Rome

Rome, as they say, was not built in a day. Nor can travelers really experience the Eternal City in a day—or even a year. Rome’s numerous and diverse neighborhoods require some time to fully explore. The best place to start? With a stroll through the city’s ancient wonders, including the Forum, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon, followed by a perusal of the food vendors at the “new” Testaccio Market--the location changed in 2012 but, this being Rome, it will always be the “new” location--and a tour of the traditional restaurants and watering holes of the Centro Storico. But no matter how brief your trip, be sure to save time for the old Jewish ghetto, the boutique and wine bar–rich Monti neighborhood, and the broad avenues leading to the Spanish Steps. And, of course, stopping for a shot of espresso and a few scoops of gelato is practically a requirement.

ROME, ITALY - MAY 05, 2015 : Unidentified people at street restaurant in Rome, Italy.

ROME, ITALY - MAY 05, 2015 : Unidentified people at street restaurant in Rome, Italy.

Photo by Boris B/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Rome?

Although summer is peak tourist season, it’s also the time of year when much of city life is lived outdoors, and the warm temperatures and long days can be worth the crowds. However, if you’re looking for a less crowded experience and milder weather, the months of March, April (except for Holy Week), and October are your best bets.

How to get around Rome

From Rome’s Leonardo Da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport—the largest in Italy—there are many ways to get to the center of the Eternal City, including by taxi. (They all charge a city-mandated flat fare of €48 for trips within the bounds of the ancient city walls.) It helps to familiarize yourself with your hotel’s location before arrival. You can also come by train; national rail connections arrive at Stazione Termini, while the privately owned Italo Train service arrives at Stazione Tiburtina.

Rome is a very walkable city and also has several public transportation options, including a limited metro system and dozens of bus lines. Taxis are readily available, but they must be caught from a taxi stand or booked by phone—it’s not customary to hail cabs in the street.

Can’t miss things to do in Rome

Don’t miss Rome’s best pizza by the slice (and, therefore, the world’s), at Pizzarium just north of the Vatican Museums. Gabriele Bonci celebrates traditional ingredients and produce, yet combines them in a modern—and delicious—way.

Food and drink to try in Rome

Italy’s 20 regions have diverse food and wine cultures shaped by climate, terrain, and conquest. In Rome, expect to find dishes driven by cured pork, Pecorino Romano DOP, and offal. Pasta is taken very seriously here, and some dishes are specific to Rome, such as tonnarelli cacio e pepe (fresh pasta with cheese and black pepper), spaghetti alla carbonara (a rich dish, sauced with raw egg, cheese, black pepper, and guanciale or pancetta), and, for the adventurous, rigatoni alla pajata (rigatoni with lamb’s intestine). When it comes to meat dishes, lamb is very popular, especially around Easter, and is often roasted, as are offal dishes such as trippa alla romana, tripe stewed with tomatoes and mint. Travelers should not miss the traditional fried artichoke dish, carciofi all giudia (Jewish style), in season from February to May. Participate in a Savoring Rome Food Tour with AFAR’s partner, Context Travel, and get a taste of the ancient city’s cuisines, from gelato to pizza and from the daily open-air markets to artisanal shops to the restaurants of the Jewish Ghetto.

Culture in Rome

Of course, Rome’s culture is heavily steeped in history and tradition, and yet the city retains a youthfulness and vivacity that makes it one of the hippest destinations in Europe. In Rome, life is lived outdoors and thoroughly enjoyed, at a human pace. The ruins of the ancient city serve as a constant reminder to live in the moment, and the Roman passion for love and life is unique. During the summer, there are special evening events in Rome’s cultural sites, such as after-hours visits to the Vatican Museums on Fridays and opera performances at the Baths of Caracalla.

Rome hosts a tremendous number of festivals throughout the year, including Settimana della Cultura (Cultural Heritage Week) in the spring, and the Cinema Festa Internazionale di Roma (Rome’s film festival) in the fall. Also of interest is the Giornate FAI, when owners of historical homes open their doors to the public.

Local travel tips for Rome

Tipping is always appreciated but never required, though many restaurants in central Rome will expect outrageous tips from American travelers. As a rule of thumb, if you were very happy with the service at a restaurant, leave a couple of euros per person; at a pizzeria one euro per person is acceptable. No tipping is necessary at cafés with table service, though it is a Roman custom to leave 10 cents per coffee when it is taken standing at the bar. There is no need to tip taxi drivers, but hotel porters expect one to two euros per piece of luggage.

