With nearly 30 local purveyors, the just-opened Liberty Public Market is a microcosm of San Diego’s food world⎯and its sole restaurant, Mess Hall, is a microcosm of the market. Every day, chef Tim Kolanko riffs on whatever market ingredient catches his eye. Say, sea trout. Tim served a potato pancake inspired by the ones his Polish grandmother used to make, topped with a crudo made with salmon belly from seafood vendor FishBone. “But when we went back the next day to get more salmon,” Tim says, “Dan Nattrass, our fishmonger, showed me these beautiful, sustainable sea trout—a rare thing to find.” Hello, sea trout crudo. His grandmother served the cakes with sour cream, but at Mess Hall, Tim upgrades the dish using crème fraîche, trout roe, and a lemon purée. “There’s a lot in one bite,” he says. This appeared in the June/July 2016 issue.