The Comprehensive Insider’s Guide to Northern California Wine Country

Farm-to-table dining meets Eastern philosophy and culture at this unparalleled Michelin-starred restaurant and inn in downtown Healdsburg. The 52-seat restaurant prides itself on creating food that is as much about ancient Japanese technique as it is about fresh ingredients. Case in point: Chef Kyle Connaughton and his wife, Katina, run their own farm, and they have developed a system by which they manage 72 distinct microseasons to harvest the ripest items at any given time. Meals at SingleThread are served kaiseki-style. Without question, the most impressive course is the first one—a spread of tiny bites served in small plates and stand-alone spoons that have been laid out on a moss-covered stump. Kyle, who studied in Japan, also specializes in donabe, or clay pot cooking, and these soul-warming courses are especially memorable. Upstairs from the restaurant, SingleThread runs a five-room inn; accommodations are spacious and modern in all the right ways, with giant soaking tubs and fixtures that look like works of art. Guests at the inn enjoy a fridge stocked with artisanal products from around Sonoma county, as well as a sumptuous breakfast.

With midcentury modern architecture and vinyl on the turntable, Ashes & Diamonds is not your typical Napa winery. Yet for Kashy Khaledi, the son of Darioush Khaledi (the man behind Darioush Winery), the new digs make perfect sense. The younger Khaledi cut his teeth for the past decade in the music business, with a job at Capitol Records. In 2016, when he decided to make the leap back into the family business of wine, he knew he was going to do things differently. To oversee the design of the winery, he enlisted celebrated Los Angeles architect Barbara Bestor, who conceived of the building’s zigzag roofline, sunshine-yellow doors, and an eclectic interior of Saarinen chairs and North African rugs. To design the bottles’ labels, Khaledi hired Brian Roettinger, who famously designed the album cover for Jay-Z’s Magna Carta Holy Grail. Other moves, such as bringing on Steve Matthiasson and Diana Snowden Seysses as consulting winemakers to recreate the authentic experience of Napa wine from the 1960s, were bold, too. Tastings (some of which include food pairings) are held in the lounge, at the tasting bar, or on an expansive outdoor patio overlooking the vineyards. The “A&D Experience” features an elaborate five-course meal.

Napa Valley Paddle (NVP) rents kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and inflatable paddleboards by the hour, day, and weekend. But the company—base on the Main Street Dock at Riverfront Plaza—also offers guided tours that offer a completely different perspective on a part of wine country that so many visitors see only by land. There are four such trips, including a two-hour paddle around the Oxbow River in downtown Napa; a four-hour fishing excursion from downtown Napa to the top of San Pablo Bay; and a day-long adventure through the marshlands south of Napa and the San Pablo Bay National Wildlife Refuge (both are prime spots for bird-watching). Tours include all equipment (including a personal flotation device and a waterproof bag to keep wallets and cell phones dry), as well as a brief safety lesson. NVP can also orchestrate casual “unguided” tours of downtown, complete with maps and gourmet picnic lunches, or family-friendly excursions on inflatable stand-up paddleboards that are big enough for six paddlers at once. All tours and rentals are subject to weather conditions, so it pays to call ahead.

As the name suggests, Ramen Gaijin is all about the noodles. Sure, the menu features small-plate, izakaya-style dishes such as briny Miyagi oysters, pork-shoulder gyoza, rabbit confit fried rice, and tako salad, but the real star of the show is the ramen. Chefs and co-owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman make rye, sapporo, and soba noodles in-house, and broths are rich and flavorful. One of the favorite options, the Spicy Tan Tan, features pork belly, wood ear mushrooms, spicy ground pork, charred cabbage, and a six-minute egg. The Tonkatsu includes bone marrow in the broth, giving it a savory finish that warms you from the inside. Vegetarian options come with miso broth and include fried tofu and soy-glazed squash. Whichever noodle dish you choose, add an order of house-made kimchi to add a tart contrast. Pro tip: If you’re dining with a friend, order the two-person Hitodama punch bowl, which mixes several rums with apricot, lime, and pomegranate juices.

Calistoga Ranch was damaged in the Glass Fire of 2020. They are closed indefinitely.