Practical Information

- Americans can travel in Rome (and the rest of Italy) up to 90 days as long as your passport is valid for six months after the date you’ll depart Italy. For trips longer than 90 days, you must get an Italian visa.
- A member of the European union, Italy uses the Euro.
- Italian standard voltage runs at 220v to 230v, and uses a two- or three-prong plug.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
The newly opened Corinthia Rome debuts in the former Bank of Italy building with a restaurant by prominent Milan chef Carlo Cracco and a spa in the old vault.
HOTELS
Rome’s hotel scene is as lively and varied as the city itself. Here are 21 places that let you experience the Eternal City in comfort and style.
Set inside a 17th-century noble residence in Rome, Orient Express La Minerva is the first hotel from the heritage luxury train brand.
The luxury rail operator known for restoring vintage cars into opulent accommodations is opening a hotel in a palatial residence that’s been re-envisioned by a star architect into an art deco–inspired gem.
Headed to Rome? These are the four new (and newly renovated) hotels to book for your next trip to the Eternal City.
AFAR’s picks for the 31 best new hotels in the world.
Hotels can introduce their guests to the creativity that surrounds them—and reveal canvases visitors may not otherwise see.
From a historic ship-turned-hotel docked in Edinburgh to the first Four Seasons in Greece, these are the 10 best new hotels opening across Europe in the new year.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Italian officials have plans to restore a key element of the ancient amphitheater, a floor devised by the Romans to conceal an underground network of tunnels and cages during the gladiator era.
Why we love it: An apartment-style hotel designed by acclaimed architect Jean Nouvel

The Highlights:
- Individually decorated rooms with modern appliances created for longer stays
- A thoughtful mix of modern and historic design elements
- A rooftop lounge that looks out over the Roman Forum

The Review:
When the Fondazione Alda Fendi-Esperimenti acquired the Palazzo Rhinoceros—a 17th-century palace near the Roman Forum—and handed renovations over to Jean Nouvel, something special was bound to happen. The renowned French architect transformed the historic palace a stone’s throw from Rome’s birthplace on Palatine Hill into a 24-apartment sanctuary for guests staying anywhere from one night to one year.

The apartments—which all have kitchens designed for longer stays—each have their own unique layout with sliding steel walls so you can close off the living room from the bedroom, or create one massive space. Even though the use of steel materials and contemporary furnishings makes for a thoroughly modern atmosphere, Nouvel kept some old paint intact and installed window panels with photographs of the space before renovations to help tie the property to its historic location. For the best views in the building, head to the six-floor terrace, where you can take in the sunset over the Roman Forum with a cocktail in hand.
Drink Kong is the neo-noir, Manga-meets-Blade Runner–inspired bar created by Rome’s Patrick Pistolesi. A labyrinth of dark-colored lounge spaces, with long bars, neon lights, and harlequin-patterned floors, Kong is both hang-out and experiment. Pistolesi, who has curated some of the city’s best bar menus and is one of the key players in Italy’s cocktail evolution, created an instinctive menu based only on flavors: bitter, sweet, dry. Either peruse the menu for a Kong signature cocktail like “Big Trouble in Oaxaca,” a spicy and slightly fruity tequila and mezcal drink or chat with Kong’s expert bartenders who can craft cocktails customized to your tastes. Or take a leap of faith in the Omakase Room, a Japanese-influenced wood-paneled room for private tastings in the omakase style—your drink will be whatever the bartender chooses for you.
The Court, an off-the-radar lounge bar with front row seats to the Colosseum, is the perfect place to wind down in Rome. The bar overlooks the archaeological ruins of the Ludus Magnus (the site where the gladiators trained) and offers a view of sunset over the Colosseum, the world’s most amazing arena. The cocktails are the creation of mastermind Matteo Zed, one of Rome’s top bartenders, whose tasty Rising Sun (a gin, yuzu, and matcha cocktail) may well keep you at the bar until dawn.
Cesare al Casaletto is far off the well-beaten tourist track, but it is easy to get to: just take the 8 tram from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina and get off at the very last stop. Fifty yards from the tram tracks sits Rome‘s best trattoria, where spectacular fried appetizers (get them all, or at least the gnocchi fritti and polpette di bollito) give way to classic pasta dishes like carbonara and gricia. The second courses are excellent and fall-off-the-tailbone braised oxtail is a favorite. Pair it all with fairly priced natural wines from all over Italy and be sure to leave room for dessert, preferably the panna cotta.
The D.O.M., which opened in late 2013, is a five-star boutique hotel in the heart of Rome’s historic center. Originally built as a 17th-century noble palace, the property was subsequently converted into a monastery, then Ministry of Justice offices. Its current design, which blends architectural elements from its previous uses, was entrusted to architect Antonio Girardi, who has seamlessly married Renaissance reverence and modern design.

