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When Southern Ocean Lodge, the flagship property of Australian hotel brand Baillie Lodges, opened in 2008, it was Kangaroo Island’s first true luxury lodge, known for its cinematic spot atop grass-covered limestone cliffs, with curved guest suites facing the namesake seas. Surrounded on three sides by national parks, Southern Ocean Lodge connected travelers with Australia’s powerful natural landscapes. Then in early January 2020, wildfires consumed more than half of Kangaroo Island, reducing the ecological paradise to sandy hills and blackened branches. Southern Ocean Lodge was a casualty of the blaze.


As AFAR’s Katherine LaGrave reported in her feature on the island, rebuilding began in earnest in February 2022, with the goal of becoming more sustainable: “The new lodge will use 25 percent less energy than the original lodge, and diesel fuel consumption will be halved. There will be rainwater harvesting, reliance on a hybrid solar-and-battery system, and elevated boardwalks to minimize impact on the health of coastal plants. Smart landscaping will create a sort of buffer around the lodge.”



Along with the new sustainable choices, the lodge has replicated the footprint of the original property, with 25 guest rooms slightly reoriented to optimize sea views. A new ultra-premium suite, the Ocean Pavilion, has up to four bedrooms and bathrooms (or two separate suites) with an outdoor terrace and private pool. And the ever-popular main lodge still has a Great Room with a suspended fireplace and a deck with a plunge pool that juts toward the sea.

The winding streets of ancient Genoa all lead in one direction—straight up. Lace up your tennis shoes and keep climbing. Eventually you will reach a small park at the edge of the city, the entrance to one of the many fortresses that speckled its 17th-century walls. From here you’ll be treated to one of the best views of both old and new Genoa. Come at dusk for a stunning sunset over the urban edge of the Ligurian Sea. (And if you are too tired to walk back down, catch the funicular for less than two euros!)

Romance is easy to come by at Emelisse, on a private beach on Kefalonia. One turquoise infinity pool spills into another before seeming to pour directly into the glittering Ionian Sea. Come evening, dozens of glowing lanterns illuminate the stone terraces and two outdoor restaurants, as well as the open-air cinema. Framed by dark cypress and cedar trees, the suites, villas, and two-story maisonettes cater to every combination of adults and children with teak canopy beds and fine Italian linens. Just as enchanting as the setting are Emelisse’s myriad activities. Guests can sign up for scuba lessons and tennis matches, or take a 25-minute walk to the quaint port town of Fiskardo. If you’re looking for more adventurous pursuits, the largest of the Ionian islands offers everything from steep cliffs and mountains (Mount Aenos is the third highest in Greece) to stunning sand and pebble shorelines.

If you’re looking for a pizzeria, this is the place; you will find the best pizzas in town—in a perfect location. Pizzeria Casanova was opened by Maria Paola Porru, an Italian woman living in Portugal for 30 years.

With long tables, the chances of meeting a stranger or making a new friend are quite good. There is a nice terrace outside (heated in winter and freshened in summer) just in front of the river, though the view can be blocked when a cruise ship is in town.

Inside, you can see the thin-crust pizzas coming out of the oven, and lamps above your head allow you to “call” the waiter via a switch.

By the way, if you have a desire for pizza at midnight, catch the metro to Santa Apolónia—where the kitchen is still open but you will probably find a line, even at that time.

Built in 1525 as the family home of Doge Andrea Gritti, this antique-stocked palazzo has rooms with mosaic floors, hand-painted furniture, and panoramic views of the Grand Canal. Murano glass chandeliers and sconces light up the hotel that Ernest Hemingway called “the best hotel in a city of great hotels.”

Hotel Gritti Palace, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, Venice, 39/041-794611. From $519. This story appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.

