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When I told friends I was going to Papua New Guinea eyebrows were raised; when I mentioned I was staying with a Highlands tribe, jaws dropped. I flew into Tari, a small dusty town with a small dusty airstrip and there I got my first sight of the Huli wigmen. The tribe’s Fortune Teller, traditionally dressed with “arse grass” covering his behind, an ornamental wig made of his own hair, and a cassowary quill through his nose, was in complete contrast to the plane that he’d come to meet. The following day I began my time with the tribe itself and was lucky enough to meet this Wigman preparing for a sing sing – a traditional celebratory dance. I sat down beside him as he prepared his face: an ‘undercoat’ of oily white, then a clay ochre base and finally earthly red highlights. Using hand signals he demonstrated what he was going to do next, before picking up a broken mirror and carefully applying the final strokes. He may not have fully realised how brilliant he looked in the afternoon Sun, but for me, watching him go through this ritual was more inspiring than the dance itself.

For something beautiful, unique and quintessentially Chinese, you’ll want to pick up a yak-wool knit from Shokay. This incredible social enterprise works with yak farmers in Western China to teach them how to harvest the finest down from their yaks. From here the wool is sent to a group of trained spinners who work their magic, turning the down into the most luxurious, soft yarn. Further transformed into elegant wraps, scarves, jewelry, hats, mittens, throws and pillows, Shokay’s collection offers perfect locally-made, ethically-sourced, beautiful gifts to take home. Store Location: InShop, 1605 West Nanjing Road (Just above JingAn Temple Metro Station, Line 7/Gate 10). Tucked back on aisle “D”, you’ll find Shokay’s pieces in an open space boasting a collection of Shanghai-based designers and labels. And for a true adventure, SHOKAY has transformed its knitting cooperative on Chongming Island into an open textiles workshop. Just over an hour away from Shanghai, the creative space welcomes visitors to spend the afternoon relaxing, joining in knitting classes, or custom ordering hand knit pieces from yak down. For more information, visit their website.

Brussels’ largest gourmet supermarket, Rob, is well worth the trip outside the city centre for dedicated foodies. This market is filled with all of the finest grocery items from around Europe. This is where locals go to buy hard-to-find ingredients and where expats go to find their favourite tastes of home. There are vast meat, seafood, cheese and deli counters and the bakery is a pastry-lover’s dream. Rob stocks chocolate from all of Brussels’ top chocolatiers for the ultimate in one-stop Belgian chocolate shopping. The wine selection here is beyond compare. Everyday wines and spirits can be found in the main shop but if you’re looking for something really special, descend into the basement. Here you will find a dedicated wine cellar with sommeliers on hand to help you choose the perfect bottle. If your tastes run to high-end whiskeys, vodkas, cognacs and the like, there is also a dedicated shop just for you. It’s kept under lock and key and if you have to ask the prices, it’s best to move along. Visit on a Saturday when the shop demonstrators are active and you can taste your way around Europe.

Downtown Hagatna is one of the few places where you can view relics from Guam’s almost 400-year history as a Spanish colony. The first stop on a tour of downtown is Plaza de Espana, which housed a sprawling Governor’s Palace during the colonial era. Today, only the handful of structures remain, including a covered Azotea, Garden House, and Chocolate House, where governors used to entertain guests. Next, stop in at the Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral-Basilica, the religious hub for Guam’s predominantly Catholic population. The original church was constructed in 1669 under the leadership of Padre San Vitores, a Spanish missionary who is credited with spreading Catholicism in the Marianas Islands. The current structure is more recent, dating back to 1959. Finally, head across the street to Senator Angel Leon Guerrero Santos Memorial Park, better known as Latte Stone Park. The park contains eight examples of traditional latte stones, stone pillars that are said to have been used by the ancient Chamorros for building. Today, the latte is an important symbol of Chamorro identity, and this park is one of the few places where you can view them.

