"Want to go to the coziest pub in Ireland?" the waiter of the hotel restaurant I was eating at said when I asked where there was a good place to get a drink on Achill Island, located in County Mayo on the west coast of Ireland. He'd said three of my favorite words in one sentence: "cozy," "pub," and "Ireland." I was sold. Soon enough my traveling companion and I were hoisting pints of black, foamy Guinness by the fireplace in Lynott's an ancient stone pub with four tables. The night I turned up, there was a traditional music session happening and there were most musicians than patrons.