The freshly pedestrianized alleys in the “Historic Triangle”—the traditional commercial heart of Athens
, with whole streets once dedicated to textiles, door handles, or buttons—is the city’s new gastronomic destination. Countless street food joints have come and gone in the last few years; but none have the consistent quality and original flavor of Feyrouz. Run by a charming family with roots that stretch from Antioch to Istanbul
, Lebanon, and Cyprus, Feyrouz is a culinary journey to the Near East. Pull up a stool or a find a spot at one of the sidewalk benches and tuck into cheesy pide, delicately spiced lahmacun, sourdough pies, and zingy vegetarian soups, none of which cost more than a few euros. The Bosphorus rice with curried chicken, chickpeas, and yogurt sells out almost as soon it emerges from the kitchen at 2 p.m. Their newer, smarter sister venue across the street specializes in Anatolian sweets. Try the künefe, a crispy kataifi nest filled with Cretan goat’s cheese and drizzled with heather honey syrup, or the buckwheat baklava with pistachios from Aegina. Enjoy with a glass of turmeric tea sprinkled with sumac or a Turkish coffee flavored with cardamom.