4 Days in Rome: Vespa Rides, a Secret Colosseum Tunnel, and Culinary-Inspired Cocktails

Baroque churches containing artistic masterpieces, gurgling fountains, cocktails clinking on rooftop terraces, freshly baked pizza bianca—these are some of the sights, sounds, and scents that await you in Rome. You could explore ancient ruins in the morning, eat spaghetti carbonara at a trattoria for lunch, and sip creative cocktails at one of the city’s coolest bars at night.

Now, thanks to an influx of hip new hotels and restaurants, plus reopened archaeological sites, Rome is definitely having a moment. After a decade of visiting followed by more than six years of living here, I’ve gotten to know the best of the old and the new. This itinerary, designed for a long weekend, was crafted from my insider intel as well as that of a few local experts.

Day 1: Take a Vespa tour, then explore Trastevere

Photo by Laura Itzkowitz

Morning: Vespa tour

Whenever my family and friends come to Rome, I tell them to do a Vespa tour with Scooteroma and everyone raves about it. Hop on the back for a three-hour excursion and feel the wind in your hair as one of its professional drivers-guides shows you the sights. The classic tour is perfect for first-time visitors, but there are also several themed tours, including ones for street art, cinema, and foodies.

Afternoon: Lunch and explore Trastevere

The ride will end just in time for lunch, so ask your guide to drop you off in Trastevere, one of the most quintessential Roman neighborhoods. Once a working-class area, it has gentrified over the years, but is still characterized by narrow cobblestone lanes draped with ivy and laundry hanging from apartment windows.

Maria Pasquale, an award-winning Italian Australian journalist and author of several books, including The Eternal City: Recipes & Stories from Rome, called Trastevere home for more than a decade. For a quick lunch she recommends the take-out spot Supplì, saying it offers “a taste of true Roman street fare.” In addition to the supplì (fried rice balls with a breadcrumb crust), she recommends the marinara pizza, which she calls “thin, crispy, and super saucy, with just the right balance of garlic, herbs, and tomato.”

Bring your food a couple of blocks to the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere and sit on the steps of the fountain. It’s like the neighborhood’s living room, where locals and tourists hang out, enjoying the sunshine, some smoking cigarettes, surrounded by bustling sidewalk cafés.

Afterwards, if you need a pick-me-up, pop into Bar San Calisto, an authentic no-frills spot where you’re as likely to spot a group of old men playing cards as a young musician drinking a beer outside. Join the Romans having a quick espresso at the bar or take a seat at the tables out front for some prime people-watching. From there, you’re only a 10-minute walk to Villa Farnesina, one of Rome’s best and most underrated sites. Commissioned by the wealthy banker Agostino Chigi for his wedding, the villa contains incredible ceiling frescoes painted by Raphael in 1518; they depict the marriage of Cupid and Psyche.

Evening: Dinner at women-owned Pianostrada

For dinner, Pasquale says, “Experience a Roman culinary revolution at Pianostrada, a local hot spot owned by a visionary team of women.” The three partners—autodidact chef Paola Colucci and her daughters Flaminia and Alice Spognetta—originally opened the gourmet street food spot in Trastevere in 2014, which moved to the Jewish Quarter in 2016, then back to Trastevere in 2024, on Via della Luce. “From tempura-fried zucchini flowers to artisanal focaccia topped with prosciutto and figs, each dish is a masterpiece of innovation and tradition,” Pasquale says.

Day 2: Museums and baroque glory in the historic center

Photo by Laura Itzkowitz

Morning: Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and Spanish Steps

On the second day, set out on foot to see Rome’s most famous monuments and piazzas. Start early in the morning at the Trevi Fountain, which attracts the most crowds later in the day. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Pantheon, which is Rome’s best-preserved ancient monument, because it was converted into a Catholic church in 609 C.E. If you’re ready for breakfast, head around the corner to the Caffè Tazza d’Oro for a cappuccino and cornetto.