Calistoga Ranch sits in a private canyon of the ridge that makes up the eastern side of the Napa Valley. From this secluded spot, the entire valley floor unfolds. On windy nights, you might spot hawks surfing thermal winds just outside your balcony. But the views aren’t the only selling points of this ultra-luxurious 157-acre resort. Instead of traditional rooms, Calistoga Ranch is composed of 50 freestanding one- and two-bedroom guest lodges. Each upscale-yet-approachable lodge resembles a wooden cabin, with sweet-smelling cedar, indoor and outdoor showers, and a deck that opens to the mossy forest. The resort’s calendar is packed with activities, including bocce, wine-blending classes, and painting and photography workshops. Last year, the resort started offering guests a formal guided hike to Davis Estates Winery with a picnic lunch along the way. The pool area has earned numerous awards for its laid-back design. The on-site spa specializes in hydrotherapy with soaking treatments, while the property’s largest restaurant, dubbed The Lakehouse, overlooks Lake Lommel and serves a host of dishes made of all local produce. Try the halibut with piperade, carrot, fennel, and scallops.

The best time to hit the mineral-fed pools at Indian Springs is just before closing, right around 9:30 p.m. Grab a float noodle, place it behind your neck, float on your back in the 102-degree water, and look up at the stars. No matter how cold the air might be, you will immediately relax. The Calistoga resort has been offering guests a similar experience for more than 150 years, though recent renovations have modernized the offerings and brought a new level of luxury and sophistication. The main attractions are the pools: one for all ages and another only for adults. Elsewhere on the property, an expansive spa offers massages and mud treatments; a restaurant—dubbed Sam’s Social Club—serves healthy California cuisine along with house-brewed beer. Accommodations vary widely, ranging from two-room cabins and expansive one-bedroom suites to multi-room bungalows and full-scale houses. Once you’ve had your fill of shuffleboard and bocce, walk into downtown Calistoga to shop at the local boutiques, or take the short trail to the top of the hill for a stellar view of the north end of the Napa Valley. Don’t miss: Perhaps the most spiritual part of the Indian Springs experience is the Wishing Tree in front of the spa. Write your wish on a card and tie it to the tree with the hundreds of others already there.

Wine, as they say, belongs at the table. Yet most tasting rooms offer only the wine. For a richer experience, seek out wineries that offer food pairings or, better yet, an entire meal. At Robert Sinskey winery, cookbook author and Chef Maria Helm Sinskey pairs bites made with ingredients from their garden with the new releases of Pinot Noir and the excellent Abraxas, a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer. Round Pond Estate takes it a step further — the four-course lunch served on the terrace uses all biodynamically farmed produce, vinegar and honey from the estate as well as olive oil that is crushed by stone just a stone’s throw from the winery.

Yes, the Hess Collection in Napa makes wine and sells it under the same name. But really, the brand is about something equally wonderful in entirely different ways: modern art. Owner and entrepreneur Donald Hess began collecting art in the 1960s, and the collection on display at the Mount Veeder winery and tasting room represents a small portion of the pieces he’s amassed since then. The three-story gallery is open to the public for free and displays work from artists Franz Gertsch, Francis Bacon, Leopold Maler, and others. Despite the high caliber of work on display, the Hess Collection gallery is relaxed and without pretense. Visitors can take self-guided strolls through the collection or sign up for a formal docent-led tour. This latter option provides guests with insider information about the art, and follows the tour with a private tasting of Hess Collection wine. Housed in a circa-1903 stone winery originally constructed by Colonel Theodore Gier, the building evokes the grandeur of yesteryear—especially in summer, when ivy covers the stone walls of the gallery.

The Culinary Institute of America opened in the former Copia building in 2017, and, in doing so, resuscitated a vision of a foodie attraction in downtown Napa that celebrates the valley’s long and colorful epicurean history. The facility, originally built by the Mondavi family as a food and wine center, now operates as a cooking school and gastrohub, complete with classes, tasting experiences, panel discussions, and art collections. There’s also a restaurant where visitors can dine on food prepared by CIA student chefs-in-training, and a store that rivals Sur La Table for its selection of kitchenware. In spring and summer, be sure to stroll the culinary gardens, which are so large they stretch across First Street.

