Iceland

An island nation, Iceland is the western-most country in Europe and sits 756 miles east of Greenland. Most of the clichés you’ve heard about Iceland are true: The landscapes are awe-inspiring, dramatic, and occasionally surreal. The people are open, friendly, and speak amazingly good English. And the booze can be quite expensive. Thanks to the presence of the coast-hugging Ring Road, it’s easy to get around to most of the sights, though nature lovers will certainly want to enjoy hikes through the interior and perhaps a bit of glacier climbing (or husky sledging). Even if you don’t get any further than the trendy, high-tech capital of Reykjavik, you’ll be guaranteed a fun and memorable time.

Iceland

Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Iceland?

May to September is perhaps the most popular time to visit Iceland due to the warmer temperatures and extra sunlight (up to 22 hours in the north). But if you go off-season, you’ll find fewer tourists and catch some excellent cultural events. High season for Northern Lights viewing requires dark nights so go between September and mid-April if the lights are on your must-see list.

Gay Pride in Reykjavík has become one of the largest events in the country, featuring a boisterous cacophony of costumes, dancing, and music. Cultural Night (Menningarnótt) is a very popular one-day festival that usually takes place in August and spans dance, design, music, art, and concerts. Outside the capital is the Lobster Festival at Höfn í Hornafirði in the east, or a country-and-western festival in Skagaströnd in the north. Also worth considering is the Westman Islands Camping Festival, which takes place the first Monday in August (a bank holiday weekend). Considering there are only 300,000 souls in all of Iceland, the country produces an impressive amount of cultural activity. Much is centered in Reykjavik, though almost every village and town hosts an annual arts, music, or food festival. One of the biggest throw-downs is the annual Iceland Airwaves festival that takes place in Reykjavik every October or November and juxtaposes the finest local talent (there’s a lot!) against international heavyweights like Kraftwerk and Fatboy Slim. The capital’s Art Festival, held every year in May, promotes international dance, theater, design, and art, while the Reykjavik Film Festival (RIFF) takes place in September each year and shows independent films from Iceland and all over the world.

How to get around Iceland

By far the most convenient way to get to Iceland is by plane: airlines that fly there from Europe and North America include Air Iceland, WOW, Atlantic Airways, Icelandair and SAS. Ferrying is also possible from some Nordic countries such as Denmark and the Faroe Islands.

A convenient highway (Route 1) encircles most of the country except the Westfjords. There are many guided tours by bus and 4x4 available from main cities like Reykjavik and Akureyri, and during the summer an extensive network of bus routes links most places on the Ring Road and larger towns in the Westfjords (the rest of the year, these services tend to be irregular and sometimes nonexistent). Renting a car allows the most freedom to see everything at your own pace. Cycling is another cool option, though the changeable weather makes safety a crucial consideration especially with the storms, gales, and icy roads of the off-season. The only way to see much of the interior is by walking, climbing, and hiking; again, many companies organize tours and walks, but if you decide to go it alone be sure to research your route thoroughly and check with tourist boards for advice and information before setting out.

Food and drink to try in Iceland

Iceland’s food scene has certainly improved since tourism kicked off in the late 1980s. Reykjavik has a cosmopolitan selection of restaurants, from high-end steak and fish houses to lots of mid-range and budget world cuisines. Outside the capital, the choices begin to diminish somewhat. There are generally lamb and fish dishes (plenty of salmon and trout) in restaurants throughout the country, though, and every town seems to have a diner hawking burgers, fries, and the ubiquitous pylsur—a local take on the humble hot dog. For a traditional treat, try harðifiskur (dried haddock or cod), which can be eaten with or without butter; hákarl (putrefied shark that’s buried below ground for several months to break down the toxins); or súrsaðir hrútspungar (pickled rams’ testicles), if you’re feeling really brave. Iceland’s own brand of yogurt, Skyr, is delicious and deservedly popular. Booze is pricey, and sometimes just finding one of the state-owned off-licenses can be tricky. A good local tipple to try, though, is Brennivín. Distilled from potatoes and flavored with caraway seeds, it’s potent enough to have earned the ominous nickname “black death.”

Culture in Iceland

The Icelandic people celebrate their heritage on many fronts, from literature to their long-standing love of shows of physical strength and fitness (many of Crossfit’s current legends hail from the country). Museums and shops around the country offer insight into the history, arts and crafts, and culture of Iceland. For a quick immersion course into many of Iceland’s unique qualities, tour the museums of Reykjavík, including the Árbær Open Air Museum, the Reykjavík Art Museum, and The Settlement Exhibition.

Can’t miss things to do in Iceland

Even people who know little about Iceland would probably be able to connect the country to its most famous feature, the Blue Lagoon, where you can relax in geothermal springs (and have a beyond-expectations meal at the on-site restaurant). Add in some culture at the Reykjavík Art Museum and a day trip out to Þingvellir National Park--where the Vikings held parliament and nature serves up dramatic landscapes filled with waterfalls and wildlife--and, even if that’s all you do, you’ll find yourself falling for this small but vibrant island nation.

