Greece

Whether your first view of Greece is of the sparkling Mediterranean or the stubbornly steadfast Acropolis, you’ll realize you’re somewhere special. Sit down at any taverna by the sea for a feast of fried fish and baked feta, and get wrapped up in ouzo and the musical flow of the Greek language. For history and classics geeks, the mainland is your treasure trove. The Oracle at Delphi will provide you with answers, and the sheer size of the ruins at Olympia will give you new appreciation for the ancients. Hike through the rugged landscapes and coastlines of the many islands, including Santorini’s fractured caldera, and Crete’s Samaria Gorge. Take the edge off while partying in the whitewashed alleyways of Íos Town, or relax on a lesser-known island like Icaria.

C76JNA Greece, Cyclades Islands, Mykonos, Chora, Church of Panagia Paraportiani. Image shot 2011. Exact date unknown.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Greece?

Although summer in the Mediterranean is never disappointing, late spring and early autumn are by far the best times to visit. Prices remain lower between March and May, and crowds have thinned. The same goes for the end of September to November. The fall season, though sometimes rainy, offers a sea that is still blissfully warm after a scorching summer.

How to get around Greece

Athens is the main travel hub. It’s possible to score fairly priced flights from Europe to some of the more popular islands—especially Santorini, Crete, or Mykonos—but it’s much easier to fly into Athens International Airport. From there, you can take a ferry from Piraeus Port to just about anywhere.

One of Greece’s many charms is that nobody is ever in a rush. This applies to transit as well. Airplanes and ferries are by far the most efficient modes of travel around the country, especially to the islands. On the other hand, the subway system in Athens is actually quite modern, having been built for the 2014 Olympics. It’s handicapped accessible, thanks to elevators in every station. Athens’ bus system is less reliable. On the islands, buses are the way to go, unless you opt for car rental. For all schedules, check out the Greek Travel Pages.

Food and drink to try in Greece

Food is at the heart of Greek living. Seek out the tavernas—you’ll find one in every town—serving steaming bowls of baked feta, fried eggplant, grilled fish, lamb chops, and fresh halva. The Greeks aren’t big drinkers; being inebriated in public is an embarrassment. But the local liquors should be tried: ouzo, raki, and tsipouro are the most common. Tsipouro tends to be underappreciated by travelers. Mix with ice and a small dose of water, and pair with mezedes—generous tapa dishes. If you love wine, head to Santorini. If you’re needing cool refreshment, opt for a frappé, the beloved iced coffee drink of Greek youth.

Culture in Greece

Despite being surrounded by culturally diverse countries like Turkey and Serbia, Greece has held steadfast to its roots. Athens is a bit of an exception, thanks to a large influx of Albanian and Turkish immigrants. For full immersion into Greek culture, head to the lesser-known islands that do not depend on tourism, like Lesbos or Hydra.

Holy Week in April is an exciting time to be in Greece and celebrate Orthodox Easter. Traditionally, celebrations include lamb roasts, fireworks, homemade wine, and dancing in costume. Santorini is one of the best places to celebrate; here people take elaborate care fixing up their property for the event. Carnival in March is a great time to take part in costume parades, drinking, and dancing. Go to Skyros to witness the “goat dance,” or anywhere in the Ionian islands for more Italian-style celebrations. The Athens Festival in June pays tribute to Greek culture and arts. You may be lucky enough to be in town during a feast of the saints, like the Feast of St. Nikolaos or the Feast of St. Demitrius.