Grays and greens abound in this public conservation tract in the tiny town of Guerneville along the Russian River. The area predates logging in the northern part of the state, so the preserve is home to some of the oldest and tallest trees in Sonoma County—one, the Parson Jones Tree, is more than 310 feet tall. Not coincidentally, the park is also a popular place for weddings; go on a weekend and you’re practically guaranteed to see one. As far as public parks are concerned, Armstrong Redwoods is more accessible than most. The main sections of the reserve are relatively flat, and there are ample picnic areas for hikers of all abilities. There’s also a self-guided nature trail just behind the visitor center. On foggy summer mornings, the damp pathways inside Armstrong are great places to spot banana slugs—just one of a few attributes that makes the park kid friendly. With more than 30 miles of trails, the park offers plenty of longer hiking or running options, too. When you’ve had your fill of nature, head down the hill to downtown Guerneville for an ice cream cone at Nimble & Finn’s, inside the Guerneville Bank Club.

Healdsburg SHED dubs itself a “modern grange,” and the name is both original and apt. In the olden days, the grange was where a farming community gathered to share experiences and meals. Today, in downtown Healdsburg, SHED serves a similar role. Part of the experience revolves around furnishings—the metal barn-like structure is a shop that sells high-end goods for the home, kitchen, and garden. The bulk of it, however, is about food. A produce department sells fruits, vegetables, and flowers from organic farms within a 10-mile radius (including Home Farm, which belongs to SHED owners Doug Lipton and Cindy Daniel). A mill grinds grain into flour. A larder stores cheese and charcuterie from local artisans. There’s also a coffee bar, which uses beans from Flying Goat Coffee, and a fermentation bar, which brews its own kombucha. The main attraction is the SHED Café, which, under the direction of Michelin star-winning chef Perry Hoffman, serves dishes that spotlight local growers. Menus here change daily but might include a marinated kohlrabi salad with sunflower seeds, or Liberty Farms duck leg with carrot puree. SHED offers regular classes during which participants can learn how do everything from pickle vegetables to winterize crops.

Peanuts characters are alive and well at this Santa Rosa institution, which celebrates the life and legacy of Snoopy creator Charles M. Schulz. The museum was founded in 2002 by Jean Schulz, the cartoonist’s widow, and today it houses the largest collection of original Peanuts artwork in the world. Permanent exhibits include a look at some of Schulz’s original comic strips, as well as a recreation of his art studio. There’s also a tile mural composed of 3,588 different comic strips. Temporary exhibits change throughout the year. The museum also has an outdoor area with sculptures that depict iconic moments from the cartoons (such as Charlie Brown with a metal kite stuck in a real tree) and a theater that screens documentaries on a loop. If you’re traveling with children, the best part of the museum is the laid-back-but-hands-on education room, where docents help visitors learn how to draw specific characters. Also worth exploring with kids: the Redwood Empire Ice Rink, located across the street. Schulz loved skating at the rink, which is open to the public. Skate rentals are available, and a café serves breakfast and lunch daily.

With dark walls, natural wood accents, and red curtains in front of the elevators, the trend-setting Andaz hotel feels like more of a scene than any other property in downtown Napa. In the center of downtown Napa, the hotel is mere steps from restaurants, shops, and arguably Napa’s best pub: the Norman Rose Tavern. On check-in, all guests over 21 receive a complimentary glass of red or white wine. The swanky vibe continues into the 141 guest rooms, where hardwood hickory floors complement white marble bathrooms and midcentury modern furniture. The most convivial space in the hotel is the Mercantile Terrace, a second-story roof deck with a full bar menu and fire pits, a favorite of couples and business travelers alike. The lounge is operated by Mercantile Social, the restaurant in the lobby that serves small-plate food items and cocktails; it also books live acoustic music sets a few nights a week. (And Mercantile Social sponsors free wine tastings daily.) If you haven’t had enough wine, fear not—on site are two tasting rooms from the wine empire built by Napa native John Anthony Truchard: John Anthony and JaM Cellars.