Practical Information

Most nationalities can visit Iceland for up to three months as a tourist with a valid identity card. The currency is the Icelandic Króna (ISK), the international dial code is +354, and the country uses the Western European Time Zone. The language of Iceland is Icelandic but many residents also speak English.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
One of the best places to feel the local side of Reykjavik life, the Kolaportid Flea Market is set in a spacious industrial warehouse close to the city’s old harbor. Open at weekends only, you can find anything from wool jumpers and vintage fashion garments to fermented fish and licorice, plus plenty of second-hand books and decorative knickknacks. Best to go early to avoid the crowds (it opens at 11 a.m.)—and best to have cash on you since many of the market’s vendors don’t accept credit cards.
Founded in 2010 by chefs Gústav Axel Gunnlaugsson and Lárus Gunnar Jónasson, Seafood Grill serves up decidedly upmarket Icelandic seafood dishes alongside high-quality meat dishes and some vegetarian-friendly offerings, too, in a wood-heavy interior that casually straddles the hip and the trad. As well as à la carte options such as slow-cooked lamb, grilled chicken breast, and some deliciously rich desserts (try the crème brûlée), the kitchen offers set menus like the multicourse Big Grill Party and Fish Feast. The wine and beer list is top-notch, as is the warm and friendly service. If that isn’t recommendation enough, the restaurant is conveniently located between the city’s famous Hallgrímskirkja church and the busy Laugavegur shopping street.
The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa is one of Iceland’s most visited attractions, and its Lava restaurant has become a big part of making the experience memorable. Set into a lava rock face, the restaurant offers stellar views over the lagoon and serves international food created by Ingi Þórarinn Friðriksson and his team of experienced chefs in a modern, refined environment. The menu features traditional Icelandic dishes such as arctic char, lobster, and slow-cooked lamb, all updated with modern techniques and ingredients. There are also vegetarian dishes and an array of tasty desserts, set menus at lunchtime, and special menus for kids. The drinks list is impressively broad, with a good selection of cocktails and fine European wines should you want to make an evening of it.
Iceland’s largest and most famous geothermal spa lies around an hour outside Reykjavik, quite close to Keflavik Airport. With a dramatic setting amidst large black lava boulders, the steam-filled, creamy-blue pool area is a striking and surreal sight. The Blue Lagoon has been open since the 1980s and today draws some 700,000 visitors a year. The pools are actually created by heated seawater that flows from the adjacent geothermal power station. The waters allegedly cure all manner of skin-related ailments (eczema, psoriasis), but whether these claims are true or not, it’s certainly an atmospheric place to unwind, with very comfortable (99 degrees Fahrenheit) temperatures. The complex includes a small bar that dispenses healthy juices and beer, as well as a spa area for massages andbeauty treatments, and a very good restaurant; there’s also an upscale hotel if you wish to stay overnight.
Strikið, one of the finest places to dine in Akureyri, is spread out between two dining rooms on the fifth floor of an office building. The restaurant’s menu—created by owner and head chef Robert Hasler—features traditional Icelandic dishes such as lamb shoulder and seafood soup as well as modern fare such as sushi and reindeer burgers. The terrific food is matched to wonderful views of the fjord and mountains from huge picture windows and, on the long sunlit nights of summer, from an outdoor terrace.
Surely the world’s only museum to showcase the phalluses of an entire nation’s mammalian wildlife, Iceland’s Phallological Museum is somewhat unique. Despite its obvious quirk factor, the museum is actually an interesting and—for the most part—fairly serious establishment. It offers guests the chance to inspect almost 300 penises (including parts of penises) that together represent pretty much all the land and sea mammals to be found throughout the country. A quarter belong to various types of whales, but there are also samples from polar bears and seals, as well as a letter from a local human pledging his own personal specimen posthumously. There are also elf penises, though you’ll need special psychic powers to see them.
Embarking on a glacier tour has often meant hopping on a gas-guzzling boat or bus; talk about an ethical conundrum. These ice-focused expeditions offer a more environmentally conscious approach.
Götubarinn—the name simply means “Street Bar"—is one of Akureyri’s friendliest and most atmospheric local pubs. Located in the heart of the city, it features cozy nooks for intimate conversations, a quirky interior design that includes old street signs and a piano that plays a central role in the bar’s occasional sing-alongs.
The Arctic Fox Center, tucked away in the tiny Westfjords village of Súðavík, is dedicated to the only land mammal native to Iceland. The nonprofit research institution and exhibition center was set up in 2007 by a group of enthusiasts and scientists to collect all kinds of information about the animal. Located inside a renovated farmstead (one of the oldest buildings in the area), it offers an exhibition that explains that the arctic fox probably arrived in Iceland via ice floes from Greenland, is larger than the European fox, and has a distinctive dark blue summer coat that turns white in winter. The venue also has an on-site café and a couple of orphaned foxes in the backyard.
The fabulous restaurant at Hótel Grímsborgir, Selfoss, Iceland. I love it when the people at a restaurant take the time and make the effort of decorating with pieces that mean something. The blue plates on the walls are Norwegian Porsgrund Christmas plates and every year they make a new one and the people at the restaurant add it to the wall. I am a huge Christmas fan and collect ornaments from all of our travels so this to me was so nice. Also they had displayed such cute presents from people around the world...like the Matryoshka dolls on top of the piano from a couple in Russia who stayed at the hotel. It makes the place have a soul, in my mind. The food served here was amazing, service was excellent....best lamb I’ve ever had and hubby had some amazing cod.Not on the cheap side but oh so worth it.