Kerala

Kerala is the southernmost state on India’s western coast. A progressive socialist region—Kerala boasts of one of the highest literacy rates in the country—it’s also one of the country’s most beautiful, with a long sandy coastline, velvet green hills, and dense forests, all interpenetrated by the snaking channels and sweeping expanses of the backwaters. The state has a rich history and a tradition of hospitality, and it’s easy to slip right into the relaxed pace of life. The state capital, Thiruvananthapuram, is also known as Trivandrum; the popular city of Kochi is also known as Cochin.

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Photo Courtesy of Chiara Goia

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Kerala

Beaches, backwaters, and tea and spice plantations aside, there’s a lot of history to be enjoyed in Kerala. Stroll around Fort Kochi, the historic core of the city, and travel back to the time of spice traders and merchants along the lanes of Jew Town, past the Paradesi Synagogue. Visit the Santa Cruz Basilica and St. Francis Church, before heading to Mattancherry to enjoy the murals and temple art at Mattancherry Palace, a 1555 gift from the Portuguese to the Raja of Kochi. Kerala is home to some of the biggest temples in India and is a popular pilgrimage destination, with temples like the historic Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram, the Guruvayur Temple in Guruvayur, and Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur.

Culture in Kerala

Dance, music, and art are ingrained in the local way of life. Many Indian classical dance forms trace their roots to Kerala’s waters. The most well-known of these are kathakali—a dance drama traditionally performed only by men—and the graceful, 16th-century form of mohiniattam, a temple dance performed only by women. Kerala is also known for its ancient practice of kalaripayattu, a dramatic martial art form that dates back 3,000 years; daily shows take place at the Cochin Cultural Centre in Kochi. Modern forms of artistic expression are also revered; Kerala’s film industry is famous for churning out Malayalam masterpieces and blockbusters, rivaling the Hindi film industry based out of Mumbai.

Food and drink to try in Kerala

Three big influences dominate Kerala’s culinary culture: Hindu vegetarian preparations, which include the festive sadhya—a banquet of at least 20 dishes served on banana leaves—and popular rice-based snacks such as dosas and idlis; the Islamic influences of Malabar cuisine, known for its aromatic biryanis and flatbreads served with beef fry; and Syrian Christian flavors, with roast duck, stews, and crepes, as well as rich Christmas cakes. All three styles of cuisine make good use of coconut, both grated and in milk form. Seafood and root vegetables are also common, as are an assortment of homegrown spices.

Shopping

Kerala isn’t a place where you stock up on soft cottons and colorful footwear. In Kerala, you stock up on metals: brass, bronze, copper, and gold. Ornate brass and copper vessels, statues, and idols are particular specialties. In addition, given the popularity of jewelry in the state, there’s a gold shop on every other street corner. Products made from coir, a coconut fiber, are also a big draw, and include masks, mats, and handbags. Other items to look for include wood carvings, elephant figurines, foot stools, and unique vintage items, including ornate furniture. Shipping can be arranged by most sellers, if necessary. If you prefer to travel light, buy a bag of fresh, homegrown spices.

