Shanghai

Once a tiny fishing village, Shanghai is a thriving metropolitan hub with an incredible history. Here, East meets West, old marries new, and the running joke is that the city is constantly under construction. With a population of nearly 24 million, the various quarters give this mega-city a surprisingly neighborhoodlike feel. The incredible diversity of people is reflected in the richness of the culture, cuisine, and architecture. Shanghai is a city on the go, so before you get swept away in the flow or jostled out of your place in line, be sure to find a spot to slow down, plant your feet, and take it all in.

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Photo Courtesy of Trujillo/Paumier

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Shanghai?

While every season has its charms and challenges, spring and fall are simply stunning. The weather just begs you to come out and stroll around the sun-dappled streets of the former French Concession or find a rooftop perch from which to take in the city. As the weather becomes more unpredictable, it’s wise to check the forecast, but don’t worry, if you get stuck in the middle of a downpour, umbrella sellers have a knack of appearing out of nowhere to peddle rain gear.

How to get around Shanghai

Shanghai has two airports, Pudong and Hongqiao, both of which are now connected by metro (Line 2/Green). When flying into Pudong, you can chop considerable time off your trip downtown by jumping on the maglev and either taking the metro into town from there or grabbing a taxi to your final destination. Buses also run from both airports to various points in the city center at frequent intervals (cost is 12-30 RMB, or less than $5), just check the signs at the airport. Taxis are an easy option, but it helps to have your destination printed in Chinese if you don’t speak any Mandarin.

Shanghai has a fabulous public transportation system, making it quite easy and affordable to traverse the city. Explore Shanghai is a handy way to find stations as well as calculate time and cost. You can pick up a Shanghai Public Transportation Card at the service counter in any metro station for a refundable deposit of 20 RMB. These cards, once topped up, can be used to pay for buses, metro rides, ferries, the maglev, and even taxis, saving you from digging for loose change as you travel. Taxis are also easy to catch and relatively affordable.

Can’t miss things to do in Shanghai

Start the morning off at the Bund. Get there in time to catch the sunrise and stroll along the promenade to see the fan dancers, the backwards walkers, and the groups practicing tai chi. There’s something magical about this waterfront stretch in the mornings. Take in the beauty, the culture, and the history of the city, all while gazing at the growing skyline across the river.

Food and drink to try in Shanghai

A veritable melting pot of cultural influences, the restaurant selection is as diverse and vibrant as the city’s residents. From Michelin star–rated chefs to mom-and-pop, hole-in-the-wall eateries and food carts lining street corners after the sun sets, you can easily eat your way through the city several times over. And while you can dine on authentic Turkish, Russian, or Argentinean feasts, don’t leave the city without sampling China’s various regional cuisines. From sweet to spicy to salty to… well, bizarre, the diversity of the country is reflected in its food, and really, you haven’t experienced China until you’ve tried the stinky tofu. Take a crash course on the classic cuisine of Shanghai cuisine by signing up for a curated meal at at Xiao Baihua, shared with an expert on the topic and set up by AFAR’s partner, Context Tours.

Culture in Shanghai

Check the listings in Smart Shanghai because hardly a day goes by without a show—ballet, theater, art exhibitions, or music. And for a soulful evening as iconically Shanghai as it is global, consider attending one of the nightly Chinese Acrobatic Shows or catching live jazz at the Cotton Club or House of Blues and Jazz.

Along with fabulous music festivals in the spring and late summer (Midi, Strawberry, JZ), Shanghai also has numerous “international” cultural gatherings such as the Shanghai International Fashion Cultural Festival (March 2014), the International Film Festival (June 2014), and the International Fitness Festival (Nov 2104).

Local travel tips for Shanghai

- A few words of Chinese will get you far and are usually always appreciated.
- For your own sanity, avoid the metro at rush hour.
- When at any market, always bargain—always.
- You don’t need to tip in Shanghai.
- Dip your dumplings in vinegar, they’re better that way.

