Norway

The name conjures images of icy fjords, Viking longboats, and trolls. But these icons of Norway tell only part of the story. While the landscape is still largely dominated by a long, snowy winter, Norway’s northern climate is moderated greatly by a wealthy society placing a heavy premium on convenience, beauty, and accessibility for all. Yesteryear’s marauding Vikings are today’s well-mannered hydroelectric engineers, so the nation has the intellectual know-how to make theirs not merely a highly desirable nation in which to live but a great year-round destination for travelers. From art, culture, and history to the world’s best hiking, biking and skiing, Norway has much to offer.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Norway?

Summer’s warm weather and long days are perfect for hiking, cycling, or making the most of a 72-hour Oslo stopover (about 58 of which will be spent in broad daylight in mid-June). Winter, though dark (with long nights down south and endless nights up north), is the best time to visit for cold-weather activities like skiing, snowboarding, and ice-climbing—all pursuits either invented by Norwegians or perfected by them. Visitors to Norway’s far northern city of Tromsø can experience 24 hours of sunlight for much of the summer, and perpetual and near-perpetual darkness, with a good chance of witnessing the spectacular northern lights, during much of the winter.

How to get around Norway

Oslo International is the usual gateway for most visitors entering the country, though many visitors from Sweden enter by train, bus, or car. There are also car and passenger ferries from Denmark, Germany, and Belgium.

Norway is a big country and—outside the cities—best explored by vehicle. Buses are plentiful, clean, and well-regulated, though travelers looking to explore outside major towns may wish to rent their own cars. Many chose to visit the country’s famously beautiful fjord-laced coast by boat, and even if you chose to drive, you’ll find car ferries an integral part of your journey. Norwegians heading for more remote communities often do so either by plane or boat. Train travel is also an option, with Norway’s passenger train service running as far north as the town of Bodø.

Food and drink to try in Norway

Cold climes breed hearty eaters, so it’s no surprise that Norwegian cuisine packs in the calorie. A typical hotel buffet breakfast paints a pretty clear picture: In addition to eggs, ham, and bacon, expect to see several varieties of cheese (including rich and flavorful Norwegian favorite gjetost), several types of bread, smoked and fresh salmon, reindeer or elk sausage, and a tube of “KAVIAR,” a spread made from fish eggs that’s as ubiquitous as ketchup. Though dishes like lutefisk are traditional, they tend to be something you’ll need to go out of your way to find, except during holidays. Norwegians love their coffee, and they drink more of it than almost any nation in Europe outside Finland.

Culture in Norway

Norway’s rich cultural tapestry is on display in the capital city of Oslo, where you’ll find museums dedicated to such famous Norwegians as the founder of the Nobel Prize, Alfred Nobel (actually a Swede), and playwright Henrik Ibsen and artist Edvard Munch (whose ghosts are said to sometimes meet for celestial high tea at the Grand Hotel). The city also has one of Europe’s most intriguing sculpture parks.

Aside from obvious festivals like Christmas (a big deal in Santa’s home country), Norway is home to celebrations ranging from unsurprising to downright quirky. People flock to the far northern city of Tromsø for the Northern Lights Festival, January 26–Feb 2, while Bergen holds a summer music festival called Bergenfest, June 21–24. On the quirky end, you can watch musicians play instruments made of ice during the month of February at Lillehammer’s Frozen Waterfall Festival, and facial hair aficionados (and those who love them) won’t want to miss the World Beard and Mustache Championship in Trondheim (usually held in May).

Local travel tips for Norway

Norway is among the world’s most expensive countries—a difficult place to travel on a budget. While hotel prices are comparable to other destinations in Europe, everything else is more expensive. Booking train, bus, and plane tickets in advance can help save on transportation costs. While eating out in Oslo is famously expensive, many cafés offer all-inclusive and quite affordable lunch specials.