Continue walking west, and you’ll come to Piazza Navona, the city’s most beautiful baroque public square, where you can admire Bernini’s majestic Fountain of the Four Rivers. The surrounding streets are lined with shops, restaurants, and cafés, as well as under-the-radar museums like Palazzo Altemps, which is part of of the Museo Nazionale Romano housed inside a palace containing magnificent 16th-century grotesque (i.e., inspired by decorations in ancient Roman grottoes) frescoes. (Definitely pop in if you have time.)

Head north on Via della Scrofa, which becomes Via di Ripetta, and you’ll find yourself in the posh area around the Spanish Steps, where designer stores vie for shoppers’ attention. For an alternative to the big names, stop by Schostal, an old school shop with a cult following for its striped pajamas. Turn onto Via Tomacelli, then Via dei Condotti, and in a few minutes you’ll arrive at Piazza di Spagna. Bernini’s boat-shaped fountain at the bottom of the steps is another eye-catching masterpiece worth noting before turning your attention to the steps themselves.

Afternoon: Lunch and a park full of museums

In the afternoon, take Via del Babuino and walk north toward Piazza del Popolo, the large round piazza with an Egyptian obelisk flanked by sphinxes spouting water. This was once the northern gateway to Rome, and it’s another fine spot for people-watching, as fashionable locals cross the square on their way to bustling Via del Corso. Have a mozzarella and tomato panino at Canova, which was famed filmmaker Federico Fellini’s haunt, or go for a plate of ravioli cacio e pepe at Le Jardin de Russie within the swanky Hotel de Russie, a favorite of modern-day movie stars and VIPs.

Head up the hill to Villa Borghese, a heart-shaped park. Within, you’ll find a small lake with rowboats, a replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, and a handful of museums, including the spectacular Galleria Borghese. (Make sure you book in advance; timed tickets are required.) Afterward, head over to the Pincio Terrace to catch the sunset with spectacular views of the city.

Evening: Carbonara dinner at SantoPalato

For dinner, hop on the metro to the San Giovanni stop to try slightly elevated takes on Roman classics at SantoPalato run by young chef Sarah Cicolini. “I head to this trattoria with a twist for my favorite carbonara in Rome,” says Zoe Shapiro, founder of Stellavision Travel, a boutique travel company that specializes in Italian tours for self-identifying women. “The menu changes each day depending on fresh and seasonal ingredients, but standouts remain consistent and are paired with a wine list that highlights the next generation of Italian winemakers,” says Shapiro.

Day 3: Visit the Vatican and nearby neighborhood, Prati

Photo by Laura Itzkowitz

Morning: The Vatican

The best way to see the Vatican Museums without the crowds is on an exclusive 6 a.m. tour with the key keeper, but barring that, the next best thing is to go when the museum opens at 8 a.m. Home to some precious works of art, the Vatican Museums actually comprise 24 museums, plus various galleries and chapels. It would take all day to see everything, but stick to the highlights (the Sistine Chapel, Raphael Rooms, the Statues Courtyard, and the Gallery of Maps), and you can get out in time for lunch.

Afternoon: Get a slice and explore Prati

Many make a beeline to the recently renovated Bonci Pizzarium, which has a reputation for its pizza al taglio (by the slice) in Rome. But the man behind it all, pizzaiolo/baker Gabriele Bonci, also has an eponymous bakery in the neighborhood that’s a bit of a local secret. In addition to baked goods, slices are also on the menu here, and although there aren’t as many toppings options, it’s the same pizza recipe.

Spend the afternoon exploring Prati, the neighborhood adjacent to the Vatican. Developed in the early 20th century, it may lack the cobblestone charm of the historic center, but it’s a busy business and shopping area where Romans hang out. Bustling Via Cola di Rienzo is the neighborhood’s main thoroughfare, where you’ll find midtier stores like Benetton for apparel, Geox for shoes, Castroni for gourmet foods, and the department store Coin.

