Denver

The capital of Colorado—originally called St. Charles, then Denver City, then finally Denver—was staked out in November 1858 as a gold mining town. The local gold ran out pretty quick, but more was found in the nearby mountains. Seeing an opportunity, the town got into the business of providing supplies to the miners and the mining companies. While Denver could have turned into a ghost town (of which there are many in Colorado), it thrived even when the local mines were spent. This resourceful early history goes a long way in explaining why Denver continues to be such an attractive city: easy access to glorious Rocky Mountains, a civic appreciation of ingenuity, as well as great hotels, restaurants, and diversions in town. Modern Denver offers a wealth of fun experiences for those launching a trip into the mountains as well as for those who prefer the view from paved streets.

A colorful mural on a wall with the word "denver'" in the upper right hand corner- mural - pieter-van-de-sande unsplash

Pieter Van De Sande / Unsplash

Overview

Food and drink to try in Denver

For a little insight into the booming Denver food scene, make your way to LoDo’s Larimer Square—a collection of beautiful Victorian buildings where a number of chef-owned restaurants have taken hold, like Rioja, Milk & Honey Bar, and Tag. On summer evenings, diners sit outside the busy clutch of bistros, lit by canopy of string lights, sipping craft cocktails and locally brewed beers, and enjoying dishes that range from tapas to Mexican to farm-to-table treats. Tucked up in the River North Art District, an eclectic gathering of eateries, shops, and creative spaces make up the Source Market of Denver. For those looking to get a little rowdy and keen to dance, hit up the Grizzly Rose—a fun honky-tonk bar with a distinct Western flavor.

Culture in Denver

There are a bunch of great museums in Denver. For the aviation nut, there’s the Wings Over the Rockies Air & Space Museum, a giant hanger at what used to be Lowry Air Force Base, full of planes and rockets. Art lovers will love the Denver Art Museum—originally named the Denver Artists’ Club—with a collection of over 70,000 works of art; for fans of Abstract Expressionism, a trip to a new museum built around the works of Clyfford Still is imperative. History buffs will be drawn to the Molly Brown House Museum, a look at boomtown Denver through the life and home of its former owner and namesake, a survivor of the Titanic. If you can’t get enough of the West’s stunning scenery, a trip to Denver’s American Museum of Western Art offers a small and mighty collection of paintings about the American experience and western expansion.

Outdoor Adventure

A view of the white or buff peaks of the mountains on the western horizon can be a distraction when you’re roaming around the city or relaxing on a café patio. Happily, it’s not hard to get to the mountains and leave the pavement behind. Easy day trips from town include rafting down Clear Creek or heading to Boulder to hike Mt. Sanitas. In winter, ski areas like Breckenridge or Vail are only a two-hour drive. A quick but head-clearing getaway, just outside the city limits, is a visit to Chatfield Farm, part of the Denver Botanic Gardens, where a working farm and meadows of wild native grasses and flora will help you understand the deep appeal of Denver’s surroundings.

Explore like a Local

There are a number of great spots for simply walking in Denver. Get wowed by the native flora of the Rocky Mountains and beyond at the Denver Botanic Gardens where strolling options abound summer or winter, day or night. (The garden’s summer concert series provides a particularly dreamy soundtrack for your meanderings.) For people-watching, good eats, and casual window-shopping, the mile-and-a-quarter-long 16th Street Mall can keep you busy for hours, but is also served by a free MallRide Shuttlebus when you’re done wandering. For indoor perambulations, the five locations of the Tattered Cover Book Store, a great source of civic pride, is also a great (and seemingly bottomless) source for book ideas.