Practical Information

The weather in Kerala is comfortable from late October to May; June to September is monsoon season. Kerala has three airports that serve international and domestic destinations: Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram, and Kozhikode. All foreign visitors require an Indian visa. You can get around in private taxis, or take tourist buses and trains for longer distances. Malayalam is the local language, but English is widely understood. Local transactions are made in the Indian rupee (INR); hotels, big stores, and restaurants accept credit cards, but smaller establishments might not. ATMs are widely available. Most bills include a service charge in lieu of tip; if this is not added, it’s common to tip 10%. Electricity is 220 volts.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The Jaipur Modern boutique stocks products that put a contemporary, worldly twist on the region’s highly-skilled artisan craft traditions—so it’s fitting that the shop’s restaurant does something similar on the culinary front. Committed to partnering with organic and sustainable farms, individual farmers, and agricultural projects—as well as maintaining its own farm—the Kitchen incorporates fresh local ingredients into a globally-influenced menu, resulting in dishes like pizza topped with free-range chicken, spiced couscous, potato rosti with farm-fresh poached eggs, and a lengthy list of cold pressed juices. Most unique is a separate menu—the first of its kind in India—that showcases the versatility of superfood quinoa, sourced locally from Organic Farmers Co. The “Q Menu” features the grain in everything from veggie sushi, pad thai, and dumplings to decadent deserts. Including house-baked cakes and cookies.
Surrounded by acres of manicured gardens, marbled colonnades, and flower-filled pools, the complex of the Taj Rambagh Palace hotel—once the home of the Maharajah of Jaipur—is one of the most serene spots in the Pink City. Even if you’re not staying here, come soak up the history—and escape the city bustle—with a lunch, afternoon tea, or a light supper at the al fresco Verandah Café, where the tables are arrayed under archways and out onto the lawn. Come during the day and you might catch a glimpse of the hotel’s signature VIP guest welcome ceremony (performed by colorfully painted elephants), or call ahead to find out if there will be a dance or musical performance on the lawn in the evening. The menus feature both Indian and international dishes, with choices ranging from sampler thali platters and ratatouille-topped potato pancakes to charred German bratwurst and Caribbean chicken salad. Afternoon tea harkens back to the royal days with traditional English scones, finger sandwiches, and a tower of freshly-baked sweets; go for the Champagne add-on for an extra-regal experience.
Locals may argue over their favorite places for kathi rolls, but Nizam’s is one spot that’s always on the list. The atmosphere is nothing much to speak of—it’s an order-at-the-counter, seat-yourself kind of place—but the freshly-made stuffed rolls are sure to satisfy your lunchtime (or late-night) craving. Choose from a long list of fillings, from mutton and egg or chicken tikka to paneer cheese, mushroom, and potato. Sides like kebabs, biryani rice (vegetarian and not), and omelets are also available, and you can wash it all down with a fresh lime soda. There are multiple Nizam locations in Delhi (as well as a few other in other states), but the Connaught Place shop—not far from the famous ring of colonnaded Georgian buildings, the Janpath Market, and the name-brand retailers—is a particular landmark.
Gandhi Smriti, previously called Birla House, is now a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, the man many consider the “Father of Indian Independence.” Gandhi lived in the house during the last several months of his life and was assassinated here in January 1948. View the modest rooms where he spent his days, and stroll the same prayer grounds where he held a nightly congregation. A visit to Gandhi Smriti offers insight into the last 144 days of Gandhi’s life, during one of the greatest periods in Indian history.
For centuries, Rajasthan—and Jaipur in particular—has served as the epicenter of India’s gemstone industry; as far back as the early-1700’s, the skilled craftsmen of this region were cutting, shaping, and polishing about 90 percent of the stones used by the country’s jewelry makers. This legendary Jaipur shop has been witness to nearly all that history, with the founding Kasliwal family serving as jewelers to the Maharajas of the Mughal empire—followed by a long list of international royalty, presidents, and celebrities; they’ve even been granted honors by the British Crown, and their pieces have been exhibited at London’s Somerset House and New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Stop in to ogle the glittering goods—which are available in traditional, modern, and vintage-inspired styles—and learn a bit about the expert artistry and craftsmanship that goes into creating them. Prices run the gamut, so there’s something for most budgets, but be warned that most of the pieces are designed to dazzle. There are also Gem Palace outposts in luxury hotels throughout India (including some Oberoi and Taj locations), as well as a few partner boutiques outside of the subcontinent.
Skip the hassle and haggling of street souvenir shopping—and be assured of the quality of the goods—at this government-run emporium stocked with examples of all of Rajasthan’s signature arts and crafts. It’s easy to get carried away amid the swirl of colors and textures, surrounded by hanging wooden puppets dressed in traditional garb, shelves lined with bright blue-and-yellow pottery, and stacks of block-printed and tie-dyed textiles. Larger items like rugs, trunks, and furniture (including bed frames, cabinets, and doors) will probably need to be shipped, while giftables like painted picture frames, carved figurines, pillow cases, brassware, and embroidered wall coverings should fit nicely in a second suitcase.
Hand-printed textiles are one of Rajasthan’s signature artisan crafts, and the Anokhi shops—found all over India—are some of the best places to stock-up on rolls of printed fabric and clothing, home furnishings, stationery, bedding, and more made from the beautiful textiles. But as with many traditional crafts, hand-printing is in danger of disappearing, replaced by modern technology, so Anokhi created this center in Jaipur both to showcase the art form and provide education and opportunities to those wanting to learn the trade. Now among Jaipur’s more popular tourist attractions, the museum (which is located a short walk from Amber Fort, in a historic haveli, or mansion), houses a permanent collection of antique, vintage, and contemporary block-printed textiles, as well as traditional outfits, wooden tools used in hand-printing, and more. Rotating exhibits focus on specific materials or types of printing, while the education center offers demonstrations and classes, including workshops for tourists. Naturally, there’s also a shop where you can stock up on goodies, including limited-edition items.
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Surrounded by 40 pristine sand- and grass-topped acres, endless water views, and the sound of crashing waves, Bekal Fort—the largest fort in Kerala—feels like it rose up from the sea. In fact, it was built some three centuries ago as a defense post, lingering evidence of which includes the old ammunition storage areas and the cannon windows lining the outer walls. Today, visitors can wander around the complex, climbing up the observation tower, strolling around parts of the original walls, venturing out to the waterside walkways, and picnicking on the main lawns. (Along with the history and scenic beauty, the filming of some hit movies here has made the fort even more popular with domestic tourists.) After exploring the site, head down to the beach for some sea air and views of the fort from a different vantage point.