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There’s something restorative about the glowing paper lantern and purple and white noren hanging in front of the sliding door of this homey koryori izakaya (small dish bar) in Kyoto’s central Nakagyo’s ward. Inside, all hunches are verified by the warm Kiharu-san himself, who grins mischievously behind the L-shaped, 10-seat counter and bar stocked with a rainbow of elegant sake and shoshu bottles. But the real restoration starts with the soul satisfying food, specializing in perfectly charcoal-grilled seasonal vegetables, like roasted palms in their husk, onions in their skin, and golden bowls of snow peas bathing in a pool of golden chicken fat. Slices of roasted salmon served with Matsuyama citrus, fragrant bowls of rice porridge spiked with conger eel, and platters of paper-thin chicken doused in green onions are hearty works of edible art.