Courtsy of Barge Lady Cruises
Courtesy of Barge Lady Cruises
Barge cruises through the wine regions of France and other Europen countrysides give travelers a chance to savor life—and the destination—in the slow lane.
A growing number of travelers are choosing tranquil, intimate, historic canal barges over big boat river cruising. Wondering where to begin? We sat down with Stephanie Sack, a barge cruise expert, for her tips on how to find the right one for you.
Compared to urban vacations, which can rush through countries at the pace of an Instagram scroll, a European canal cruise is the definition of slow travel. The historic barges keep to a leisurely pace of four miles an hour, following man-made canals dug for transporting everything from wine casks to royal entourages. With just a handful of cabins, most boats offer many of the luxury perks of a boutique hotel and become a moving home base for a week of exploring some of the continent’s most unspoiled landscapes.
It’s no wonder barge trips are starting to become a popular alternative to river cruises. But with dozens of options in areas as different as the Scottish Highlands and the Loire Valley, choosing your first canal cruise can be bewildering. Enter Chicago-based Stephanie Sack, a self-described “barge cruise matchmaker,” who found her calling pairing would-be cruisers with the right canal, captain, and crew through Barge Lady Cruises, a company founded by Sack’s mother in 1985.
First, she says, it’s important to decide whether canal cruising is the right choice at all. Topped with flat roofs that double as sun decks, long, narrow canal barges were designed more for shipping than speed. “You could drive in an hour the entire route that a barge cruises in a week,” Sack explains. If you’re hoping to cover lots of ground or tick off a list of specific sites, canal cruising might not be for you. “It’s really [about] the pace, the intimacy—it’s the relaxation that comes from the travel being so slow by design.”
Before you start comparing boats and booking companies, you’ll need to decide on a region to cruise. The most popular and long-standing destination for barge cruises is France, where canals wind among towering chateaux, vineyards, and rural landscapes throughout the country. It’s a favorite for a reason. If wine is what makes packing your bags worthwhile, Sack says that France has the oenophile dream on lock—a cruise past southern Burgundy’s UNESCO-listed vineyards is her top recommendation for a week of wine tasting.
World-class cycling and deep history are other draws in France. She sends avid cyclists to the Upper Loire, where hundreds of miles of bike trails wrap around canals just an afternoon’s drive from Paris; you can spend the day on two wheels, then meet up with the barge in time for dinner. For travelers who spend their transatlantic flights buried in history books, she recommends the 17th-century Canal du Midi in southern France, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a jumping-off place for visiting medieval castles and villages in the wine region of Languedoc-Roussillon.Venice and Mantua on a route that’s lined with vineyards and Renaissance palaces, so Sack recommends an Italian barge for a week of powerful sunshine quenched by equally powerful reds.
With your destination settled, it’s time to decide whether to book a cabin or the entire boat; if you can convince a few friends to join you, a private cruise is the same price as a single room (around 70 percent of Sack’s customers choose to reserve their own boat).
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Another option for budget-conscious cruisers, says Sack, is a boat with half-board. Because the crew won’t prepare every single meal, you’ll save on the booking and enjoy a little more freedom—whether you use it for canal-side picnics or Michelin-starred restaurants is between you and your wallet.
(It is possible to rent a canal boat without crew and drive it yourself—these vessels are usually compact motorboats or the slender narrowboats that ply canals in the United Kingdom. But you won’t get the same kind of luxury experience or access to local knowledge on a self-drive cruise that you do on a hotel barge cruise.)
Even as barge cruising grows, it remains a small world. There are fewer than 100 barge canal cruises operating, and the most popular routes are booked far in advance. For groups of six or more, Sack suggests booking a year ahead, but says that smaller parties are generally safe if they start looking eight months before their travel dates. A handful of companies handle most bookings on European canals, either providing their own boats or coordinating with owner-operated barges. Here’s where to start:
Booking a European barge cruise might take some planning, but that investment pays off with a vacation that’s blissfully free of hotel reservations and train schedules. By the time you’re floating through Europe with wine glass in hand—swap in a bike helmet or history book as required—you’ll have no more reviews left to read, no tables to book, and no plans to make. All you’ll need to do is slow down to the stately pace of barge life.
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