Philadelphia

The country’s sixth-largest city, Philadelphia has long been a travel destination for families and history buffs. But Philly, or that “overlooked middle child” between New York and Washington, D.C., has only recently found its place as an arts and culinary destination. Visitors will find world-class galleries and museums, and premium food fare ranging from artisan chocolates to world cuisines. The city’s friendly row house neighborhoods are interspersed with parks, squares, and welcoming outdoor spaces on both the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers. And as anyone who’s watched Rocky knows, Philly locals are a proud bunch with an underdog spirit and an “atty-tood.”

View of buildings in the Center City of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

Photo By Jon Bilous/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Philadelphia?

Philly’s gorgeous parks and outdoor spaces are enjoyed year-round, though summer weather in the City of Brotherly Love can be oppressive during long stretches of humid days. Ideal times to visit are during spring and fall. Local parks and squares feature a multitude of flowering trees, providing lovely scenery in the spring and vivid colors in the peak of autumn. Winters in Philly are unpredictable and sometimes brutally cold. Those visiting in winter would be wise to choose a hotel in Center City to avoid transportation hassles in the event of a snowstorm.

How to get around Philadelphia

The Center City area is a 20-30 minute taxi ride from Philadelphia International Airport, depending on traffic. Taxis charge a required flat rate of $28.50 from the airport to central Philadelphia, which includes Center City and some outlying neighborhoods. The city’s public transportation system, SEPTA, operates a train line from the airport’s Terminal B with stops at several downtown stations.

While central Philadelphia is concentrated and easily walkable, those who plan to visit attractions in more remote neighborhoods can travel by SEPTA buses and regional rail lines. Bus fare is $2.50 and exact change is required. Tokens and day or weekly passes can be purchased at a discount. Taxis are easily available on downtown streets or at any hotel.

Can’t miss things to do in Philadelphia

There is no better introduction to the city’s outlying neighborhoods than a Mural Arts walking tour. Visitors get to see parts of the city that are truly off the beaten track while viewing an array of painted masterpieces gracing buildings all over Philadelphia.

Food and drink to try in Philadelphia

The Philadelphia restaurant scene is thriving and holds its own against any world-class city. Stand in Rittenhouse Square and you’re a stone’s throw from dozens of the city’s finest restaurants. For a top dining experience, choose one of the many restaurants of the city’s three culinary heroes—Jose Garces, Stephen Starr, and Marc Vetri. Philly’s Chinatown offers unlimited options for ethnic food. For a quick lunch or early dinner, the Reading Terminal Market provides endless choices—from standard local fare such as cheese steaks and hoagies to artisan grilled cheese and soul food.

Culture in Philadelphia

The keystone of Philadelphia’s thriving arts scene is the stately Philadelphia Museum of Art, recently bolstered by an annexed building across the street that enabled it to expand its already impressive exhibit space. Visitors should not miss the world renowned Barnes collection of priceless Impressionist paintings, recently transferred from the suburbs to stunning new digs on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. But the jewel in Philly’s cultural crown is the city’s Mural Arts program, which has earned it the title of “Mural Capital of the World.” Visitors can take a trolley tour into various Philly neighborhoods to view buildings transformed by all manner of imaginative murals. Those interested in the local gallery scene should spend a day roaming 2nd and 3rd streets in Old City for an impressive array of original arts and crafts—two highlights of which are The Clay Studio and The Center for Art in Wood. Old City hosts a popular “First Friday” event, when the openings of new gallery shows are celebrated with wine and cheese.

The spring through fall seasons in Philly offer unlimited neighborhood street events like the 2nd Street Festival in Northern Liberties, the biannual Rittenhouse Square Fine Art Show, and gatherings of food trucks in Fairmount and other areas. Summer music festival highlights include July’s XPoNential Music Festival hosted just over the Delaware River in Camden by revered local public radio station WXPN, and the relatively new Made in America Festival on Labor Day weekend. Penn’s Landing on the Delaware River is host to frequent free events all summer long. And you won’t regret spending time strolling South 9th Street in mid-May, when the nation’s oldest outdoor market throws its annual Italian Market Festival.

Local travel tips for Philadelphia

Yes, Philly is a big city, but most of its historical and cultural attractions are located in Center City or along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, an area that is eminently walkable. Finding parking in the city is difficult, making walking and public transit the less stressful alternatives. The Reading Terminal Market, a regular pit stop for grocery shopping or lunch, gets crowded during conventions and other large events nearby such as the annual Philadelphia Flower Show, so get to the market early. Locals wanting to stay tuned to the never-ending offerings of street festivals and events use the excellent website uwishunu, whose neighborhood and seasonal guides are invaluable.