Pairings are everything at Ram’s Gate, one of the first wineries on the drive to wine country from San Francisco. First is the combination of sights: the wonders of architect Howard Backen’s open-concept tasting room in a refurbished barn and the panoramic vistas of Carneros and San Pablo Bay. Next is the marriage of wine and food—winemaker Jeff Gaffner’s single-vineyard designate chardonnays and pinot noirs matched perfectly with seasonal small bites from executive chef Taylr Benham Cuneo. The most popular tasting is called “Palate Play,” which marries five wines with five dishes from the kitchen. For a truly unparalleled afternoon, book the three-hour Vineyard Table experience, an immersion for four to 10 people that includes a glass of bubbly, a guided tour of the winery and on-site gardens, and a custom-designed meal with wine pairings served at a table in the vineyard. There are other, less involved ways to experience Ram’s Gate: seated wine tastings, stand-alone site tours, and picnics down by the pond. Whatever your fancy, just be sure to make a reservation before you go.

This small-production and boutique winery near downtown Sonoma has achieved cult status in recent years for the exclusivity of the experiences that owners (and brothers) Andrew and Adam Mariani have put together. Standard tastings run about 90 minutes and include four current-release wines paired with four food courses served family-style. On sunny days, the tastings unfold on open-air patios in the shade of big white umbrellas; when the weather is less than stellar, guests are greeted and served in one of the many rooms of the circa-1858 hacienda. Reservations are only accepted by phone and often book out weeks in advance, especially in summer. For an even more intimate experience, reserve seats for one of the many pop-up dinners pairing Scribe wines with multiple courses prepared by visiting chefs who come in for brief residencies. The Marianis espouse organic and biodynamic farming methods and non-interventionist winemaking techniques, which translates into distinct fruit-forward estate wines that rarely overpower. Pro tip: Most visits don’t include tours, but if you book an early morning tasting midweek, you might get the chance to explore the hacienda before the formal visit begins.

The perspective from Gary Farrell Winery, on the outskirts of Healdsburg, is distinctive. Perched high on a ridge above Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley, you get a sense of the fog that makes this growing region so perfect—the clouds trap cool air and moisture down below, enabling pinot noir and chardonnay grapes to mature slowly. This general understanding of the microclimate only enhances your enjoyment of the wine itself, which winemaker Theresa Heredia has made with a deft touch since 2012. After extensive renovations to the main tasting salons in 2017, the visitor experience at Gary Farrell now ranks as one of the best in the county, especially if you reserve a spot on the covered patio outside. All the tastings are seated; the Inspiration Tasting matches six wines with three small bites from chef Didier Ageorges, while the Exploration Tasting includes a tour, five wines, and a cheese-and-nuts plate. Both experiences take about 90 minutes and reservations are suggested. In case you’re wondering, although his name is still on the wine and the winery, Gary Farrell himself—a true pioneer of pinot noir in the Russian River Valley—hasn’t been involved in day-to-day operations since he sold the winery to the Vincraft Group in 2004.

When Japanese video game magnate Kenzo Tsujimoto founded Kenzo Estate winery on Mount George, high above the Napa Valley, he dreamed of eventually opening a restaurant that would serve authentic kaiseki, or multi-course, prix fixe dinners. That dream became reality in late 2016 when the upscale Kenzo Napa opened on Pearl Street in downtown Napa. Today, with a fresh Michelin star under their belts, the culinary team crafts a new menu every other month, importing fish, seaweed, and other ingredients from Japan to make the experience feel as it might in Hokkaido. Flavors are simple and refined—dashi broth tastes like the sea itself, Wagyu beef is as smooth as sashimi. One of the highlights of every menu is the seasonal hassun, which consists of small bites that contrast fish and beef. Another is the sushi course, which differs with every meal. Dessert comes in a trio, often featuring flavors such as matcha, adzuki beans, and candied nuts. All of the dishes are served on custom-fired, hand-painted ceramics from Japan, making every course a work of art. Pairings with Kenzo wines are available and can include sake courses, as well. The atmosphere is intimate in the 25-seat dining room. You might even spot Tsujimoto himself; he and his wife dine at the restaurant at least once a month.