The doorway of the Portrait Roma is one of a growing number of blink-and-you-miss-it boutique hotel entrances behind which contemporary luxuries await. Tucked behind an unassuming facade on a side street off the busy Via dei Condotti, the Portrait Roma is part of the Lungarno Collection, a small group of boutique hotels owned by the Ferragamo fashion house. Opened in 2006, the property prides itself on customized service, and each of the rooms comes with a Lifestyle Manager, or 24-hour concierge, who provides personalized holiday management throughout the stay based partly on the guest questionnaire completed before arrival.

All 14 rooms are suites, and each is classically decorated and designed to mirror the prestige of the Ferragamo brand. Rooms are accented with linen, leather, and cashmere, as well as artwork that evokes the beauty and spirit of Ferragamo. Weather permitting, the rooftop terrace hosts food and drink service and offers views of the historic center.

Bar Basso is one of the oldest cocktail bars in Milan. It’s appeared in many films and is a piece of history in the city. It’s always been a privileged meeting place for designers, journalists, artists, and writers. Here you can taste the best international drinks dipped in a real atmosphere of an Italian bar. Between the hours of 6 p.m. and 8 p.m., the Milanese file into their neighborhood bars and fashionable watering holes. They elbow their way to the bar and partake in one of the city’s long-held social traditions: the aperitivo. Strictly speaking, an aperitivo is a pre-meal drink served to whet your appetite or, as the Italians say, to “open your stomach,” commonly with drinks such as Campari and orange juice or Cinzano on ice.

Start by seeking out the country’s beer-brewing monks.

Chef Cristian Angiolin heads up the kitchen at this Venetian lagoon institution, which is open year-round except for January and Tuesdays. The restaurant is no longer a part of the Cipriani franchise, which began in Venice and has since expanded to places like New York and Miami.

What you come here for is the restaurant’s garden, which is open from late spring to early autumn and is one of the best places in the lagoon to visit with a large group of friends and celebrate into the evening. The bartenders make the best negronis and have an extensive wine list that includes pours from most regions on the Italian peninsula. If you don’t want to be marooned on Torcello Island, come for lunch. But it’s another one of those amazing dining spots with rooms, so that if you do come for dinner and miss the last boat back to Venice, you can always check into the hotel.

Why we love it: A top Cabos stay with low-key sophistication and activity-focused fun

Highlights:
- Multi-bedroom villas for easy family vacations
- Activities like water sports, beachfront fitness classes, golf, and more
- One of the best restaurants in Los Cabos, right on property

The Review:
Esperanza has become something of a hospitality legend in Los Cabos, so it makes sense that Auberge Resorts’ sister property, Chileno Bay, has style and substance right out of the gate. Located on one of the area’s only swimmable beaches, the resort makes use of its prime location with a water sports center that offers glass-bottomed kayaks, snorkel gear outfitted with GoPro cameras, and more. If you’d rather stay on dry land, the property also provides access to hiking on UNESCO-protected mountain, camel-back rides through the Baja Outback, and dune buggy excursions on the shoreline.

Of course, no one would fault you for laying low by the triple-tiered pool, which winds down like a river to the beach; relaxing at the holistic spa with a salt inhalation room and reflexology pool; or even simply staying in your room. Here, the 60 earth-and-sea-hued guest rooms provide comfort in the way of spacious bathrooms with soaking tubs and private terraces with outdoor showers; some suites have infinity-edge plunge pools and outdoor hot rubs, while 32 multi-bedroom villas include fully equipped kitchens and expansive rooftop terraces with fireplaces. When it comes time to eat, there’s French Laundry alum Yvan Mucharraz’s modern Mexican restaurant Comal, plus a beachside taco bar and a courtyard coffee shop.