Guide Editor

Joshua Samuel Brown has authored or co-authored thirteen travel guides for Lonely Planet and is a regular contributor to their website and “Best in Travel” series.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Maggie Shipstead, author of the novel “Great Circle,” hadn’t written a word when she first arrived in the Norwegian Arctic seven years ago. Here’s how she found seeds of inspiration in the most barren of places.
In an excerpt from her new 2021 book, “Destination Wellness: Global Secrets for Better Living Wherever You Are,” writer Annie Daly reflects on the healing art of doing nothing outdoors on a camping trip to Alta, Norway.
Performing double duty as both a seafood market and restaurant, Fisketorget features the kind of fish that’s impossible to enjoy in most parts of the world. Located just seconds away from Stavanger’s harbor (the distance from the water to your plate is about 10 feet), Fisketorget offers aromatic fish soup; a popular three-course menu; and the Symphony of Caviar, four different caviar varieties served with traditional sour cream and red onion. Overall, the menu is a bargain for Norwegian seafood. If time is tight, grab a take-out tray of fresh shrimp and crab cakes with a slice of lemon and enjoy right there on the harbor steps.
This one-of-a-kind restaurant in Trondhiem’s old town is almost too adorable for its own good. The cramped wooden interior transports you back in time, where you’ll be greeted by a sweet Danish proprietor (she’ll remind you of your grandma no matter where you’re from) who guides you through the nooks and crannies to your table. Ignore the herring buffet and look to the main menu, half of which is taken up by a stellar range of aquavit, a clear Scandinavian liquor reminiscent of vodka and flavored with caraway seeds and spices like cardamom. Expect warming stews and hearty soups served on wobbly tables. It’s all part of the charm.
Grabbing a table at Huken can get competitive, but it’s worth it. This miniature Tromsø pub strikes the perfect balance between cluttered and cozy. Take in the eclectic furnishings and decor while you wait for your choice of hamburger or pancakes. Huken’s burgers are massive and served dripping with sauces, while the American-style pancakes with blueberries and bacon are a favorite with locals and tourists alike. The beer selection is solid for such a small place, and it draws a crowd of drinkers in the evening—so head here early if you want to savor a big meal.
The reward for climbing 418 steps to Aksla mountain’s summit is a cake, coffee, or a three-course dinner at Fjellstua. Admire one of the most famous panoramic views in all of Norway from the minimalist restaurant’s large windows. Although the outdoor kiosk is somewhat of an overpriced tourist trap, step inside for the evening ocean-themed menu, in which traditional Scandinavian sides of boiled potato and salad put the focus squarely on the fish. Book in advance to guarantee a window table—if the weather cooperates, you’ll catch a stunning sunset across the archipelago.
Norwegian fashion institution Moods of Norway was born in 2003 and has been creating outrageous clothing ever since. They’ve even made a checkered suit for Perez Hilton. Moods of Norway aims to showcase the Norwegian nature, spirit, and urban sense of style - “our main goal, besides making our grandmas happy, is to make happy clothes for happy people around the world.” Sounds nice, right? They do clothes that aren’t checkered as well - stop by their Super Duper Store in Karl Johan and see for yourself! *Vaffel is a Norwegian version of the better-known Belgian waffle, but is thinner and not as sugary. It’s often sold in cafeterias, and they are absolutely delicious with a slice of brunost on top!
“The ultimate chick shop” is what concept boutique MagMaLou refers to itself as. Indeed, the shop, located in fashionable area Frogner, offers clothes (both new and vintage), shoes, bags and accessories, as well as a separate hair and beauty lounge, where you can book yourself in for a “star treatment.” Run by makeup artist Marthe Kvenli Valeberg, who has won prizes for her work, MagMaLou opened its doors in 2011 and is still going strong. The focus is presenting customers with a trendy but welcoming image, and everyone is welcome!
Norway’s longest shopping street, Bogstadveien, runs from the Royal Palace to Majorstuen, and boasts some 300 shops and cafés. Many of them are local to the area, but many will be recognisable to tourists as well. This bustling street is always full of happy shoppers, and they hold market days twice a year, cutting off traffic and putting up stalls in the street. During Christmas, the decorations alone will give the most grinch-like person a bit of Christmas spirit!
Stretching from Oslo Central Station in the East to the Royal Palace in the West, Karl Johans Gate is named after King Karl III Johan, who ruled Norway and Sweden in the 19th century. Along the street you’ll find many famous highlights, like the National Theatre, the Parliament, the Royal Palace (the pond of which serves as a skating rink in the winter) Central Station, The Grand Hotel - and of course, plenty of shops. The Bazaar Market (Basarene ved Oslo domkirke) is a particularly colorful place to spend your money. Popular with locals, travelers & gypsies of all sorts, no “must visit” list in Norway would be complete without at least a mention of the venerable Karl Johans Gate plaza.