Block Island has always been a favored destination for those who love a touch of intrigue. The tiny teardrop-shaped land mass 12 miles off the coast of mainland Rhode Island has a long and storied history with marauders wading ashore, the most famous being Captain Kidd, a privateer turned pirate who visited in 1699 in the days before his capture. He would eventually be executed in London, but not before he told the world he had left behind some buried treasure. While a piece of his fortune was found off the coast of Madagascar, the rest of it could be anywhere, even here on the island. While you’re unlikely to discover his gold, there are some modern-day treasures to discover: Eben Horton’s glass floats.
Horton is no marauder, privateer, or pirate. Rather, he’s a mild-mannered and downright friendly glassblower from Newport, just across the Block Island Sound. He didn’t mean to become a celebrity. But when he inherited a box of cracked paperweights from his mentor that were destined for a landfill, everything changed. “I filled a backpack full of these things and I hid them all along the beach,” Horton said of his first go-around with trash-turned-treasure in the late ‘90s. “And I just thought, This is gonna make some people really happy.”
Each of Eben Horton’s glass floats is hand-blown.
Courtesy of Glass Float Project
That simple act of gifting something beautiful for free, with no strings attached and no Instagram tag required, planted the seed of what would become the Glass Float Project, a Block Island tradition that officially began in 2011.
Every year, starting in late May or early June, Horton and a crew of volunteers hide hundreds—around 550—of hand-blown glass orbs made by Horton across the island, tucked beneath beach grass, nestled into stone crannies, occasionally even perched in trees along the trails. The only rule is they must be hidden in publicly accessible places, within a foot or so of a trail, so seekers don’t have to put themselves in peril to find one. (Don’t worry about heading out to the island on a particular date. You can still find orbs all summer—and even winter—long.)
The orbs, Horton explained, are modeled after Japanese fishing net floats that can break free and bob and glisten in the water. Each is about the size of a baseball, around three inches in diameter, and is signed, dated, and numbered, and is free to anyone lucky enough to stumble across it—though finding them can be a challenge. According to Horton, there hasn’t been a single year in which every float is found. “My joke is that archaeologists will find these,” he said with a laugh.
Since its inception, the project has taken on a life of its own. Even Horton doesn’t know where many of the floats end up, only that the “hiders” focus their efforts on the Greenway trails, a network of public hiking and walking paths crisscrossing the entire island, and other public-access land. “Sometimes someone will come into my gallery and ask for a clue,” he said of his permanent workshop, which he runs with his wife, artist Jennifer Nauck, on the mainland in the town of Wakefield. Here, you’ll find their other works, including fine art, jewelry, and Nauck’s famed (and adorable) glass bees, which have a cult following in their own right. You’ll even find a version of the Block Island orbs for sale. “And I go, ‘Nope, I don’t even know where they are.’”
It’s a summertime hunt that has become a ritual for thousands of fans from all over the world. While Lady Gaga has her “little monsters” and Taylor has her “Swifties,” Horton has his “ORBivors,” hungry to find their next little glass goodie. Luckily, it’s a friendly fanbase with a 20,000-person Facebook page dedicated to sharing successes and tips on finding orbs.
“Some people haven’t found one and they’ve looked every year,” Horton said. “So when they do, it’s like walking across the desert and finding water.”
It’s a project that even the locals love. “It’s magical. It’s a scavenger hunt,” Becca Zendt, one-half of the sister duo behind the Darius Inn, shared, adding that it’s brought a new kind of energy to the island. “I found my first one two years ago, in a tree in the Enchanted Forest [in Nathan Mott Park]. It was catching the sun in a perfect way. It felt like it found me.”
Becca and her sister Christy took over the Darius just as the Glass Float Project made its way to the island all those years ago. Their story, too, was like finding a little piece of magic. The 19th-century home, a short stroll from the ferry landing, had fallen into disrepair before the sisters took it on in 2013, renovating the property to bring in their colorful style and making it feel more akin to visiting family than staying with a stranger.