Doña Olga* is a large kiosk in Piñones, from which the smell of fritters wafts all the way to the beach. I often find myself getting a large order of bacalaitos (round cod fritters), empanadillas (turnovers), alcapurrias (dough of plantains or yucca and filled with meat), and piononos (deep-fried sweet plantain balls stuffed with meat and cheese). Halfway through the meal, I start thinking my eyes are bigger than my stomach, but the flood of Puerto Rican flavors in my mouth makes me devour every last morsel in front of me. Of course, there’s no way I’d be able to handle all that without a refreshing drink on hand. My drink of choice is coconut water. (It’s completely natural; an employee will chop off the top of the coconut with a machete and bring it to you with a straw.) After you drink the water, you can scoop out coconut meat (the white stuff), which serves as a pleasantly light dessert. A swim in the nearby beach (two minutes away walking) and a nice nap will perfect your day. *Doña Olga is my first choice, but this whole road is bursting with beachside kiosks selling fritters and other Puerto Rican fare.

The tree limbs were heavy with freshly fallen snow, providing a peaceful backdrop to this entirely eerie place. I had made my way outside Berlin, to the little community of Beelitz on this snowy Easter weekend, to photograph Beelitz Heilstätten, a sanatorium for tuberculosis treatment methods in the early 20th century. I took the photo tour to the women’s section of the sanatorium, and we were able to walk around the snowy grounds and inside three main buildings and photograph to our heart’s content. I love these tours, since they are a great setting to practice with lighting and composition. The tour information was provided only in German, but there were enough people there to translate for me. And honestly, I was there to do photography, so I didn’t need much guidance. The leader simply gives an overview of the history, buildings, and things to be careful of, or special things to see; he hands you a blueprint layout of the buildings; and then you are own your own for 4-5 hours to explore! The ultimate photography tour, if you ask me! More information: http://www.ottsworld.com/blogs/berlin-photo-tours/

Let’s face it, Stockholm is three things for travelers: It’s cold. It’s expensive. And it’s home to some of the most gorgeous human specimens on this dear planet of ours. I may have found the perfect place to remedy these issues, should they be considered as such—Gilda’s Café. Set in the heart of the boho district of Södermalm in south Stockholm, Gilda’s is the perfect place to shelter from the cold with a warm cup of coffee in hand, inexpensive pastries (fika, anyone?), and some good old people watching. Trust me when I say that people watching does not get any better than in Stockholm. Locals are very fond of hipster ways. They are relaxed, friendly, and could all be on the front cover of a fashion magazine. Beautiful people aside, Gilda’s is a little slice of heaven on its own. Think unmatched tableware, indie music, eclectic furniture, and delicious homemade dishes. Worlds away from the compartmentalism and practicality of Ikea. The change of scenery is most welcome and enjoyable. Save your precious kronors, daydream about a handsome Swedish Viking while sipping a comforting latte, and go to Gilda’s. It’s the ultimate south Stockholm thing to do, and you won’t regret it.

Night markets are a quintessential Taiwan experience. Young couples, families, retirees, and swarms of teenagers descend upon these markets to graze, gossip, flirt, play, and graze some more. Lately, the ones in Taipei have been over-run by camera-toting tourists. For a real local experience, head to the charming town of Tainan. Generally laid-back and filled with colonial relics left behind by the Dutch and Japanese, Tainan also has one of the liveliest--and most local--night markets I’ve been to in recent years. Plunge into the food stall section and try specialties like oyster omelets, hand-made mochi filled with peanut or black sesame, and sausages made with sticky rice. Then head over to the cacophonous games section and watch punters try their luck for an enormous stuffed animal. (The kiddie ping-pong version of pachinko is particularly amusing/perturbing.) Had enough? Push you way back through the crowds and if you’re in luck, you’ll find the vendor selling the most exquisite pink guava mixed with sour plum powder.

Built in 1525 as the family home of Doge Andrea Gritti, this antique-stocked palazzo has rooms with mosaic floors, hand-painted furniture, and panoramic views of the Grand Canal. Murano glass chandeliers and sconces light up the hotel that Ernest Hemingway called “the best hotel in a city of great hotels.”

Hotel Gritti Palace, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, Venice, 39/041-794611. From $519. This story appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.