How to get around Denver

Most travelers fly into the Denver International Airport (DIA), 23 miles from town. (Don’t rush through the airport—it’s a showcase for public art and, even though its 1995 construction was newsworthy for bad luck, lateness, and budget overages, the white peaks of the terminal itself—which evoke Native American tepees on the plains and echo the Rockies in the distance—are pretty spectacular to see.) If you’re not renting a car, a new light rail train connects the airport to centrally located Union Station in 35 minutes for $9. If you’re going to take day trips from town, a rental car is recommended but if you’re staying in the city, Denver is one of the best cities for public transit in the West. Light-rail trains, a bike share system (Denver B-Cycle), and bus rapid transit lines make getting around the heart of the city viable without a car.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These splendid properties will transport you to a time when U.S. train travel was glamorous.
Whether you want to dine out in Denver or hike a famed fourteener, these hotels encourage you to explore the state in some unconventional ways.
It’s a dream come true for the dog- and wine-loving set. Plus, it’s for a good cause.
Don’t miss these new and newly renovated hotels when you hit the slopes this year.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
A key component to the mastery of a skill is knowing when to break the rules. As its name implies, Jovanina’s Broken Italian breaks away from the traditional rules and expectations of Italian cuisine with the measured confidence of a master. Owners Jennifer and Jake Linzinmeir bring years of restaurant experience, both in the kitchen and in management, to Jovanina’s, which allows them to find an approachable balance of new flavors and classic dishes to the menu. The airy ground-floor space feels festive, with whitewashed brick walls along one side and a bar running the length of the other; a downstairs wine-bar dining area has a quieter, more intimate vibe. Try any of the handmade pasta specials or go with the favorite: a brick-oven pizza topped with fennel sausage, smoked mozzarella, and caramelized onions.
Opened in 1891, the city’s oldest hotel is a throwback to a bygone era. Individually decorated guest rooms combine old-fashioned details, like claw-foot tubs and antique wood headboards, with modern amenities like USB ports and Bose sound systems; other nods to the past include vintage brass keys with tassels and a second-floor writing desk with functional typewriter (rest assured the front desk will stamp and mail your letter faster than the Pony Express). Inspired by a bar on the Queen Mary, the Art Deco Cruise Room was Denver’s first drinking establishment to open after Prohibition; today it’s known for its collaborations with local distilleries and classic cocktails. Follow them up with the confit chicken pops at the Urban Farmer restaurant, or call it a night and wake early for a honey exfoliating scrub or chocolate-ginger wrap at the on-site spa.
The first hotel to arrive in Denver‘s up-and-coming River North Art District (RiNo), The Ramble brings even more style to the increasingly trendy neighborhood. Accommodations in the 50-room boutique hotel feel both design-forward and homey thanks to antique Persian rugs, a cool color palette, and rich textures. Personal iPads make room service orders easy, and the mini-bar is stocked with carefully chosen snacks (gluten-free vegan protein bars, organic peanut butter cups). As notable as the rooms themselves are, the drinking and dining offerings—all provided by acclaimed New York bar Death & Co—are the real story. For those many days of Denver sunshine, grab a seat in The Garden, an open courtyard space. An intimate 20-seat bar with a cocktail tasting menu overlooks the lobby restaurant, where dinners feature small bites as well as family-style fare. And at the event space Vauxhall, a dedicated bar will host events like film screenings—and, of course, Broncos game viewings.
Kimpton Hotels are known for their playful energy—think nightly social hours, colorful design schemes, and pet-friendly amenities. Located within easy reach of downtown’s museums and theaters, as well as restaurants and shopping in LoDo and Larimer Square, the Hotel Monaco Denver fits the mold. Renovated guest rooms blend cool neutrals and bright accent hues with rich leather headboards, designer wallpaper, and yoga mats with a dedicated channel for guided workouts; spa rooms have separate soaking tubs, and suites have their own sitting areas and sleeper sofas. A $10 per night fee covers speedy internet, loaner bicycles, discounts on drinks at Denver’s Family Jones distillery, and free coffee and evening wine. If you prefer imaginative cocktails, head to Panzano, a northern Italian restaurant with a surprising number of gluten-free items. But if a moment of bliss is all you need to revive you for another day of distillery hopping, the Aveda spa has a sauna and Vichy shower and provides five-minute chair massages during the evening social hour.
