We were just walking up the road, really. We'd been to the tourist information centre, to get our bearings in Knoxville, and we were looking for dinner. Barely two minutes into our walk, we noticed a couple of guys moving sound equipment into a music shop that seemed already plenty full of it. "It's for the gig tonight," one of them explained. "It starts in the radio studio over the road, then it moves here around 8pm." Intrigued, we dutifully returned after dinner to find the cosy little store humming to the eclectic sounds of roots and rap. Having walked in off the street and settled into one of the two cosy sofas in front of the tiny stage, we were treated to an appearance by (Carolina Chocolate Drops cellist) Layla McCalla, who sang haunting songs inspired by her Haiti heritage. An utterly memorable evening - and Layla later told us it's a regular occurrence. So if you're in Knoxville, check out the music store - you never know who might be playing that night.