Merida

Mérida, the capital of Yucatán, is nicknamed The White City, in part because of its cleanliness and in part because of its many white, colonial-era structures, magnificent buildings funded by the fortunes of sisal plantation owners. Despite the Old World feel, the city has plenty of modern services. Visitors interested in authentic cultural experiences won’t be disappointed; Mérida offers free musical and dance performances practically every night of the week.

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Photo by Christina Holmes

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Merida

Admiring architecture, both pre-Hispanic and colonial, is one of the top reasons to visit Mérida. The city is located in the state of Yucatán, which was the heart of Maya civilization, and the ancient, accomplished culture’s pyramids, temples, ceremonial centers, and residential and recreational structures are on display for visitors at sites such as Chichén Itzá and lesser-known places like Mayapan and Dzibilchaltún. Come back to the city center and walk along the Paseo de Montejo to fast-forward to the colonial era. Mérida was flush with cash from sisal production, and its barons of industry built lavish mansions; some of them are open to the public today, such as Casa de Montejo, a former residence that is now a museum.

Outdoor Adventure

Mérida is an inland city, set about a half-hour from the nearest coastal area; it’s also a bit removed from the more jungle-like areas of the Yucatán Peninsula. Nevertheless, the city is an excellent jumping-off point for outdoor adventures in either type of environment. From wildlife excursions (including birding) in the town of Celestún to on-foot exploration of nearly a dozen Maya sites, among them world-famous Chichén Itzá and the lesser-known but no less wondrous Dzibilchaltún, active travelers won’t lack options for things to do during a visit to Mérida. If you just have to get to the beach, the coastal town of Progreso and its white-sand beaches, just to the north of the city, make for an ideal day trip.

Food and drink to try in Merida

Mérida is the official capital of the state of Yucatán, but it is also considered the cultural and culinary capital of the region. Food here is very distinctive, and is typically influenced and informed by long-standing traditions, techniques, and recipes that have endured since the golden age of the Maya civilization. Expect dishes featuring pork, corn, and squash; try some of them at La Chaya Maya, or the upscale K’u’uk, both of which specialize in Maya-inspired cuisine. The city’s relative proximity to the coast also means that fresh fish and seafood are easy to find. If you’re keen to take home some recipes, a cooking class at the renowned Los Dos culinary school is a can’t-miss experience.

Culture in Merida

Mérida has all the usual organizations and institutions where visitors can experience art and other cultural traditions; however, it’s in the city’s open, public spaces—namely, its plazas and squares—where some of the most affordable and most memorable experiences can be had. Nearly every night of the week you can find music and dance performances that channel the traditions of the Yucatán; many of these are influenced by the ancient Maya civilization and all of them are free of charge. Don’t skip formal spaces, though; venues such as the exceptional Teatro Peón Contreras, home to the Yucatán Symphony Orchestra, feature world-class artists in ornate settings.

Practical Information

Mérida is warm year-round and can get very hot in summer; visit in fall for lower humidity and more comfortable temperatures. Mérida is located on the Yucatán Peninsula and is serviced by Manuel Crescencio Rejón Airport. Though it’s an international airport, service from U.S. cities is limited. Many visitors fly into Cancún; though a four-hour drive from Mérida, it has more international flights. Combine the two destinations to experience the beach and a colonial city. A rental car is the best way to get around with maximum freedom and flexibility. The official language is Spanish and the currency is the Mexican peso. Voltage is the same as in the United States.