Housed in Hangar 1 at what used to be Lowry Air Force Base on the east side of Denver, the Wings Over the Rockies Museum devotes more than 182,000 square feet to everything flying-related, including space vehicles, historical military uniforms, modern and classic aircraft, and flight simulators. In addition to exhibition space, the museum offers an extensive calendar of special events like its Cine-Talk Series (which shows films that feature flying or space travel), the weekly Little Wings Club, Cockpit Demo Day, regular workshops and lectures, and a hugely popular annual Holidays at the Hangar.
From its location in Denver’s Union Station, Mercantile Dining & Provision makes delicious and nutritious meals accessible to commuters and travelers passing through. This is the second eatery by Alex Seidel, a committed restaurateur who purchased a farm east of Denver to better understand the journey food takes from field to plate. The on-site market offers artisan-made provisions from spices and pickled beets to jams and jellies to coffee and potato chips. In the dining room, chef and partner Matt Vawter serves dinners so good you may miss your train—the spicy mussels (served in a tomato-butter broth perfect for mopping up with bread to console yourself after the shellfish and fennel sausage are gone), the housemade pastas, or the rotating selection of fire-roasted meat and fish entrees, can make the most fastidious traveler lose track of time.
Eating fresh seafood in an inland city like Denver is certainly a unique experience, but don’t let the distance from the ocean be a concern. Jax’s mission is to bring the coasts to the coastless, and it does so with aplomb. For the eco-minded, the restaurant is deeply mindful about acquiring ingredients from sustainable sources; it’s the first eatery in Colorado to be certified by the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch program. Jax encourages customers to be smart about their own fish purchases and recommends that patrons use the Seafood Watch app. You’d better believe, after taking that kind of care to bring the ocean to the mountains, Jax prepares everything to perfection. There are two locations in Denver to choose from—as well as two other Colorado outposts, one each in Boulder and Fort Collins.
Located in Denver’s trendy River North district, the Source is a collection of 25 vendors sharing space in the hip industrial interior of a former 1880s iron foundry, where artisans and retailers include a bakery, a butcher shop, florist, coffee roaster, barber, and even a food photography studio. Restaurants include Acorn, a locally acclaimed eatery serving wood-fired specialties (a meaty oak-roasted monkfish comes rubbed with a Moroccan blend of chermoula and saffron ; Comida, a Mexican taquería known for authentic and slow-cooked pork carnitas and fantastic margaritas; as well as a couple of breweries and a cocktail bar. The space also hosts pop-up events for other food vendors, as well as jewelry, home goods, clothing, accessories, and cosmetics, and a 100-room hotel that opened in summer 2018.
If you happen to be in town for Cherry Creek’s annual arts festival in July, Halcyon makes a great base for exploring the neighborhood’s shops and galleries. Crisp white guest rooms with masculine touches have Nespresso machines, smart TVs, and sculptural turntables, as well as subway-tiled bathrooms with brass fittings and peekaboo showers; upgrade to a terrace room for a private outdoor space in which to bask in the Colorado sun. In keeping with its surroundings, the hotel displays more than 700 works by local artists, with an original piece in each room, but there’s plenty of reason to linger in the public spaces. A rooftop pool is lined with neutral-hued cabanas and white cushioned chaises, and two restaurants satisfy every kind of craving: Departure Restaurant + Lounge’s Asian-fusion menu covers miso ramen and roasted-duck fried rice, while Quality Italian offers shareable lasagna, dry-aged steaks, and cannoli prepared tableside. Just don’t be put off by the $30 per day amenity fee on your bill. Though it includes standards like WiFi and pool and fitness-center entry, it also gets you snacks and drinks at the Kitchen Counter, plus access to a Range Rover shuttle for stops around the neighborhood and the Gear Garage, which lends out everything from snowshoes and a Piaggio scooter to Leica and Go Pro cameras during your stay.
The Art is a worthy base for those looking to explore the galleries of the Denver Art Museum, the Clyfford Still Museum, and the Kirkland Museum of Fine and Decorative Arts, which are all within a few minutes’ walking distance. In fact, the glass-walled property feels a bit like an exhibition space in its own right: Upon arrival, guests are greeted by Leo Villareal’s dazzling 22,000 LED–bulb installation above the entrance, while hundreds of other works by the likes of Frank Gehry appear throughout the public spaces—see them on a guided tour of the hotel’s art collection, offered on Saturdays. Minimal guest rooms have light wood furnishings, luxury linens, and neutral walls—the better to serve as a blank canvas for more original artwork—as well as windows overlooking the mountains or city lights. If you’ve worked up an appetite with all that cultural appreciation, order the signature burger with spicy mayo at FIRE restaurant, or sip a Matisse martini with Colorado-made vodka on the fire pit–warmed terrace.