I had been walking for about an hour on a trail in Alberta’s Kananaskis Country when I started to spot them: bright gold treetops dotting the thick green forest. By the time I reached glacier-carved Chester Lake, dozens of them were ringing the shoreline, seemingly twice as large thanks to their reflections in the blue-green water.
These are Alberta’s larches, a unique species of deciduous pine whose needles change color in the autumn and drop off for the winter. And, for a few brilliant weeks each September and October, they turn every hour in the Canadian Rockies into golden hour.
This year, the fall foliage display peaked at the end of September, but as the phenomenon starts to catch the attention of international travelers, it’s worth preparing early to catch a glimpse of those fleeting yellow larches. Here’s a guide to seeing them.
Where to see larches
“Larches are found in many areas of Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay national parks, generally at elevations around 2,000 meters [6,500 feet] and above, making hiking the best way to see them,” says Ian Parker, a Parks Canada promotions officer who works with the Lake Louise Yoho Kootenay Field Unit.
Banff National Park and Kananaskis Country, a vast, protected wilderness area of mountains, lakes, and trails, are some of the best regions for larch hikes. The trails fill up quickly, so start your day around dawn or choose a shorter hike and wait until afternoon to let the crowds dissipate. Peter Lougheed (home of Chester Lake) and Elbow-Sheep Wildland provincial parks in Kananaskis Country are typically less crowded than Banff and easier to access with your own vehicle.
Hikers to Larch Valley will pass by tree-lined creeks and the remote, scenic Minnestimma Lake.
Courtesy of Travel Alberta
While Banff is busier, the rewards for larch-hunting hikers are great. Moraine Lake is one of Canada’s most famous scenic spots year-round, but particularly in the autumn, and from the glacial lake there’s a 2.7-mile hike to the appropriately named Larch Valley. There is no personal vehicle access to Moraine Lake, so be sure to reserve a spot on a Parks Canada shuttle or a private guided tour with an operator such as Rocky Mountain Adventures or Roam Your Own.
Timing and crowds aren’t the only challenges for larch seekers. In the fall, the Canadian Rockies’ rugged weather can range from warm and pleasant to windy and snowy. “Visitors should choose trails that match their abilities, bring appropriate clothing and equipment, and be prepared to change their plans based on weather, trail conditions, or visitor volumes,” Parker says.
Where to stay
If you’re headed to Alberta for larch season, the mountain town of Canmore, on the border of Kananaskis Country and 15 miles from Banff, makes for a good home base. The Malcolm Hotel, a Scottish-inspired mountain lodge, overlooks two creeks and is only a five-minute walk into the center of town, where there’s a wide selection of restaurants and shops. For an upscale meal featuring hyper-local cuisine, check out Sauvage; for something more laid-back, opt for the Grizzly Paw Pub, the town’s original craft brewery, and its (literally) elevated restaurant, Tank310. The mountain views from the dining room are particularly beautiful during larch season.