Simplicity reigns at The Charter Oak, the gamechanging restaurant owned by Christopher Kostow (who also helms the kitchen at The Restaurant at Meadowood). The family-style menu by chef Katianna Hong features “elemental” cooking, with dishes that highlight only one or two ingredients at a time. The best representation of this is the crudités, raw vegetables from the restaurant’s farm, served on a bed of crushed ice with a side of fermented soy dip. Another example? Crudo of kanpachi with grilled Rangpur lime and herbs. Most of the menu’s larger dishes are seasonal and prepared in a hearth at the center of the restaurant. Highlights include roasted pork shoulder with spiced molasses and winter squash, and beef rib grilled over cabernet barrels and beets dried over the fire. The most Instagram-worthy part of the meal may be the moment the server explains where to find the silverware—forks, knives, spoons, and napkins are stored in hidden drawers on the side of each table. During warm summer evenings, precede your meal with a few rounds of handcrafted cocktails in the open-air courtyard out front. The happy hour of half-priced beers and $3 shots of Fernet-Branca can’t be beat.

Think of the Oxbow like a high-end shopping mall for food and wine. On the east side of the Napa River, the market brings together a number of epicurean purveyors under one roof (well, technically, it’s three different roofs). The result: Oxbow is a good place to go for a great meal. Food vendors include Hog Island Oyster Co., Kara’s Cupcakes, Ritual Coffee Roasters, and Three Twins Ice Cream. There’s a stand-alone location of Gott’s Roadside, the St. Helena drive-in that first became famous under the name Taylor’s Refresher. Also at the market: outposts of Model Bakery and The Fatted Calf butcher and charcuterie. The Oxbow even houses a handful of merchants, including Hudson’s Greens & Goods; Napa Bookmine; and the Napa Valley Distillery, a local spirits manufacturer that sells tonics and syrups at this location. Pro tip: Swing by the Oxbow on Tuesday nights, when nearly every vendor remains open late for “Locals’ Night.”

Tamales, tamales, and more tamales. This is the story at El Molino Central, arguably Sonoma County’s most authentic Mexican restaurant. Sure, the tiny eatery on Highway 12 in Boyes Hot Springs has a full menu that features a variety of dishes, but the handmade tamales are the reason for the line around the block. While tamales specials pop up every now and again, there are two kinds on the menu at all times: vegetarian tamales with potatoes, cheese, greens, and cream sauce; and Rufina’s pork tamales, which are made with Niman Ranch pork and served with pickled vegetable relish. Both options will change the way you think of corn. Indoor seating is limited, but over the years management has responded to the crowds by building an open-air dining area in the back of the restaurant. Still, you need to go early to get a good spot (and be aware of the seating situation if it’s raining). Another must-order: At breakfast, the Chilaquiles Merida, made with scrambled eggs, stewed beef, habanero salsa, and refried beans. This is the kind of day-starter you’ll remember long after you’ve eaten it.

Just about every aspect of the farm experience comes to life at Long Meadow Ranch’s public-facing facility in St. Helena. The relaxed destination includes an outdoor café, a restaurant named Farmstead, and a general store with wine- and olive oil–tasting bars—as well as an open-air pavilion that is perfect for events. Start mornings at the café, where you can enjoy a cup of Stumptown coffee and freshly baked goods at picnic tables in the shade of a giant blue spruce. Later in the day, hit Farmstead for a lunch of salads made with vegetables grown on-site or for a rack of the restaurant’s signature Heritage St. Louis ribs. (Pro tip: The “brick chicken,” or chicken cooked beneath a brick, can’t be beat.) If you’re visiting in the early afternoon, go to the general store to sample flights of Long Meadow Ranch wines or olive oils or to stock up on such artisan provisions as locally made cheese and salumi. Executive Chef Stephen Barber also hosts regular lunches and dinners at a chef’s table inside the property’s historic Logan Ives House. These meals can include a walk through the culinary garden, followed by a multi-course meal paired with Long Meadow Ranch wines.