Guide Editor

Christy Campbell is a freelance travel writer and owner of a small branding and communications business, Black Bear Ink. When she’s not exploring new places or getting lost in her backyard, she’s practicing the art of storytelling on Lane Letters.
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Historic Shanghai’s tours and events are the closest you’ll can come to traveling back in time to Shanghai’s golden age. The group was founded by longtime Shanghai residents Tess Johnston, Tina Kanagaratnam, and Patrick Cranley. They host myriad cultural events—author talks, lectures, screenings—as well as tours of Shanghai’s historic sites and neighborhoods. All three owners are architecture buffs, and together they have an encyclopedic knowledge of Shanghai’s Western architecture, past and present. Tours and walks run a couple of times per month, covering topics like Americans in Old Shanghai, Old Shanghai’s nightclubs, and the regeneration of Yangpu District.
There’s always a line in front of this hole-in-the-wall, but don’t be deterred: Jia Jia’s queue moves fast, and its steamed soup dumplings are worth the wait. When it’s your turn to order, you bark what you want—pork, crab, or pork and crab xiao long bao—pay, and move to the side to claim a plastic table. The only sounds in the restaurant are tapping chopsticks, satisfied slurping, and the occasional camera shutter. Jia Jia closes when it sell out, usually by early evening. And while the crab dumplings are available year-round, they’re absolutely incredible between September and December.
You don’t know you need a paperweight shaped like a dumpling until you see it. Hidden behind sliding doors on an unassuming street corner in Shanghai‘s Jing’an District, Spin is the best place in the city to buy modern Chinese ceramics. The shop works with artists in Jingdezhen, China’s porcelain capital, to make original, limited-edition works of art at competitive prices, from a small porcelain and wood display table to delicate celadon-green teacups and dainty chopstick rests shaped like chili peppers. Spin ships worldwide at a reasonable cost, so you don’t have to worry about lugging a vase the size of a small child through Asia.
Architecture lovers flock to the Huangpu River’s western side to stroll the Bund, a waterfront tourist magnet in central Shanghai. There’s a glorious mishmash of late-19th- and early-20th-century styles here, from Gothic revival to art deco. Walk by the Fairmont Peace Hotel—first opened in 1929 as the Cathay Hotel—to behold its copper pyramid roof turned aqua with age. (Talk about aging gracefully.) Then hit the marble-floored HSBC Building (No. 12) to admire the domed ceiling’s eight mosaic murals, with frescoes depicting the 12 zodiac signs.
One of Shanghai’s most fascinating museums is hidden in the basement of a French Concession high-rise. Yang Pei Ming started collecting Maoist-era (1949–1979) propaganda posters in 1995—first as a hobby, and then to preserve these important historical and cultural relics. (The Chinese government destroyed many old posters for political reasons.) Thanks to Ming’s diligence, the museum has nearly 6,000 originals you won’t see anywhere else, from woodblock prints by Chinese autoworkers to intricate Shanghai Lady cigarette ads and neon-red armbands. The gift shop sells large and small reprints as well as postcards and kitschy souvenirs.
Completed in 1994, the Oriental Pearl TV tower was the tallest building in Shanghai until 2007 and is still arguably one of the most recognizable towers in Shanghai’s skyline. The tower actually has 15 observation floors but the highest is at 350m and is affectionately known as the “Space Module”. The tower also includes a revolving restaurant, a shopping mall, a museum and even a 20+ room hotel. There’s also a glass-floored observation deck for the brave-footed. Open 8:30-21:30 daily Ticket prices vary (depending on what you’d like to see/do) from RMB 120-220
There’s no better place to enjoy authentic Shanghainese food than inside a 1920s Spanish villa. Right? Right! Take a seat at one of Fu 1088’s vintage tables, and get ready to savor a parade of elegantly plated local dishes. If you’re keen to try a classic Shanghai dish (or you’re all about unapologetically rich cuisine), order the hongshao rou (red braised pork). Or enjoy the lighter tea-smoked duck eggs and drunken chicken made with rice wine and topped with goji berries. The appetizers here skew a bit more modern, with deep-fried prawns with wasabi mayonnaise stealing the show. Note: There’s a minimum per person spend of about $46 at lunch and $77 at dinner.
You can find this Shanghai stalwart just around the corner from the Portman Ritz-Carlton, plying eager diners with prototypical Shanghai dishes around the clock (and all-you-can-eat dim sum on the weekends). Locals here tuck into hairy crab soup (the crab comes from nearby Yangcheng Lake), lobster fried rice, sheng jian bao (pan-fried soup dumplings), Shanghai crispy duck (an umami-packed take on Peking duck), and, from the dim sum menu, fresh tofu vegetable rolls. If you’ve got limited time and want to taste both Shanghainese classics and proper dim sum, Lynn is the place.
The first new building to be constructed on the Bund in 60 years, the terraced, granite Peninsula opened in October 2009. Celebrating the city’s Roaring Twenties, the standalone hotel creates a grand sense of arrival with a sweeping driveway. Art Deco design elements occur throughout the property, and traditional decor employs lacquer, marble, granite, wood, and original art. Rooms and suites come with spacious dressing rooms with a full-length valet box for discreet delivery of laundry and packages; they also feature Peninsula’s industry-leading, intuitive in-room technology, with room functions controlled at the touch of a button, and VOIP telephones that allow guests to make free local and international calls. For arrival and departure in style, book the hotel’s Rolls-Royce Phantoms or 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II. The property also has China’s first hotel private yacht, a British-built Princess 54 model.
This huge property comprising two towers—the River Wing and the Grand Tower—showcases Huangpu River views from its position by the riverside promenade. The Grand Tower, designed by New York–based Kohn Pedersen Fox, features 375 rooms and suites, while the more classic River Wing has 577 rooms. High-style restaurants and bars sit between the two. Rooms have crystal chandeliers and a mural of Chinese flowers above the bed. The Gallery, in the Grand Tower, exhibits paintings and sculptures from up-and-coming artists, which rotate each quarter.