Search results for

In 1989, Chilean winemakers Augustin and Valeria Huneeus happened upon a 280-acre parcel of land in the heart of Rutherford that had never been planted with vines. The couple jumped and bought it. The result is Quintessa, one of the most spectacular estates in the Napa Valley. Today there are three different ways to experience Quintessa—all visits are privately hosted and tailored specifically for each guest. The Estate Tasting includes a walk to a scenic viewpoint, followed by a seated sampling session in the main winery building. The “Quintessential Quintessa” includes a scenic drive to a private tasting pavilion atop Dragon’s Hill, which offers unrivaled vistas of the entire valley and revolves around narratives about the property, the terroir, and how winemaker Rebekah Wineburg plies her craft. Finally, the third—and most exclusive—option, dubbed the “Collectors Experience,” offers at least three wines from the Huneeus family cellar, poured alongside the most current release. Time the visit right and Augustin Huneeus himself might come out in his signature cowboy hat to say hello and regale your group with stories of his life in South America before he emigrated to the United States.

Kiyomizu-dera on Mount Otowa is one of the most famous temples in Japan, a place that appears in every sequence of Japanese travel photos. The landscape is all cherry trees and forest; it is among Kyoto‘s loveliest spots. The current structure dates to 1633 and is one of 33 temples on a pilgrimage circuit in the Kansai region dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. The circuit runs from the south of Wakayama north to the Sea of Japan. You’ll see pilgrims carrying nokyo-cho—books stamped to record the visit—and monks busily inscribing in calligraphy. The temple, set against a steep hill and constructed on huge pilings, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Bird’s Isle, a staple on the Belize City local dining and socializing scene, is just five minutes south of the noisy downtown along a waterfront, with an open dining room that enjoys breezy views of the dock and the birds hovering nearby. The kitchen serves Belizean Creole dishes and seafood as well as burgers. A lively crowd of locals flocks here for the daily lunch specials—especially Tuesday’s beef soup—and in the evenings, you can expect a crowd for happy-hour deals and a fun atmosphere. Thursday is karaoke night.

One of Dubai’s oldest and busiest traditional souks, Naif Souk is a great spot for buying souvenirs and trinkets that will tell the world “I just came back from Dubai!” Offering fabrics, cosmetics, street food, and much more, Naif Souk is frequented by a variety of the city’s residents, from South Asian laborers to Arab women. Everyone is trying to score good deals and outsmart the merchants, so practice your bargaining skills. Characteristic of souks of olden times, Naif Souk exudes a lively ambience. If you love a good deal—and who doesn’t?—Naif Souk deserves a spot on your itinerary.

You can’t party in Dubai without finishing the night at one of the city’s open-late cafeterias. Workers sit together for snacks, friends share deep conversations, and cars with obnoxious music stop for chai here. This space is deeply entrenched in many Dubaians’ routines and childhoods, and it is not often frequented by tourists. However, a visit to cafeterias like Oyoun Al Reem can give you an inside look into the communities that make up Dubai, beyond the skyscrapers and fancy cars. Ask for the Oman chips cheese paratha, a South Asian flatbread with spicy crisps and cheese; it’s like biting into heaven.

Dubai’s Western and South Asian expats are only part of the city’s immigrant mix—Arab expats, many fleeing war-torn countries, thrive here too, and thriving restaurants like Samad Al Iraqi are the proof. Try to visit the location on Al Muraqqabat Road, which is one of the city’s most charming streets, where you’ll dine alongside Iraqis of all classes and backgrounds. This spot is worth a visit just for its grilled masgouf fish, a famous Iraqi dish dating all the way back to the Babylonian era. Craving meat? The kebabs and mixed dolmas (veggies stuffed with lamb and rice) are first-rate.

Since bursting on to the scene in 2013, this Chippendale hotspot has multiplied its loyal fans along with its awards—chef Mat Lindsay was even named Australian Gourmet Traveller’s 2018 Chef of the Year. Surrounded by stucco archways and strung with pendant lights, the dining room provides a subtle backdrop to dishes that are rustic yet refreshing. The wood-fired oven is put to good use, sometimes in surprising ways, like for charring cauliflower or lightly roasting rock oysters to warm, gooey perfection. There are also beautifully baked meats and breads, and a baby blood sausage “sanga” for those craving comfort food. For dessert, order the burnt pavlova, a classic meringue that takes a trip through the flames before being dusted in elderflowers.

“In the 1980s, this teahouse was a gathering spot for artists, writers, thinkers, activists, advocates, and revolutionaries to talk about political reform and the ideal future. These days, it’s more symbolic—a tourist spot like the Café de Flore in Paris.” —KK Yeh

This appeared in the November/December 2017 issue.

