It's fun to imagine that Xcalak, a sleepy coastal village south of Mahahual on Mexico's Costa Maya, is what the entire Caribbean coast of Mexico looked like before the creation of the Cancún megaresort in the 70s. No Spring breakers, no cruise ships, no thumping beachside clubs, no big hotels. Just white sand and palapas, palm trees and pelicans, hammocks and fishing boats. Just you in secluded relaxation away from it all.
Several clean and basic hotels are located on the old coast road and fresh, cheap seafood is abundant at local favorite Toby's. Dive and snorkel trips can be arranged at XTC Dive Center (www.xtcdivecenter.com), located about 300m north of town.