar that hosts occasional events open to the public, an in-house restaurant, and a Cowshed spa that’s a popular destination in its own right.

This is one of the most hectic and lively courtyards in Berlin. Located in Mitte, it is named after the Hackeschen Market, which is across the street. As in many of Berlin’s courtyards, the building complex around it consists of offices, businesses, factories, and apartment buildings. In this specific one sits a well-known movie theater, which makes it even busier. As this was the first courtyard and quite successful, today there are eight other courtyards between Rosenthal and the Sophienstraße. All around the courtyards, you’ll find numerous bars, restaurants, and clubs. The area has become one of the coolest places to go at night.