Thanks to the previous ecclesiastical incarnation, rooms are intimate and many have low ceilings. Dark gray and brown hues mingle with velveteen, brick, and wood, creating a cavernous feel in the ground-floor common areas, which contrast with the bright and open rooftop terrace and its views over Rome’s Renaissance quarter and across the river to Trastevere. On the ground floor, a small reception area precedes the hotel bar and restaurant, as well as a small enclosed terrace.
Since its founding in 1893, the Hassler has been a pillar of luxury accommodation in Rome. This five-star hotel is perched theatrically atop Trinità dei Monti, the hill at the apex of the Spanish Steps, providing dazzling vistas over Rome’s rooftop terraces and church domes. More than a century after opening, the hotel remains privately owned. Generations dedicated to carefully cultivating a loyal clientele have made the Hassler the destination of choice for many royal and celebrity visitors to Rome. Accordingly, the staff is well-equipped to fulfill every imaginable whim and desire, regardless of how outlandish.

The formal service and decor hark back to the last days of the Grand Tour when European and American elite converged on Rome for its cultural—and couture—offerings, a tradition that still thrives in places like this. The Hassler oozes Old World charm, and its nearly 100 rooms are clad in marble, embellished with antiques, and accented with gilded furnishings, a reminder of the city’s late 19th-century splendor. The common areas are similarly lavish and offer palatial settings for meetings, cocktails, and lounging.

Just across the Piazza Trinità dei Monti, the Hassler’s second property, Il Palazzetto, offers accommodations with a lot less gilding but no less class.
The doorway of the Portrait Roma is one of a growing number of blink-and-you-miss-it boutique hotel entrances behind which contemporary luxuries await. Tucked behind an unassuming facade on a side street off the busy Via dei Condotti, the Portrait Roma is part of the Lungarno Collection, a small group of boutique hotels owned by the Ferragamo fashion house. Opened in 2006, the property prides itself on customized service, and each of the rooms comes with a Lifestyle Manager, or 24-hour concierge, who provides personalized holiday management throughout the stay based partly on the guest questionnaire completed before arrival.

All 14 rooms are suites, and each is classically decorated and designed to mirror the prestige of the Ferragamo brand. Rooms are accented with linen, leather, and cashmere, as well as artwork that evokes the beauty and spirit of Ferragamo. Weather permitting, the rooftop terrace hosts food and drink service and offers views of the historic center.
The Palatine Hill was home to an early Roman settlement and had major significance for the city’s history. Legend states that Romulus founded Rome on that hill in 753 B.C.E., and Romans even maintained a cult site sacred to the founding father for about 1,000 years. When the emperors rose to power, they chose the Palatine as the location for their sprawling villas and built enormous marble-clad structures to showcase their wealth and power. Today, the ruins of their majestic estates rise above the Forum and Circus Maximus, reminders of the grand imperial past. A visit is included in the price of a ticket to the Forum or Colosseum.
Gabriele Bonci’s famous pizza-by-the-slice joint serves some of the best pizza in town. The slow-leavened dough is made from organic stoneground flour, and toppings change throughout the day. Pizzarium also sells excellent bread and supplì (fried rice balls with various fillings). If you dare, get one of every slice. Doing so will certainly push Pizzarium out of the moderate budget range, but it is a worthwhile splurge. Pair your pizza with a craft beer from the fridge. Beware: the tiny place gets crowded at lunch, there are only a couple of benches outside to sit on, and there is no table service.