The renowned Meadowood Resort mixes the grandeur of a chalet with the amenities of a five-star resort—located in a private canyon within minutes of downtown St. Helena. The shaded, secluded property revolves around 99 rooms, most of which have high and exposed ceilings, private patios or balconies, wainscoted walls, and beds so comfortable you may never want to get up. Other amenities make Meadowood distinctive, too: Many rooms have heated bathroom floors; some also have deep soaking tubs. Elsewhere on the 250-acre property, all guests have access to the on-site spa, which was renovated in 2017; an on-site fitness center; hiking trails; tennis courts; and a daily wine reception. There’s even a croquet lawn—feel free to grab a mallet and hit some balls or sign up to take lessons with the Napa Valley’s only croquet pro. Of course the on-site restaurant, The Restaurant at Meadowood, is another big draw. More casual meals can be ordered from The Grill. Guests are entitled to a complimentary house car for transport into St. Helena or Yountville.

Don’t let the understated name of the restaurant at Meadowood Napa Valley fool you—the place is a temple to fine dining that repeatedly earns three stars from Michelin and is considered one of the best in the world. Executive Chef Christopher Kostow has built the menu around simple dishes that feature local ingredients—in fall, for instance, a dish may include flour from locally foraged acorns; in spring, you might find one that incorporates edible flowers that grow on the property. The standard menu in the dining room has anywhere from nine to 11 courses in all, and wine pairings are available. There’s also a rotunda-style bar where guests can order smaller portions—three-course meals, snacks, and smaller bites. Without question, the best seats in the house are in the kitchen, at a four-seat high-top from which you can interact with chefs as they cook and see preparation unfold at every turn. Every winter the restaurant organizes an innovative event dubbed the 12 Days of Christmas, during which Kostow brings in visiting chefs from around the world to take over the kitchen and prepare food to pair with select wines from renowned vintners. It is one of the most popular Napa Valley culinary events of the year.

This refined 28-acre resort set in the rolling hills between downtown Sonoma and downtown Napa makes guests feel relaxed the moment they check in. The vistas are unobstructed from the resort’s pool areas, and many of the property’s 94 stand-alone cottages with private balconies and six private homes offer views of the open space, too. By day, lawn games are usually underway on the grassy expanse called the Town Square, while in the evenings, a pavilion provides an unparalleled backdrop for stargazing. This is a hotel that values fresh air, as evidenced by the walls in the common areas, which retract to bring the outdoors in. There are other reasons to fall in love with Carneros—namely, the on-site restaurants. The casual Boon Fly Café is famous for breakfasts, with spicy bacon Bloody Mary drinks and tiny made-to-order doughnuts. FARM, on the other hand, is more formal, with menu items such as braised oxtail terrine and smoked Sonoma duck breast. While the hotel offers in-room massages, it will also reopen its spa after a full-scale renovation later in 2018.

A trendsetting Italian restaurant just off the plaza in downtown Healdsburg, Campo Fina is where locals go for a night out. The eatery sponsors an annual bocce tournament on a regulation court in the back, hosts after-hours dance parties on summer weekends, and serves family-style dishes designed for sharing. Menu highlights include burrata cheese with toast points, honey-roasted baby carrots with bread crumbs, and pork-and-beef meatballs in tomato sauce. The restaurant also has a pizza oven, which means you can order calzones and wood-fired pizzas at any time of day or night. In summer, the open-air patio becomes quite a scene, with large dinner parties popping bottle after bottle of prosecco and well-heeled drinkers lining up two and three deep at the bar for Italian cocktails. Above all else, Campo is known best for hospitality; husband-and-wife owners Ari Rosen and Dawnelise Regnery make the rounds to welcome guests and ensure everyone is comfortable.

The country-style NOMAD Heritage Library at Stewart Cellars’ downtown Yountville tasting room has the look and feel of a worldly traveler’s living room: It’s full of books. Rumor has it the titles are tomes that owner Michael Stewart loves and cherishes, and the books are available for guests to read during their time on-site. The Library hosts private and exclusive Heritage Tastings, allowing guests to sample an amazing selection of older-vintage cabernets from consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs. Elsewhere on the premises, the main Tasting Hall features vaulted ceilings, a horseshoe-shaped tasting bar, and floor-to-ceiling doors that open to a private but welcoming courtyard. Wine flights are available in this part of the facility, and they incorporate some of Stewart’s wines from Napa and Sonoma counties. In 2017, Napa’s beloved Southside Café opened a second location at Stewart, serving coffee and California cuisine with a Latin twist. Brunch at this branch of Southside is a big deal; make a reservation ahead of time to start your day with breakfast tostadas, chilaquiles, or a porchetta and potato onion cake.