“We only have 12 rooms,” Christy said. “And so many of them are taken up by the same people every year.”
Of course, the sisters say, Block Island has changed since they’ve called it home, becoming a bit more “upscale,” as more and more people uncover its magic. “But the people still come for the same reasons. They want something different than Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket,” Becca said. They want the rugged, unfiltered, and wild. And travelers can still find it by hiking the Clayhead Trail, biking to Black Rock Beach, or walking down the steps of the 200-foot-tall Mohegan Bluffs for a secluded day at the beach.
Even with new hotels, faster ferries, and a slew of visitors seeking their own tiny piece of artistic bounty, Block Island remains a place to slow down. A place where there are no stoplights and where the speed limit never goes above 25. (Most of the transportation is by bike anyway, so good luck hitting that top speed.)
“Even if you’re only here for one night, just going out to dinner, going for a walk, and getting back on the ferry, you feel relaxed,” Christy promised. And whether you find a float or not, you’ll find something—be it stillness, adventure, or a new memory. Luckily, Horton will keep adding new floats for people to find. “It’s important to so many people,” he said, “so [we] keep doing it.”
Block Island Beach House has scenic ocean views.
Courtesy of Block Island Beach House
Where to stay
The Darius Inn
The Darius is a bright, bohemian-style inn known for its community feel. If you want in, you’d better book early, as loyalists tend to reserve their favorite rooms a year in advance.
Block Island Beach House
This beachfront hotel is one of the newer, splashier spots on the island, offering easy access to the sand and Old Harbor. Rooms are breezy and beachy, and its on-site restaurant and bar offer delicious fare like pan-seared salmon and edamame succotash, or a creamy mac-and-cheese for guests and hungry visitors alike.
The Atlantic Inn
Perched on a hilltop, the Atlantic Inn has some of the best views of the ocean on Block Island. The Victorian-era building offers classic New England charm, as do its expansive lawns. Each room is filled with antiques, giving it a peaceful, timeless appeal.
Persephone’s Kitchen is a local favorite, serving baked goods and breakfast and lunch dishes.
Courtesy of Persephone’s Kitchen
Where to eat
The Old Post Office Bagel Shop
Just as the name implies, this bagel shop is located in the island’s former post office and has been an institution since Allison and Bill Padien opened their doors in 1998. Locals line up early for breakfast sandwiches and fresh coffee, so go ahead and join them.
Persephone’s Kitchen
This laid-back café is a must for those who adore fresh, flavorful bakery goods, as well as grain bowls, smoothies, and cookies. The menu is perfect for dining in or for takeaway to bring with you as you hit the trails and beaches to look for your orb.
The Oar
It’s almost illegal to come to Block Island without stopping in at the Oar for both its famous harbor views and a tasty frozen mudslide. Nab a picnic table, a drink, and watch the sun go down.
Ballard’s
Those looking for a fully festive daytime atmosphere can find it right on the beach at Ballard’s. Here, you’ll get live music, a feisty crowd, and quintessential summer fun, along with plenty of fruity cocktails with tiny umbrellas.
Dead Eye Dick’s
Find New England favorites like lobster rolls, calamari, and a fully stocked raw bar at this New Harbor spot, open for both lunch and dinner. Yes, it also serves great cocktails and is super casual.
How to get there
From Narragansett, Rhode Island, hop aboard either the traditional (55-minute) or high-speed (30-minute) ferry. (Note: If you want to bring your car, you’ll have to take the traditional ferry, but as a Rhode Islander, I cannot stress enough that if you have the ability to bike, this is the way to go.) Reservations are strongly recommended, especially during peak seasons.
Travelers can also get to Block Island from Long Island via the Viking Fleet’s high-speed ferry, which runs seasonally from Montauk and takes about an hour. There are also ferry options from New London, Connecticut, and Newport, Rhode Island.