Opened by local restaurateur Lisa Wong in 1992, Rosario’s started as a neighborhood café, where San Antonio residents came to satisfy their Tex-Mex cravings. Today, it’s a city institution, known for its south-of-the-border specialties and house favorites. Don’t miss the tantalizing albondigas con arroz (Mexican meatballs braised in a spicy broth and served with rice and queso fresco), or the flavorful enchiladas Mexicanas (three queso-filled enchiladas smothered in a fragrant chile-infused sauce). And be sure to wash it all down with a perfectly crafted margarita.

Built in the 1920s by a Croatian businessman, Palacio Astoreca underwent two years of refurbishment and restoration before opening its doors as a boutique hotel in 2012. The work was carried out to a meticulous degree, maintaining the original parquet floors, and adding splashes of color with art deco furniture and modern art, including one piece by Switzerland’s Frédéric Clot. The stucco-and-brick mansion rises up from the streets of Chile’s port city, Valparaíso, like a piece of red-and-white confectionary.

A statement staircase winds up to the 23 rooms, some of which have stand-alone bathtubs. And the basement level is home to a small spa with an open-air, wood-fueled hot tub set alongside a living wall. The reception level and entrance hall open out onto a terrace where lunch, tea, and cocktails are served, allowing guests prime views over the hilly city and Pacific Ocean. There are quiet corners for those seeking a solitary moment, including a library and a piano bar, which comes to life in the evenings with live music.

Even fun has a shelf life. This is what runs through my mind as I walk around Spreepark, the abandoned, dilapidated amusement park in Berlin. When East Germany and the GDR fell, so did many of the businesses operating under the rules of communism. They were never really able to make the transition to capitalism successfully. Spreepark, located in the East German part of Berlin, was one such casualty. Even though Spreepark is “dead,” it is now a present-day photographic amusement park. The park is closely guarded, and trespassing is typical but also dangerous, so an enthusiastic, enterprising young man has started running tours on the weekend, providing access to shoot away to your heart’s content. The rides and stands have all deteriorated in place over the years, which makes for an eerie photographic landscape. More Information: Tour information (only in German) – www.berliner-spreepark.de/ – Tours are given mainly on the weekends. If you want to go on a tour, contact him, as he does know a little English and you can at least book yourself into a tour and get access for photography—even if you don’t understand the stories.

Standing out in San Francisco‘s Marina District, this historic landmark is a leftover from the 1915 Pan-Pacific International Expo and was designed by Bernard R. Maybeck, a student of the École des Beaux-Arts. His vision was to give the impression of ancient Roman ruins. When the fair concluded, the Palace of Fine Arts proved too beautiful to raze. Maybeck had intended the Palace to fall into ruins (in keeping with his original vision), and it did for years. It was used as a storage depot after World War II and as a warehouse for the Parks Department. In the late 1950s, a local city official led an effort to face-lift the building. The Palace of Fine Arts was rebuilt and is now enjoyed by visitors who walk beneath the towering colonnade and the grand rotunda.

The edges of the iceberg (technically, bergy bits) are a great place for animal sightings. Harbor seals ride the floes, basking in the sun; orca whales prowl just around the ice barrier, waiting for an unwary seal to come out to where the whales’ sonar can reach. Humpbacks feed off krill upwellings, and bald eagles are as common as sparrows. Those who are very lucky (and who have good spotting scopes) can see mountain goats on occasion. They’re a wonder in the wild: How does a goat get up 3,200 meters of rock?

One of New York’s loveliest historic districts, Brooklyn Heights sits along the East River to the south of the Brooklyn Bridge. Its streets are lined with beautifully preserved and restored 19th-century town houses while a promenade along its western edge offers views of the skyline of downtown Manhattan—especially stunning when the sun is setting over New York’s harbor. Simply wandering its streets, you’ll feel transported back in time, but there are some buildings of special interest you may want to seek out. The celebrated 19th-century preacher Henry Ward Beecher (brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe) presided at Plymouth Church (57 Orange St.). Truman Capote finished Breakfast at Tiffany’s and wrote In Cold Blood during the 10 years he lived at 70 Willow Street, and novelist Thomas Wolfe lived at 5 Montague Terrace from 1933 to 1935. Grace Church (254 Hicks St.) and St. Ann & the Holy Trinity (157 Montague St.) are outstanding examples of 19th-century Gothic Revival architecture. After you are done exploring, Atlantic Avenue, which marks the southern edge of the neighborhood, and Montague Street have a number of restaurants to choose from if you are ready for a meal.

An unassuming little neighborhood restaurant in the shadow of Mount Tabor, Coquine offers one of the best dining experiences in the city. Chef Katy Millard cooks what tickles her fancy, usually something seasonal, vaguely Continental, definitely Northwestern, and always interesting. (One constant, though, is the whole chicken to share, a crowd favorite.) Unlike at many fine-dining establishments, you can stop in for breakfast or lunch, too. Try the chocolate chip cookies, which are so popular that you used to have to call ahead and order them in advance if you wanted them at dinner. Ksandek Podbielski, Millard’s husband, oversees the regionally focused yet still surprising wine list.