Local travel tips for Greece

The locals know that autumn is the best time to visit Santorini. Ferry strikes and Greek protests can often cause delays in travel, but they are usually harmless. Check in advance. Study up on the language a bit before arriving, especially if visiting the quieter islands, where little English is spoken.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
A classic Plaka hotel close to Syntagma Square, the Electra Palace checks all the boxes for convenient location, rooftop restaurant overlooking the Acropolis, comfortable rooms, plus niceties like a gym, spa, and pool. Spacious suites feature views of the Parthenon, marble bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs, and handwoven carpets. A Greek breakfast buffet is served in the downstairs garden, and drinks and food are served all day on the fifth-floor rooftop. Hydrating facials, body wraps, and Cretan olive oil massages are given at the spa, which also has a heated indoor pool and jacuzzi. For spring and summer visitors, an afternoon at the outdoor pool overlooking the city’s monuments and neoclassical archicture is practically a requirement.
Although the restaurant claims it’s “American” (the owner is from San Francisco), local Greeks are laying claim on this all-day hangout. Breakfasts and brunches—creamy Greek yogurt and pancakes—start the day, then around lunch, diners switch over to cheeseburgers and fries, Tandoori chicken, perfect Middle Eastern falafel, and even a couple of Thai dishes. The eclecticism magically works, as ingredients used are crazy-fresh and the atmosphere is low-key and friendly. The team of chefs is as international and colorful as the menu (and as the ceiling, too, which is decorated with multicolored umbrellas), and Mama Roux lies on a pedestrian-only street, which helps, too. As night falls, you may as well stay for dinner, and try the excellent beers on tap.
Mykonos’s 16 windmills have become iconic structures that can be seen from all over the island. At the edge of town, the Boni Windmill details how and why the windmills worked but is open only for limited summer hours. But you don’t have to go inside to enjoy the beauty of these old forces of wind power: Stand in awe of their survival over centuries and take some great pictures.
The central market of Iráklion is an exhilarating mix of tourist shops and traditional stalls that don’t seem to have changed in years. Old-fashioned butchers and grocers sit side by side with bakers and cheese mongers. You’ll find it nearly impossible to resist buying a sweet melon or some briny olives, and the bustling atmosphere is suitably authentic.
Sometimes the setting makes a meal. This restaurant is set on the beautiful beach of Agios Andreas, just a few kilometers from Katakolon. Kastro specializes in Mediterranean classics, with great plates of mixed meze based on seafood, as well as pasta and other traditional dishes.
Local ingredients take center stage at Vezené, a bistro in central Athens, where chef-owner Ari Vezené ages his own meats, sources the best seafood in Greece, and cooks 150 meals a day for people in need. This appeared in the January/February 2018 issue.
Cookoovaya’s five chefs (Periklis Koskinas, Manos Zournatzis, Vaggelis Liakos, Spyros Liakos, Nikos Karathanos; all individual Athenian stars) have gotten together to celebrate “wise cuisine”—which is how they see Greek eating in general. This is Greek fare modernized but not unduly messed with; dishes are kept simple but are sublimely chosen and made with the freshest seasonal and local ingredients. Meals here are still designed to be eaten communally, as is usual in Greece, but it’s all done with an elegant twist. Fare from the wooden oven is especially amazing, like spinach pie, or, ah, moussaka (taken to a special level in the latter case). Be warned: the pretty, airy, Michelin-recommended restaurant can fill up fast. Fun fact: Cookoovaya means “owl” in Greek—the symbol of Athens and of wisdom.
Hytra serves nouvelle Greek cuisine at its finest, in a location inside the Onassis Cultural Centre (and, in the warmer months, atop it). The name “Hytra” comes from the ancient Greek word for a terra-cotta vase, but there’s nothing old-fashioned about this Michelin-starred restaurant: Chef Tassos Mantis reimagines Greek classics in his adventurous tasting menu (eight or fourteen courses, paired with Greek wines) or ambitious mains like milk-fed lamb served with quinoa and mastic yogurt. Incredible views and excellent service, too.
The brainchild of Greek art curator Helena Papadoupoulos (formerly of New York and Berlin and thus a familiar face on the art circuit), Radio Athènes is an arts nonprofit that advances visual culture. That means it not only mounts provocative and often political exhibitions, but also and, maybe more importantly, hosts deep talks and discourse on cultural issues of our day. Its space is also a bookstore-library. Check the rich schedule of talks and events at radioathenes.org.
The place of choice to watch the sunset is the quarter of Little Venice—a clutch of balconied fishermen’s houses dressed in colorful paint and reflecting the waters of the sea beside them. Numerous charming tavernas live here, too, so it’s a great place to end up after a walk. The narrow alleys can get crowded when ships are docking, and the restaurants and bars sometimes overcharge, knowing they’re in an enviable location.