In the middle of a private courtyard in Hyderabad lies a workshop where several women sit at traditional looms. The women, who are all widows, weave intricate cotton-and-silk floral patterns by hand as part of the Suraiya weaving center. Suraiya Hassan Bose, 83, started the center out of her home a little over 27 years ago to revive local and regional weaves which have nearly died out since they’re very time consuming and still not very lucrative. At the center, visitors can watch the weaving process from spooling to the rythmic loom work that takes two people (one to guide the pattern from above and the other to pedal the loom and weave the threads.) It takes about a month to make a three-meter piece of fabric, but luckily the women at Suraiya earn a fixed wage regardless of whether the fabrics sell. I arrived during a tea break, in which I got to meet with these lovely ladies before they got back to work. 1-86, Darga Hussain Shah Wali, Raidurg, Behind Traffic Police Station, O.u.colony Road, Mehdipatnam To Gachibowli Road., Hyderabad

The Cayo District is home to many of Belize’s ancient Maya sites, including one of the largest, Xunantunich. Located atop a ridge near the Mopan River and the Guatemala border, Xunantunich’s “El Castillo,” the main pyramid, is certainly the most impressive. Visitors who brave the steep steps to the top are rewarded with unsurpassed views into Guatemala and neighboring areas of Belize. While the climb up can be pretty steep and rough, there are other routes to get down along the backside that make the descent a little easier. It took me multiple visits to finally gather the courage to climb to the top, but I’m grateful I did, as the views were absolutely worth it! Organized tours to Xunantunich often combine with other activities like zip-lining, cave tubing, or even trips to the Belize Zoo. Travelers who wish to explore all of Xunantunich’s six plazas, which contain more than 26 temples and palaces, should plan to book a private tour or visit on their own.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Adorned with more than 20,000 blue handcrafted İznik tiles, stained-glass windows, and the golden brushstrokes of a 17th-century calligrapher, the Blue Mosque is the legacy of Sultan Ahmet I (1590–1617). The young sultan audaciously wished to outdo the builders of Hagia Sophia, commissioning six minarets to match the number at Mecca’s Sacred Mosque (which now has seven minarets as a result). Today, this magnificent mosque is a place of worship for thousands who visit from around the world.

Hands down the best place to stay in Mexico City’s Centro Histórico is the aptly named Downtown. Located inside a restored 17th-century casona (mansion), the hotel shares its property with a select group of Mexican businesses, including a chocolate boutique and a mezcal bar, as well as restaurants, cafes, and fashion and jewelry ateliers. Appropriately, rooms evoke a bygone era, with low lighting, brick ceilings, and tile floors somewhat reminiscent of a monastery. Amenities are spare but select (C.O. Bigelow toiletries, for starters), and service is unobtrusive but attentive. After a day spent exploring the city, head to the rooftop pool and bar, where you can sunbathe on a bright yellow chaise lounge or sit under an oversized umbrella while waiting for your cocktail to arrive.

In 2007, hedge fund investor Jim Manley bought a working cattle ranch on the site of a historic silver-mining claim to stake as his bigger-than-life family retreat. In 2010, he opened up the Ranch at Rock Creek, a toy-filled haven in southwest Montana’s Big Sky Country, with 13 houses with one to five bedrooms, luxurious canvas cabins for “glamping,” or a nine-room granite lodge. All are decorated by designer Jet Zarkadas and feature Oriental carpets, deep leather chairs, cow skin and woven Navajo rugs, custom duvet covers, and period Western photos and memorabilia. Despite the remote location and 5,200-foot elevation, all accommodations have landline, working Wi-Fi, and cell phone coverage; some have moose antlers, a private sauna, outdoor hot tub, and indoor copper bathtub.

Open year-round, the 10-square-mile property encompasses meadows, high country lakes, grassy ridges, and stunning vistas of the Pintler and Sapphire mountains. This self-contained adventureland offers horseback riding; heli-hiking; fly-fishing; river floating; high-tech mountain biking; rope courses; trap shooting; and archery on a 3D course using powerful hunting bows to shoot life-sized models of animals. Weekly rodeo and stagecoach rides underscore the Western theme; in winter, guests cross-country ski, ice skate, and snowshoe on-site. A kids’ club frees parents for spa time and other pursuits.