Guide Editor

Sue Manuel is a self-taught artist and photography addict who is passionate about music, travel, and doughnuts. She is a regular visitor to New Orleans and her other favorite destinations include Hawaii, Latin America, Morocco, and New Zealand. When she is not exploring Philadelphia’s Fairmount Park by bike or with her dog Daisy, she is busy posting thousands of travel and Philly photos on various websites under the pseudonym lucymagoo.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
A candy store has occupied this building continuously since 1863. The current proprietors, the Berley brothers—who also own the Franklin Fountain ice cream parlor a few doors away on Market Street—are master confectioners. Even for those among us who don’t like candy (is that even possible?), a visit to the store is worthwhile simply to see its charming Victorian interior. Coming here is like stepping back in time, and you’ll feel as thrilled as a kid to peer into the vintage glass-topped cabinets full of chocolates and other sweets. Keep an eye out for the Whirly Berley Bars (chocolate nougat with salted chocolate caramel), and be sure to check out the seasonal creations, like the pumpkin-spice buttercreams.
What do Al Capone and Bruce Willis have in common? They both did time here at Eastern State Penitentiary. (OK, Willis wasn’t an inmate, but he did shoot the film 12 Monkeys here.) The facility’s first inmate was brought through these doors in 1829, and the prison was in use until 1971. After closing, it became a target for vandals and housed a sizable colony of stray cats. Real estate developers proposed repurposing it as condominiums (high-security, of course), but preservationists won out. They raised funds to stabilize the crumbling interior and remove trees that were growing inside some cells. Wander through its stark interior and learn about the fascinating history of this unique site and its previous tenants, including Capone. Don’t miss the special art installations that are on display here all year round.
Located near the National Constitution Center and Philadelphia’s historic district, Franklin Square is an urban oasis that offers fun family activities. One of the city’s five original town squares, it has evolved into a fairground with both daytime and evening attractions. Highlights include the nostalgic Liberty Carousel, a playground, fountain, and a charming Philly-themed miniature-golf course. Visitors can refuel at the popular SquareBurger restaurant. Special events include a winter holiday festival in December, when more than 50,000 lights illuminate the area. During the festival you can also do some holiday shopping, or kick back with a local brew (there’s also a hot-beverage menu just for kids). The park is open from March through December.
The Liberty Bell, long associated with the American Revolution, actually predates the conflict. It arrived in Philadelphia in 1752 at Independence Hall, then known as the Pennsylvania State House. The bell was inscribed with a Bible verse: “Proclaim Liberty Throughout All the Land Unto All the Inhabitants thereof.” An initial crack in the bell was attributed to a test ring that occurred right after it came to the city. But popular legend has it that the bell was still rung in 1776 to officially proclaim American independence. In 1846, the Liberty Bell was cracked for good after being repaired so it could be sounded on George Washington’s birthday; it hasn’t rung since. No tickets are required to view the bell, but visitors must pass through a security screening. Photo tip: For a classic shot, snap a photo of the icon with Independence Hall in the background.
Located in historic Memorial Hall in Fairmount Park, the Please Touch Museum has long been a favored attraction for families with kids ages 7 and under. (Parents—who are so often tired of saying no and holding kids in check in public places—are among the museum’s biggest fans.) Not only does the museum’s collection include over 25,000 toys, it houses a working carousel from 1908, and some of its permanent exhibits include a kid-size city, an interactive garden, and a space station. Special changing displays are also part of the fun. Current program updates and discount offers to followers are posted on their Facebook page.
Federal Donuts, which sells wacky-flavored handmade doughnuts, coffee, and Korean-style twice-fried chicken, is just one example of how chefs in the City of Brotherly Love are pursuing their culinary obsessions. The original Center City shop has been joined by branches around town (including one at the baseball stadium) as well as a satellite shop in Miami: The owners’ whimsical impulse to pick up a doughnut machine on Craigslist in 2011 now seems less crazy and more like the first steps of delicious empire-building.
Verde is actually two stores in one. It carries one-of-a-kind accessories, jewelry, and gifts, which makes it stand out as one of several unique shops in the Midtown Village district of Center City. Serendipitously, the boutique shares space with Marcie Blaine Artisanal Chocolates. In fact, you can watch the chocolate confections being made in the back room by peeking through the large window. A shopa-choco-holic’s dream! While in Midtown Village, venture across the street to another notable shopping stop, Open House, which sells Philly-themed items as well as a curated selection of housewares and accessories.
Philly shakes off the pandemic blues this summer with a lively mix of American history, music, art, and new flavors.
No photograph can capture this extraordinary art space created by mural artist Isaiah Zagar down at the quiet end of South Street in Philadelphia’s Center City—you have to see it to believe it. It’s also not easy to describe: an alternate universe? A magical mosaic environment? A creative outsider’s brilliant vision? A terrarium of otherworldly folk-art delights? Decide for yourself when you take a self-guided tour of this one-of-a-kind, ever-expanding project. The site includes an immersive outdoor-art installation crafted from found objects and handpainted tiles, as well as indoor galleries. The opening hours vary due to occasional public and private events; make sure to check the online calendar.

When the Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia moved out to the Comcast tower, the hotel was transformed into The Logan, a contemporary and city-centric hotel. Guestrooms decorated with unique local artwork have marble bathrooms, Bluetooth connections, and large windows that look out onto Swann Fountain and Logan Square. A variety of suites can suit travelers of various needs, with bunkbed rooms for families, and flexible layouts with Murphy beds for entertainers. The Philadelphia-inspired decor is echoed throughout the hotel, from the lobby chandelier with images of 300 notable residents like Joe Frazier, to the abstract portraits of Grace Kelly outside the elevators. Wrought-iron sculptures lead the way into Urban Farmer steakhouse restaurant, which melds modern industrial and rustic farmhouse design. The Commons lounge serves classic cocktails dating from 1830 to present day, with seating spilling out onto the terrace of the hotel courtyard, as well as inside by the double-sided fireplace for cooler months. In summer, the Assembly Rooftop lounge is the place to enjoy views of the Benjamin Franklin Parkway with a Pennsylvania-brewed beer or house-created shot. The spa has a heated saline pool, a couples’ suite, and a dedicated manicure-and-pedicure area.