Guide Editor

Julie Schwietert Collazo has been a bilingual freelance writer, editor, and translator for the past 10 years and loves (almost) every minute of it, but tells people if she could have any other job, it would be a gig as a Mexico City evangelist. The Mexican capital is her former home and the first place she always wants to go when she gets on a plane. Read more at collazoprojects.com and Cuaderno Inedito.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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Established in 1917, this cantina keeps tradition alive while not shying away from new, trendy touches. Swing through saloon doors to find live music, drinks served in mason jars, and lots of free regional nibbles in a lively barroom that extends to a large open-air patio. On weekends the space fills up with twenty- and thirtysomethings swinging to salsa beats and sipping cocktails or some ice-cold, locally brewed Montejo beer. The limonada eléctrica, a drink in the namesake shade of blue that’s charged with a powdered-chili rim, is a real crowd-pleaser.
One of Mexico’s most interesting and varied gastronomic markets, Mercado 60 is home to eighteen culinary options that serve up everything from homemade pasta and sandwiches to Lebanese specialties and, of course, Mexican cantina fare. Get ready to hobnob with locals and travelers alike. The events calendar is packed too, with concerts, dance lessons, performing arts, and even dog adoption days. You’ll find yourself returning time and again to grab a bite or learn to salsa.
Mérida is, with every year, an increasingly popular destination among travelers to the Yucatan peninsula, as well as with expats who are settling in the city. What it has largely lacked,when compared to many of Mexico‘s other colonial cities and towns, are stores with curated items representing the best of the region’s crafts. Casa T’hō is helping to change that. The small shopping center has a half-dozen shops featuring local textiles, guayaberas, soaps, fragrances, and more. There’s also a café/restaurant serving light dishes and cold drinks. The boutiques are located in the rooms of one of the 19th-century mansions that line Paseo Montejo, now meticulously restored with a lovely courtyard dotted with several towering palms.
Manifiesto Café is known for its wide-ranging menu of coffees and careful brewing methods. Order a cup with beans grown in Mexico, Colombia, Costa Rica, El Salvador, or a handful of varieties from Europe. No matter which coffee you choose, it will be freshly-roasted. Manifiesto doesn’t serve coffee that was roasted more than 48 hours earlier. But that’s not the owners’ only rules for the coffee they serve. They also prefer beans harvested at plantations that are about 4200 feet above sea level. If you’re looking for a quick cup of coffee, go elsewhere. Manifiesto takes its coffee very seriously and uses a variety extraction methods. The payoff? Quite easily the best cup of coffee you’ve had in a good long time.
Steps away from Mérida’s prestigious mansion- and monument-lined Paseo de Montejo, this residence turned boutique hotel is a stylish retreat full of Instagrammable moments. Colonial-era details like wooden antiques, wrought-iron chandeliers, and exposed ceiling beams are sprinkled throughout the seven guest rooms, but modern comforts keep things current—think bathrooms with organic toiletries and rain showers illuminated by skylights. There’s plenty of tile flooring and colorful art on the walls, but the most scenic spots are the breezy colonnaded patios that overlook the hotel’s lush outdoor spaces. Head to the tranquil pool area to while away the time with a good read or an expertly crafted cocktail in one of the hammocks that swing beside the water. The next best seat in the house? You’ll find it on the breakfast patio, overlooking the palm-dotted garden. A seat at the granite-topped bar isn’t too shabby either, with personable bartenders serving up a wide variety of top-quality tequilas.
Alongside an upbeat atmosphere and lots of local color, La Chaya Maya boasts an extensive menu that includes all of the Yucatán’s favorites. The restaurant has two outposts but the central venue, in a large colonial house, sets the perfect scene for sampling the region’s traditional delicacies. Pollo mukbil—chicken stuffed with baked corn dough and wrapped in a banana leaf—is definitely worth a try. Usually eaten only during Hanal Pixan (the Maya’s Day of the Dead), it’s on the menu all year round at La Chaya Maya. Anytime you go, you’ll see women in regional dress cooking corn tortillas fresh on the comal, or griddle; it could seem touristy, but here it merely adds to the restaurant’s vibrant feel.
Mérida’s many historic plazas are jam packed with open air event throughout the year. Popular with tourists and locals alike is Yucatecan “Jarana”, a traditional form of dance accompanied by live music. One of the best places to see the show is at “Serenata Yucateca”, a free event each Thursday in the newly restored Plaza Santa Lucía, a traditional square just four blocks from the main Centro plaza. The musicians, singers and dancing “mestizos”, decked out in their colorful costumes begin the show at 9 PM, as they have for the last 40 years. There are plenty of benches to sit to enjoy the show. Also, with restaurants and bars spilling out on the sidewalk, its a great way to catch a dinner and show. Santa Lucía in not just a park, it is also the name of the neighborhood that has come alive since the recent renovation. With traditional cafes, restaurants and shops such as La Chaya Maya and Coqui Coqui Perfumerie, it is fast becoming the “it” place to be in downtown Mérida. Many colonial houses with a private pools are available to rent in Santa Lucia and in the surroundings so you can close the action. (Images courtesy of Merida.gob.mx and aany.org)
Each Tuesday around 7:30pm, locals from in around central Mérida descend on the square in Parque Santiago to dance “danzon” under the stars at the weekly event called “Remembranzas Musicales”. A form of dance and music, “danzón” was introduced from Cuba to México in the early Twentieth Century. Cuban inspired rhythms from the 1930’s and 40’s are just what is takes to get this crowd moving. Each week, elegant ladies and immaculately dressed men kick up their heels to live music provided by the City Band. The average age of the dancers is north of 50, but they know their moves and it always draws a festive crowd. Everybody is welcome to join in, even if you are not the worlds best dancer. If not, you can take a seat on the sidelines and simply enjoy the festivities. Also, with a night market of restaurants adjacent to the plaza and tables spilling out under the night sky, its a great spot to enjoy the show while sampling local dishes like panuchos, salbutes, tamales and sopa de lima. Parque Santiago is in Mérida Centro, four blocks from Méridas main plaza. It is located in 59 street between 70 and 72. The neighborhood of Santiago, in which the park is located is a colorful colonial era neighborhood full of life. With all the music, food and color, it is also one of the best neighborhoods to stay in. Great vacation rentals ideas with pools and other great amenites are yours by the night, week or month at http://www.remixto.com/. (Images courtesy of Mérida.gob.mx)
A perfect 4 days in a new destination means finding culture, great food and authentic experiences. Merida, and its picturesque surroundings with ancient archeological sites, delivered way beyond my expectations. There’s so much beauty there, and there’s so much more to be discovered that I can’t wait to come back. This place is still off the beaten path and selfishly I hope it stays that way a little longer...
The Yucatán Peninsula’s restaurants will take your taste buds from traditional Yucatecan cuisine straight through to more modern takes on Mexican cuisine. Whether you’re looking for a casual restaurant for your morning scrambled eggs or a fine dining experience, the peninsula has it all. Don’t head home without trying local specialties like sopa de lima, cochinita pibil, and queso relleno.