Santiago

Nestled at the foot of the snow-covered Andes, Santiago was often overlooked en route to farther-flung destinations like Patagonia or the Atacama Desert. Today, it’s boom times in the modern, cosmopolitan Chilean capital. It’s where past meets present with colonial architecture and shiny skyscrapers, shady parks and nearby ski slopes, traditional markets and a burgeoning food scene, pre-Columbian art and avant-garde galleries—all in a delightfully warm climate that nourishes a thriving wine industry.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Santiago?

Santiago’s mild climate is similar to parts of California or the Mediterranean. Seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere. From October to April (the drier, warmer months), little to no rainfall occurs and temperatures reach the upper 80s. Winter sees a few rainy days, with high temperatures in the 50s and an increase in smog. Come prepared with layers year-round.

How to get around Santiago

Arturo Merino Benitez airport (SCL) sits about 20 minutes west of central Santiago. Book a “radio taxi” (look for Taxi Oficial or TransVip) at the baggage area inside the airport; it costs US$35–$45 depending on where you’re headed in the capital. TransVip also has a shared shuttle. Or you can take the Centro Puerto bus to the Los Heroes bus terminal.

The metro is the fastest and most efficient way to get across the city with its ever-increasing traffic, though trains can be full during rush hour. Most rides cost US$1.20-1.40 depending on the time of day. Buses, too, traverse the city. Buy a Bip! card for rides on both trains and buses. Taxis are readily available and safe off the street. In the evening, take a radio taxi and use the app Safer Taxi to locate a nearby driver.

Can’t miss things to do in Santiago

On the other side of the Mapocho River is La Vega Central, Santiago’s main wholesale market, lively with the seasonal abundance of Chile’s warm valleys. Sprawling for several city blocks like a labyrinth, the colorful stalls and carts of this foodie paradise are a great place to find real Chilean food.

Food and drink to try in Santiago

Santiago is the hub of the food and wine movement that has taken over Chile in the past five years. Visit a local feria (fresh market) or the iconic La Vega Central to sample the abundance of the long Central Valley. Young, innovative chefs are now experimenting with “Chilean Nouveau” cuisine in places like Boragó. Don’t miss the iconic spots Chileans frequent for sandwiches, completos (hot dogs with the works), and empanadas. For a taste of Chilean wines, a must-sip in the capital is Bocanariz.

Culture in Santiago

The contemporary art scene is concentrated downtown on Parque Forestal, anchored by the Fine Arts Museum with its permanent collection and the adjoining MAC (Contemporary Art Museum). Nearby, off cobblestoned Lastarria, the MAVI (Visual Arts Museum) hosts modern exhibitions, and the cultural center known as GAM (Gabriela Mistral) offers concerts, exhibitions, and dance. Off the main square, the Museo Pre-Colombino showcases pre-Columbian art. The gallery scene is strong with established dealers and young upstarts in the Barrio Italia and Nueva Costanera areas. Chile’s national dance, cueca, is making a comeback, with nightclubs hosting a local form called cueca brava. In west Santiago, the Museo de la Memoria commemorates human rights abuses during Augusto Pinochet’s military regime of 1973–1990. Many visitors also make the pilgrimage to Nobel Prize–winning poet Pablo Neruda’s home La Chascona, in Bellavista.

Santiago a Mil, or “Santiago by the Thousands” is the city’s largest festival. Held during January, this three-week event features both open-air and indoor theater performances. In September, when Independence Day kicks off spring, many Chileans head to Parque Intercomunal Padre Hurtado for a rodeo, games, and traditional foods such as empanadas and antecuchos (meat skewers).

Local travel tips for Santiago

As car ownership grows, so does the traffic. Whenever possible, avoid rush hour (7:30–9 a.m. and 6–8:00 p.m.). During the summer months of January and February, many Santiaguinos head to the coast, leaving the city delightfully “empty.” Many restaurants close mid-February for vacation. Santiago is generally a safe city, but pickpocketing can happen in crowded areas. Leave your bling in the hotel, be discreet with your phone and camera, and always be aware of your belongings.