Evening: A castle sunset and yuzu cocktails

End your day at Castel Sant’Angelo, a fortress overlooking the Tiber River, surrounded by a verdant park. Many who walk there pass by Piazza Pia, a new public square for pedestrians coming from the Vatican.

If you decide to stick around until evening, get a Japanese 75 cocktail made with yuzu at Chorus Café. Tucked inside the Auditorium della Conciliazione concert hall, the bar sits in an impressively cinematic space with high ceilings, marble walls, and busts of popes.

Day 4: Follow the footsteps of Rome’s ancient emperors

Photo by Laura Itzkowitz

Morning: Historic pastries and the Colosseum

By now you’ve probably noticed that Romans start their day with breakfast at bars, which are generally open all day and serve coffee, pastries, and sandwiches in addition to alcohol. Aside from the ubiquitous cornetti, the most Roman pastry is a maritozzo, a half bun filled with whipped cream. Try one at the historic Pasticceria Regoli near Piazza Vittorio, one of the city’s most diverse enclaves, where many Asian immigrants have opened shops and restaurants. You can find goods imported from the Middle East, Africa, Asia, or South America at the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino.

From here it’s a quick walk to the Colosseum. New for 2025 is the ability to visit the “Commodus Passage,” a secret tunnel used by emperors to enter the imperial box (but make sure you book a ticket that includes it in advance). The same ticket grants you access to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. You’ll need about half a day to visit them all.

Afternoon: Roman pasta in Monti and a walking tour

Give your feet a rest at La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, a family-run restaurant located on the edge of Monti, the charming neighborhood just uphill from the Forum. Try one of the quartet of Roman pastas (carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and gricia) or a twist on them, like its version of la gricia with seasonal fruit.

Then for a wider lens on Roman history, join Stellavision’s Women and Secrets of Ancient Rome tour. “This walking tour showcases Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, Capitoline Hill, and Forum while centering the stories omitted by most tour companies and pulling important historical figures from the margins of history books,” says Shapiro. Or head over to Largo di Torre Argentina (the archaeological site where Julius Caesar was assassinated), which is now accessible thanks to new walkways.

Evening: Aperitivo hour at the Court and dinner at Mazzo

If you’re ready to splurge on a fabulous aperitivo, book a table at the Court inside the Palazzo Manfredi hotel (which happens to boast head-on views of the Colosseum), one of the city’s most exclusive cocktail bars. Here you can order a two-cocktail tasting experience, with flavors like artichoke and blue cheese, plus snacks from the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant.

Afterward, take a taxi to up-and-coming San Lorenzo to check out a restaurant suggested by Shapiro. “Mazzo’s new location offers a menu that modernizes classic Roman ingredients and honors the city’s ‘cucina povera’ history in a beautifully designed space,” Shapiro notes. “Come for the food, stay for the vinyl.”

Where to stay: Rome hotels

For this itinerary, we’d recommend staying in one of these hotels.

Orient Express La Minerva

Orient Express La Minerva opened this spring as the first hotel under the Orient Express brand, which also launched a new luxury train. It’s housed in the historic Grand Hotel de la Minerve just steps from the Pantheon and boasts art deco–inspired furnishings, a greenhouse-esque lobby, and a chic rooftop restaurant with bird’s-eye views of the Pantheon.

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Photo by Mattia Aquila

Hotel de Russie

For a tried-and-true stalwart, check into the Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte Hotel, which is home to the aforementioned Le Jardin de Russie restaurant in the “secret garden” as well as the chic Stravinskij Bar, which was refreshed last year.

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If neither of these work out, check into one of these 21 hotels we love in Rome, such as Hotel de la Ville (sister to Hotel de Russie) or newcomers like Casa Monti or Palazzo Talìa.

This article was originally published in 2024; it was most recently updated in November 2025.