An enviable location in the quietly upscale embassy quarter on the edge of sprawling Tiergarten Park is only part of SO Berlin Das Stue’s appeal. Occupying a graceful, gray-stone 1930s building that once housed the Danish embassy, the hotel features soothing, sophisticated interiors by Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola, who decorated the public areas with animal sculptures—a reference to the neighboring zoo—and colorful, comfortable furnishings. Two original travertine staircases lead up to the 78 rooms and suites, which offer a blend of modern conveniences (rain showers, HD entertainment systems, and iMacs in each room) and considered design touches (black-and-white fashion photographs, hardwood floors, sliding walls, handle-less cupboards), plus views of either the park or the zoo. Guests can enjoy the hotel’s glamorous work and relaxation areas—some with libraries of books on art and design, fashion, and architecture—as well as a spa offering holistic Susanne Kaufmann treatments, and a fitness center with an indoor swimming pool and Finnish sauna. The new staff uniforms come from Viktor & Rolf. Dining options include a chic bar serving light bites (and live music every other Friday); The Casual, offering all-day shareable plates both indoors and out; and the Michelin-starred, Mediterranean-accented Cinco from chef Paco Pérez. A newer wing, designed by Axthelm Architects, features rooms with more direct views of the zoo—which hotel guests can access via the terrace’s exclusive private entrance.

Set on 12 lush, cloud-forested acres next to the Urumbamba River, this eco-resort (a member of the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World) is practically a destination in and of itself. Here, 83 rustic-but-chic, whitewashed adobe casitas are tucked among a sanctuary of terraced hills, stone paths, and waterfalls that are home to 214 bird species and, at 372 cataloged varieties, the largest collection of native orchids in the world. Guests are encouraged to hike around the grounds (the hotel can also arrange for excursions farther afield), visit the resort’s Ecocenter, or relax in a naturally heated spring-water pool while listening to birdsong.

The superior casitas are the simplest accommodations, but still come with plush robes, hand-crafted Andean slippers, and a separate dining area. Superior deluxe rooms feature fireplaces, while suites offer terraces with garden views. The most lavish option, the Villa Inkaterra includes an open-air shower, plunge pool, and 24-hour butler service. When not luxuriating in your room, visit the glass-walled restaurant, which has stunning views of the river, or head into Agua Calientes, which is just a few minutes away and offers several other dining options.

Especially after its recent $35 milllion refurbishment, Four Seasons Costa Rica sets the standard for service and luxury in Costa Rica’s burgeoning luxury resort market. Its location is unmatched: perched atop a narrow isthmus, overlooking beaches on both sides, at the very tip of the Papagayo Peninsula. Three swimming pools form the hub of action, spanning the width of the peninsula; on one side of the enormous main pool is an adult pool leading to serene Playa Virador on the Pacific, while the busier family pool leads down to Playa Blanca, where most of the water activities happen—snorkeling, stand-up paddling, kayaking. There’s also an 18-hole Arnold Palmer–designed golf course that’s been tamed from the surrounding jungle. Guest rooms have marble baths, and outdoor terraces or verandas, while the larger suites (one- and three-bedroom) include their own pools. For light dining options, try the ceviche offerings poolside at Bahia or Italian seafood at Pesce. For a splurge, head to Caracol at the golf course for steaks and lobster tail.

Expat Dell Taylor (from New Zealand) left accounting for the restaurant business over a decade ago in Santiago when the concept of brunch did not yet exist. Café Melba was born and quickly became the place to get real french toast with real maple syrup, pancakes, eggs benedict and frothy cappuccinos. Her empire has since expanded from the El Golf locale within Las Condes (and adding alcohol to the menu for mimosas). Arrive early to get a table or be prepared to wait. Good venue for families. Don Carlos 2898, Loc 1 (Cross street El Bosque Norte) Phone: 56 (2) 2232 4546

At the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon, above the town of Sandy, Utah, the Alta Resort offers 2,200 skiable acres and an average of more than 550 inches of snowfall a year. While the steep slopes of the Wasatch mountains draw expert skiers, there is plenty of terrain for intermediate skiers and a number of programs within the ski school to get beginners and first-timers out and enjoying themselves. As for families, even those with little ones as young as two months old, day care is available all day long and into the early evening through Alta Children’s Center, and on Fridays and Saturdays until 6:30 p.m. with its Après-Ski Care. To get tykes skiing and on the slopes, Alta partners with the ski school.