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To stay at this three-story courtyard hotel in the historical heart of the Latin Quarter is to be surrounded by intellectual giants: the ghosts of figures such as René Descartes or James Joyce, who each lived nearby, and by present-day students and teachers at the most elite universities and high schools of Paris. The youngsters’ extracurriculars—café lounging, bar hopping, and vintage record, book, and clothes shopping—give the quarter a unique mix of history and life.

Hotel des Grandes Ecoles occupies three 19th-century houses along a private cobbled passageway leading to a courtyard garden. Old-fashioned in the best sense, one of the charms of the place is that the compound feels like an escape to a French granny’s country cottage. Small by American standards, rooms done in toile or floral fabrics exude classic Gallic charm; French cotton lace and matelasse drapes the sitting tables and beds. Bathrooms are immaculate but simple, with either shower or bathtub and toilet.

A stone’s throw from downtown Split, Marjan is a hilltop park about the same size as New York City’s Central Park. Known as “the lungs of the city,” it’s the ideal urban escape, offering places to run, bike, swim, and even rock-climb. A serene path through fragrant pine forests leads up to Telegrin Peak, revealing charming chapels and sweeping sea views. Along the park’s waterfront, there are also several popular beaches, Kašjuni Cove being the favorite.

At this tranquil spot in Oranjestad, hundreds of species of butterflies flutter among tropical flowers, groomed gardens, and a Japanese pond, all set beneath gauzy netting. Docents lead tours past rushing waterfalls, crystal-clear pools, and native flowers, sharing their encyclopedic knowledge of the pretty critters. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to witness babies hatching—one of the farm’s biggest draws. For a perfect picture, wear bright colors like yellow and orange to attract the butterflies to your shoulders.

Bray Farm is located in Yarmouth Port, Mass on Cape Cod. There are some scenic walking trails there and a variety of animals. Just behind the farm is a nice Cape Cod marshy area. If you go there during mealtime the animals can get animated. These sheep were too busy eating to care that I was taking a picture of their backsides; Either that or they were in time out.

The Freedom Trail is the artery connecting most of Boston’s key Revolutionary War sites, from Boston Common to the USS Constitution—16 stops in all. Besides providing you with some history, following the red stripe around town also delivers an easy self-guided tour of the heart of Boston, including the lively North End and Charlestown. The Common, Old North Church, the Paul Revere House, and the site of the Boston Massacre are obvious and obligatory stops, but the trail also leads to three legendary cemeteries, the 1718 Old Corner Bookstore (now a Chipotle restaurant, of all things), the 1713 Old State House, and the unmissable Bunker Hill Monument, whose cornerstone was laid by Lafayette to mark the 50th anniversary of the bloody battle between British troops and patriot militias in June 1775.

The Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt is a true palace. Built by an English Argentine railway executive, this Tudor Revival mansion dates to the late 1800s. The Duhau family, which bought the property in the 1920s, added an additional neoclassical building modeled after Le Château du Marais outside Paris. The property sat empty for a few decades at the end of the 20th century until a local developer partnered with Hyatt to turn it into a hotel. After a $74 million renovation, they helped preserve much of the original artwork and red marble flooring, invigorating the once faded Belle Epoque elegance. A larger, sleek tower with modern guest facilities was also added.

The property today is a testament to the grandeur of the most European city in the Americas. There are crystal chandeliers, intricate ironwork, and travertine marble bathrooms. There’s a bar where one can indulge in cigars and brandy, after, of course, dining at one of several high-profile restaurants with wine cellars designed to impress even the most hard-core oenophile.

If you’ve come to Siem Reap, you’ve already got architectural wonders on the mind. And though you’ll spend your days learning about a 1,000-year-old civilization, a stay at Viroth’s Villa allows a more recent era of Khmer creativity to be contemplated: the 1960s. The decade saw the arts flourish in newly independent Cambodia, most notably in the modernist New Khmer Architecture style.

Viroth’s Villa’s boxy, petite, two-story building is one of the Le Corbusier–inspired genre’s few remaining examples (there are others in Phnom Penh and Kep, on the coast), and its owners, Fabien Martial and Viroth Kol, went to great pains to honor its clean lines and honest aesthetic when renovating the dilapidated building in 2007. Rooms use local materials to modern effect, with dark gray tiled floors and polished terrazzo baths, woven water hyacinth mats, and teak doors. Decor is kept to a minimum—a single standing Buddha, a giant frond from an Elephant Ear palm in a vase—but expertly curated and placed, lending the property the feel of a Southeast Asian art gallery. The intimate, seductive style can also be found in the couple’s second, larger property, Viroth’s Hotel, a newly constructed 1950s-inspired space that opened in January 2015.