Guide Editor

Liz Caskey

Liz Caskey is partner of Liz Caskey Culinary & Wine Experiences, a boutique travel operator based in Santiago, Chile, and an American freelance food & travel writer who has called Santiago, Chile home for over 14 years. She focuses on weaving together the region’s unique cuisine, wine, culture, and characters in stories and pictures (with her Chilean husband, a photographer). Follow her adventures in South America on her blog, Eat Wine, or find her on twitter @lizcaskey.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Hit a reopened California highway, chase dark skies in Arkansas, and toast the grape harvest in Chile this April.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
No apologies for screen-staring while you eat or drink here: Insert Coin is all about ingesting entertainment from the multiple arcade games, PlayStations, and Nintendo systems while sipping a novelty drink like a Dive the Tower or a Kong Blast, or munching on the restaurant’s snacky menu. Use the on-table consoles for free as long as you are consuming. Fridays and Saturdays get so busy you might have to wait for a game-equipped table.
As the name suggests, you can shout your order from the sidewalk and by the time you get to the counter, they’ve already served up your empanadas. Try the time-tested caldo mayo, a house-specialty beef broth that’s a perfect hangover remedy, especially with spicy salsa de ají, or hot pepper salsa, on top. Members of the Chilean judiciary are often seen here having a tintito, a dainty glass of red wine, before beginning the day’s proceedings. El Rapido opened in the thirties and has been operating ever since—don’t miss this quaint and tasty bit of history.
The beef goes back centuries, and will never be entirely resolved: what are the true origins of pisco, a grape-based, aguardiente distillate that became a national symbol of Chile…and Peru. To end the conflict, the people behind this bar and restaurant invented a new, independent republic dedicated to Pisco that is known as Chipe Libre. Inside a vast Lastarria mansion, this imaginary state unites lands in southern Peru and northern Chile, in obeisance to a sole monarch, pisco. The bar features a good 100 labels and cocktails like “Pisco’s in the Air,” made with lime juice, raspberry, papaya and basil; plus a full range of what are among Santiago’s best traditional sours. Standout food include the crunchy-seafood saltado (marinated and grilled beef strips), with mango, served on a sizzling grill; the joint’s star sandwich, El Presidente, is a solid slice of roast beef, fried egg, and shoestring potatoes. To avoid any sovereignty disputes, Chipe Libre flies its red-and-black, center-starred flag as the republic’s national colors.
Conquistador Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago here on February 12, 1541. Eventually two Spanish fortresses were erected on the hill, alongside early hermitages and Chile’s first astronomical observatory. You’ll also find one of the capital’s oldest public promenades, originally from the Spanish-colonial period—lined by the statuary, fountains, and gardens of subsequent centuries—twisting uphill through gardens and past trees that have been preserved over the centuries. These days, couples and students favor the park for long afternoons spent beneath the boughs. Don’t miss the monumental entrance, as well as a Spanish escutcheon in stone, the park’s castle, and the 360˚ city views. For those who like traditions, a blast from an 1824 cannon announces the stroke of noon to Santiago residents each day.
The Aubrey sits at the edge of Barrio Bellavista, a few steps from Santiago’s bottle-green 1925 funicular (which takes visitors up to Cerro San Cristóbal) and just below the zoo (sometimes guests can hear the animals when they’re lying by the pool). Open since 2010, this 15-bedroom boutique hotel is housed between two 1920s mansions built by the same architect. The larger of the two houses once belonged to famed Chilean railway magnate Domingo Durán. Today, the hotel is owned by a Brit and an Aussie who spent $3 million and several years transforming it into its current state.

The bedrooms are split between the two mansions, and there’s also an outside block housing a few pool suites. A cobbled terrace runs between the restaurant and piano bar. The interiors are inspired by the early 20th-century art deco movement and feature statement art deco furniture, printed fabrics, and elaborate wallpaper.
Atop towering Cerro San Cristóbal, there are two municipal pools where many families go to cool off during the summer: Tupahue and Antilén. Conveniently, these all have fabulous views of the city below. However, they do come with a price tag of US$12 for the lower-elevation Tupahue, and US$15 for Antilén, which keeps crowds to manageable levels in January and February.
There’s a powerful love for the 80s in Chile and in no other club does this shine through like at Blondie. The nightclub is tucked away in a retail shopping center in a gritty area of La Alameda. You’ll hear anything 80s from New Wave to techno, goth rock, and theme nights like Pet Shop Boys, Bowie, Madonna, even 90s nights. There are also live concerts from local rock bands like Lucybell. A favorite place to party with the gay community and university students. Alameda 2879 (Metro ULA)
Founded in 1879, Confitería Torres is Santiago‘s oldest restaurant still functioning, and a popular lunch destination. Housed in the Palacio Íñiguez on the stately Alameda avenue, the restaurant was saved from closing nearly a decade ago and completely restored to its former glory, with green-and-white hand-painted tile floors, lace curtains, and elegant waiters. It’s located near the government palace, and frequented by many politicians and presidents; former president Barros Lucos always ordered a steak and cheese sandwich here (the sandwich was christened with his name). The menu sticks to traditional Chilean cuisine and the bartender whips up some delicious pisco sours. Crowded at lunch time so reservations a good idea. Alameda 1570, Santiago Centro Phone: 56 (2) 2688 0751
La Feria was the first deep house club in Santiago, open for over 15 years. After undergoing a renovation in 2012, it is back on the radars of hipsters and lovers of electronica in the capital. Opening Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, the club brings in well known local and international DJs who have Santiaguinos dancing till the break of dawn. Constitución 275, Bellavista Phone: 56 (2) 2735 8433
The mercury during summer afternoons can hit 34C (or around 95F). How to stay cool during the hottest time of the day (4-6pm)? Besides seeking shade or air-conditioning, Santiaguinos seek solace in a traditional drink called “mote con huesillos.” Huesillos, sun-dried peaches, are cooked with water and a touch of sugar. The liquid and fruit are chilled and served with a scoop of toothy golden barley. Mote con huesillo is sold by vendors throughout downtown. More than a drink, it’s a satisfying, healthy snack.