A labor of love from local brother-and-sister owners Joe and Catherine Bartolomei, this six-acre, farmhouse-style resort in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley underwent an $8 million renovation in 2015, adding nine light-filled rooms with four-poster beds and fireplaces. The Spa at Farmhouse, modeled after a vintage stable, has double-height ceilings and pine doors for each of its four treatment rooms. The thoughtful details will win you over: a glass of wine at check-in, an attentive staff at the Michelin-starred restaurant, and fresh-baked cookies at turndown.

In 1989, Chilean winemakers Augustin and Valeria Huneeus happened upon a 280-acre parcel of land in the heart of Rutherford that had never been planted with vines. The couple jumped and bought it. The result is Quintessa, one of the most spectacular estates in the Napa Valley. Today there are three different ways to experience Quintessa—all visits are privately hosted and tailored specifically for each guest. The Estate Tasting includes a walk to a scenic viewpoint, followed by a seated sampling session in the main winery building. The “Quintessential Quintessa” includes a scenic drive to a private tasting pavilion atop Dragon’s Hill, which offers unrivaled vistas of the entire valley and revolves around narratives about the property, the terroir, and how winemaker Rebekah Wineburg plies her craft. Finally, the third—and most exclusive—option, dubbed the “Collectors Experience,” offers at least three wines from the Huneeus family cellar, poured alongside the most current release. Time the visit right and Augustin Huneeus himself might come out in his signature cowboy hat to say hello and regale your group with stories of his life in South America before he emigrated to the United States.

Visitors to this modern Russian River Valley winery receive a personal greeting and a glass of sparkling wine as they walk up—an appropriate welcome for a relaxed-yet-sophisticated few hours. Most tastings take place in the comfortable and airy Estate House, where all guests enjoy seated tastings under soaring wood ceilings, or outside, on one of three patio terraces overlooking 13 acres of vineyards. Some tastings feature only wine; others incorporate a tour and food and chocolate pairings. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen specializes in bordeaux-style varieties, which means she only makes chardonnay and pinot noir. Year after year, the wine earns high scores from experts, and the winery garners accolades for mixing estate-grown grapes with some of the best fruit the Russian River Valley has to offer from farming families such as the Duttons, Sangiacomos, Martinellis, and Bacigalupis. The highlight of the in-person experience is the view; the Estate House sits atop a hill, offering visitors panoramic vistas of Sonoma County in just about every direction. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mount St. Helena, more than 40 miles east. On gray days, you can look into the fog—the natural feature responsible for keeping temperatures cool and making Russian River wines so good.

Entering the reservations-only Williams Selyem winery may feel like a walking into a wine barrel—and that’s by design. The architects incorporated wood from old redwood wine tanks for a more authentic feel. Wine lovers call the facility the “Palace of Pinot” because it’s where the label’s legendary pinot noir is blended. Williams Selyem is home to the first Wine Enthusiast 100-point pinot noir in North America; the winery also makes chardonnay, zinfandel, and a host of late-harvest wines as well. During a standard seated tasting, visitors sample at least five or six different wines from the cellar; there could be even more if hospitality associates have others open and are willing to share. Most tastings are preceded by a tour of the facility’s cellar, winemaking facilities, and tank rooms, showcasing the components of the architecture that make the place special. Technically, you have to join the winery’s list to schedule a visit, and in busy years it can take up to nine months to have the option to get on the calendar. But if you love the subtlety of bordeaux-style wines, the upscale experience is well worth the wait.

Formerly Las Alcobas, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Napa Valley.