Though the airport and city highlights are all a quick drive away, the Fairmont feels like a true getaway thanks to its setting on Palm Jumeirah island. There, surrounded by views of the Arabian Gulf and Dubai Marina, you’ll find 381 guest rooms and suites, each with warm, contemporary-Arabic décor, marble soaking tubs, Le Labo bath products, Nespresso machines, and furnished balconies. Many of the rooms are designed to be connected to form their own locked-off section, making the hotel ideal for family travel. Also great for groups is the wealth of amenities, starting with the 10 restaurants and lounges featuring everything from authentic Indian, Korean, and Taiwanese fare to Brazilian churrascaria and American burgers and shakes. A Kid’s Club, four pools, beachfront loungers, a health club, and a Willow Stream Spa help keep everyone entertained, as do off-property activities like water sports, speed boat rides, and golf at three nearby clubs.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

On the North Shore of O‘ahu, Turtle Bay Resort is the only hotel of its caliber on this less developed part of the island. Set on a 1,300-acre property—half of which has been set aside permanently for conservation—the 408 rooms and suites all have ocean views and a neutral/blue palette inspired by the surrounding area. The resort’s commitment to environmental sustainability is palpable: Meals are prepared with leafy greens, beets, and other crops from the resort’s own Kuilima Farm, a plot of land five minutes from the hotel with a farm stand and “you-pick” self-harvesting days for locals. Meanwhile, the 18-hole golf course is maintained with gray water treated by the resort’s own plant.


The resort doubles as a wildlife sanctuary. A birding experience via electric golf cart led by Captain Scott Sundby, who runs Shaka Kayaks and has lived on the North Shore for 20 years, offers a glimpse at some of the wild residents. They include the ‘alae ‘ula, or Hawaiian common gallinule, which according to Hawaiian legend got its fiery red forehead from the gods, and Hawaiian monk seals, one of the world’s most endangered seal species. The coastline here is set within the Hawaiian Island Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, extending more than 1,200 nautical square miles; in the winter, it’s the site of humpback breeding, calving, and nursing.

A new member of The Set hotel group, the Lutetia reopened in the summer of 2018 following a four-year renovation led by noted architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. Now, the original Art Nouveau–meets–Art Deco structure provides a backdrop for 184 enlarged rooms and suites, each with wood paneling, handblown Murano glass, and Carrara marble. The seven signature suites, which include two penthouses, also boast perks like private balconies and 360-degree views of the city. Enjoy a drink in the sophisticated Bar Aristide (with its two smoking rooms and cigar sommelier) or the chic Bar Josephine (named for actress and dancer Josephine Baker, another hotel regular), then find sanctuary in the glass-roofed Le Saint-Germain salon and its adjacent courtyard. L’Orangerie restaurant serves casual fare with a healthy, organic twist, while the sleek Lutetia Brasserie offers gourmet menus from three-Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passedat. Continue the indulgence at the brand-new, 7,500-square-foot Akasha Spa, with six treatment rooms, a pool and Jacuzzi, and a state-of-the-art gym.

Galeries Lafayette Haussmann is worth a visit if only to stand under its magnificent glass dome. The family business has survived as a one-stop-shopping hub for five generations, thanks to steady innovation and an emphasis on high fashion and design. Shoppers appreciate its easy VAT refund policy. There are also multiple restaurants, a rooftop terrace with stunning city views and a cultural space for rotating art exhibitions.

The nine-mile dirt road through Pike’s Peak National Forest is a properly isolated, remote, and grand driveway to Lost Valley Ranch, one of the few guest ranches in Colorado that is so close to Denver. (It is only about two hours by car from Denver International Airport, and a short drive from any other front range city.) The drive leads you through the still-recovering burn area of the 2002 Hayman Fire, then dips down into a green oasis, in a cozy corner of the Goose Creek drainage. Lost Valley is a traditional, medium-size ranch with plenty of history and a robust kids and teens program in the summer. It’s all about horseback riding in the morning and afternoon, a lazy schedule punctuated by the dining room bell and yelps of happy children and ranch dogs playing in front of the main lodge. Lost Valley Ranch books week-long, all-inclusive packages throughout the summer season; shorter stays are available in spring and fall. Rates begin at $3,020 per adult, and cheaper for children (how much cheaper depends on age), and include meals, lodging, horseback riding, evening entertainment, and children’s programming (Trap shooting, town purchases and massage therapy are extra).

You may not know it, but as you peruse the stalls of vendors at Mercado San Juan, you just might be rubbing shoulders or vying for the plumpest, prettiest chayote with one of Mexico City‘s top chefs. San Juan is the market for serious home cooks and pro chefs alike. Here, you can find everything from just-off-the-boat fish and seafood to wild game. There have even been rumors over the years (urban legend or fact?) that if you know who to ask, you can procure true exotics here, including tiger and bear meats. If you’re not in the market for any goods to go, you can let your nose lead the way to a stall where prepared hot foods are sold. And don’t miss trying chapulines, toasted grasshoppers, which are a Mexican snack specialty.

Debre Birhan Selassie is a small church located in the heart of Gondar, Ethiopia. The original church was was built by Emperor Eyasu II, grandson of the great Emperor Fasilides, in the 17th century. The present day church was rebuilt in the 1880s following damage by marauding Sudanese Dervishes. I found the exterior of the church to be rather unassuming but once inside, I understood why this little church is one of Ethiopia’s top tourist attractions. Every inch of wall and ceiling space is covered with painted images. The beamed, painted ceiling will immediately grab your attention. Look up and you’ll see the faces of 123 winged cherubs representing the omnipresence of God and the walls depict biblical scenes and saints. On one end of the chapel, two curtain covered doors lead to Holy of Holies where the church’s copy of the Ark of the Convenant is housed. Above the two doors are icons of the Holy Trinity (the Father, Son and Holy Spirit as represented by three identical men with halos) and the Crucifixion. There’s a lot of significance to the murals and this is the one place where having someone explain them to you makes sense. The priests do offer tours – just be sure to leave a small contribution behind when you leave.