Alila Napa Valley blends old and new in exciting and totally indulgent ways. The center of the 68-room property is a Victorian-style mansion that dates back to 1905; the house has been renovated and modernized and now is home to an intimate bar (try the signature margarita) and the Acacia House restaurant, the latest offering from celebrity chef Chris Cosentino. Back toward the pool, the Spa Alila building was designed to replicate an old barn—with clapboard walls and high ceilings, the vibe is distinctive yet without pretense. Angled around these buildings are stand-alone, three-story structures that house the majority of the guest rooms. The design is sleek and modern, with such thoughtful touches as complimentary minibars and blackout shades. Though compact, the pool is in an exquisite setting with vineyard views; the hotel also has bicycles that guests can use to get around town.


Featuring the same warm, minimalist aesthetic of its sister property in Mexico City, the 68-room Las Alcobas is decked out in natural materials such as oak, jute, and Carrara marble. Every space is built for pleasure, whether you’re sitting beside the fire pit on your balcony (book one of the 10 rooms with an outdoor soaking tub), in the Acacia House restaurant (with a menu by Bay Area chef Chris Cosentino), or in one of the spa’s five treatment rooms.

Part of the Auberge Resorts Collection, Solage is one of Calistoga’s top lodging options; the trio of overnight accommodations, spa, and Michelin-starred restaurant practically force guests to unwind and relax. The experience starts in the 89 studios and suites, which are built like stand-alone cabins and are furnished comfortably. Most have private patios; larger rooms and suites have private backyards (some even have sunken hot tubs); all have in-room showers lined with rocks that feel great on bare feet. With three geothermal pools, the on-site spa is second to none in the Napa Valley. The property’s signature treatment, dubbed the Mudslide, revolves around mineral-enriched mud that guests are encouraged to slather all over themselves and later incorporates a session in a soaking tub and time in a sound chair. Elsewhere on the property, at the Solbar restaurant, chef Massimo Falsini gives farm-fresh cooking a Mediterranean twist. The Monterey black cod in coconut-turmeric brodo is a crowd pleaser. Another must-order: the Macallan 18 butterscotch pudding, made with aged scotch.

If “glamping” is glamorous camping, then Autocamp is glamping to the hilt. The resort, tucked into an old-growth redwood grove outside of Guerneville, consists of 23 luxury Airstreams and 10 luxury tents. Accommodations are outfitted with plush beds and linens, stylish light fixtures, and Malin + Goetz bath products; Airstreams also have spa-inspired bathrooms. Essentially, each tent or trailer feels like its own boutique hotel suite. Everything centers around a midcentury modern–style clubhouse, which has communal spaces, an “adventure concierge” to help coordinate your day’s outings, and a canteen stocked with food and local wines and spirits. The resort is a short walk or bike ride (Autocamp has a fleet of complimentary bicycles) to the Russian River and downtown Guerneville. There’s a meadow for sunbathing and lawn games, and Wi-Fi throughout the property. Autocamp takes on a relaxed and convivial vibe at night, when guests light their fire pits and socialize over s’mores or beer. Pro tips: If you’re looking for a more secluded experience, request an Airstream or tent toward the outskirts of the compound. Some of the Airstreams are pet-friendly too, for a fee. Be sure to reserve those at least a few months in advance.

Sustainability is the name of the game at h2hotel in downtown Healdsburg. The building is certified LEED Gold by the U.S. Green Building Council and has a living roof of grass and succulents that filters rainwater to reduce the impact on Healdsburg’s storm-drain system and neighboring Foss Creek. Inside the 36 rooms, sensors turn off lights, fans, and air conditioners when guests leave, and the bamboo flooring is layered with fair-trade, chemical-free rugs. Even the way the hotel approaches in-room beverages is green; instead of plastic water bottles, guests are given recycled glass wine bottles to refill at water stations around the property (there’s at least one on each floor). The hotel isn’t only eco-friendly; it’s swanky, too. Out back, along Foss Creek, a lap pool is an inviting spot to spend a hot and sunny afternoon. In the lobby, the bar at Spoonbar! Restaurant still turns out some of the tastiest craft cocktails in town. All overnight stays include complimentary breakfast and access to the hotel’s collection of Public bikes. There’s also a free yoga class for guests every Sunday morning. Be sure to see the on-site Hand Fan Museum, a passion project for Pam Sher, the matriarch of the family in charge. Also make time for a meal at Oaxacan restaurant Mateo’s Cocina Latina across the street (chef Mateo Granados is married to the owner of the hotel).