Toronto

Whatever you call it—Toronna, Hogtown, the Big Smoke, TO, or the 6ix—Toronto is a city of neighborhoods. These enclaves, influenced by diverse ethnicities, blend into each other, creating a unique and special vibe. From the lively Chinatown to the Latin-influenced Kensington Market, the 6ix is more than the film town it’s known to be every September. It is home to some of Canada’s best chefs, an explosive music scene, and abundant visual and performing arts.

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Photo by Sandro Schuh/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Toronto?

Fall and spring are the most comfortable, weather-wise. October and November are cool and crisp minus the snow; March and April can be rainy. In early September, stars and star seekers touch down for the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), so book well in advance!

How to get around Toronto

Your best bet to get to the city from Toronto Pearson International Airport is the UP Express rail line, which takes you to downtown’s Union Station for $12.35 CAD. By taxi, the trip downtown will cost anywhere from $60 to $85. Toronto’s sprawling public transportation system, called the TTC, also has a bus that takes you to the subway and then downtown. Have exact change of $3.35 for this bus, called the Airport Express. The smaller Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport, served by Porter Airlines and Air Canada, connects to downtown Toronto by ferry or an 853-foot-long pedestrian tunnel.

TTC trains, buses, and streetcars traverse the city. A one-way fare is $3.35, and visitors can buy daily, weekly, or monthly passes in stations. You can buy the pass with a credit or debit card. Cash is also accepted, but you’ll need exact change and won’t get the system’s free two-hour transfer. Taxis are readily available, but Uber or local taxi apps like Beck are also there to ensure safe and reliable rides.

Can’t miss things to do in Toronto

Rising 1,815 feet, the CN Tower is an iconic part of Toronto’s skyline. It’s also home to Edgewalk, a thrilling walkway on the tower’s exterior and an incredible vantage point of the metropolis. Nearby attractions include the Hockey Hall of Fame, Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada, and Toronto’s futuristic City Hall, designed by Finnish architect Viljo Revell in 1965. Its giant, illuminated “TORONTO” sign is a popular selfie spot.

The Beaches Boardwalk offers a nice place to walk or run, plus a great skyline view of the city. Walk south to Ashbridge’s Bay Park from Coxwell and Queen, past the cluster of sailboats and beyond the Boardwalk to “the rocks,” where you’ll find this peaceful view. Make a day of it by packing a picnic, your bike, or a swimsuit to for a dip at Woodbine Beach, the largest of the area’s four beaches, and a 15-minute stroll west. Just north is the Burger’s Priest, known for its tasty hamburgers.

Food and drink to try in Toronto

Toronto is renowned for its widely diverse food scene. From Afghani kabobs to Aboriginal fry bread, Belgian waffles to Bahamian guava duff, Tibetan momos to Taiwanese fried chicken, you’ll find it here. The scene has even birthed its own fusion combos: Kensington Market’s Rasta Pasta is Canada’s first Jamaican-Italian fusion spot. Toronto also boasts three Chinatowns, Little Italy, a Koreatown, Little India, and a kaleidoscope of cuisines in neighborhoods like Scarborough, Brantford, and Markham outside the downtown core.

With 13 Michelin starred-restaurants in the city, Toronto cuisine extends beyond poutine. Canoe is famous for haute Canadian cuisine with views to match. SAP, at the Bay department store, is a runner-up. And a new breed of chef is spurring innovation with restaurants like Alder, Parquet, and Sunny’s Chinese.

Markets come to life in every neighborhood on the weekends. The best-known is the historic St. Lawrence Market, flush with fresh produce and eating options, including the famous peameal bacon sandwich from Carousel Bakery.

Culture in Toronto

There’s plenty to do in the city. The Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario offer fun and thought-provoking exhibitions and events on a regular basis. Bloordale Village, West Queen West, Ossington, and the Distillery District house clusters of small art galleries. The Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts is home to performances by the Canadian Opera Company and the National Ballet of Canada. And the symphony performs at the unusually-shaped Roy Thomson Hall. Toronto’s quirkier sights include the Bata Shoe Museum and the Canada Walk of Fame in the heart of Toronto’s theater district.

Although Toronto is known for its film festival, TIFF, Hot Docs brings film buffs back every April. North by Northeast (NXNE), Canadian Music Week (CMW), and Jazz Fest keep music lovers entertained in the spring and summer. Neighborhood festivals like Kensington Market’s Pedestrian Sundays happen from May to October. In June, Toronto Pride celebrates the diversity of the LGBTQIA+ community. The Canadian National Exhibition (known as the CNE or the Ex) is a fun way to count down the summer and has become known for quirky food creations like the infamous Bacon Ice Cream Sandwich. Art is celebrated year-round at the Contact Photography Festival in May, Nuit Blanche in September, and the Distillery Winter Village in December.

Local travel tips for Toronto

You can discover Toronto’s grittier side through its graffiti and public art installations. For rogue art, check Graffiti Alley just south of Queen West, though you’ll find glimpses of incredible street art scattered throughout the city. The Red Canoe (Tom Thomson’s Canoe) is a favorite installation in the lovely urban greenspace, Canoe Landing Park. The Toronto Sign, and the annual winter art in the lifeguard stations along the lakefront provide art-lovers lots of detours in town.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
In Toronto’s burgeoning hotel scene, you’ll find Canada’s first Ace Hotel, a reimagined St. Regis, and an ultra-cool boutique stay in a private women’s club.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Hungry for a weekend full of world-class art, diverse restaurants, and beautiful nature? You’ve come to the right place.
Usually, when you travel, it’s to experience a different side of yourself. The more adventurous side, the slightly less scheduled side, the sleep-in-without-guilt side. And when you stay at the Drake Hotel in Toronto, you can’t help but feel like your cooler side is making a much-needed appearance. The recently renovated property on Queen Street West features the kind of interior design that radiates style whether it’s in the kaleidoscopic lobby, the next door theater, or in two wings of suites. That’s because the hotel commissioned artists to showcase their work on plenty of open surfaces — from a black-and-white squiggle accent wall in guest rooms to personality-driven drawings in the elevator — and the results make for surroundings that are the material equivalent of black sunglasses. Paired with of-the-moment details like pink terrazzo showers and wraparound midcentury sofas, and the Drake Hotel is meant to cultivate a see-and-be-seen vibe.

But that’s not to say that the hotel sacrifices comfort for being camera-ready. The staff is kind and always available through text, the beds are soft and squarely stationed in front of a well-appointed bar and flatscreen television, and designer toiletries are filled to the brim. It’s also possible to eat throughout the day at the hotel’s delicious cafe and patio (get the French toast), and then spend the night at its second-floor bar or ground floor lounge. On weekends, even if you’re not a guest, you can stop by for regularly scheduled events including a DJ who spins old and new tunes. If you do plan on leaving the hotel to see the city, then you’re right in the midst of it, and the surrounding neighborhood can keep you readily entertained.

When you stay at the Drake Hotel, don’t be surprised if you feel relaxed, in-the-know, and decidedly cooler once you check out. These are sides of yourself the hotel may have encouraged, but feel free to hold on to them after you return home.
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Tickets are on sale now for the “Beyond Monet” experience featuring paintings by the famous French impressionist.
Among the neighborhood’s art-minded hotels, the Gladstone is the most interactive, with shows, classes, and ongoing events. The 37 rooms, all designed by local artists, have breathed new life into the 128-year-old icon, which filmmaker Christina Zeidler took over in 2003 and revitalized in 2005. The Victorian landmark, named for its avenue (in turn named after four-time Canadian Prime Minister William Gladstone), has been a gathering spot for over a century. And it was home to legendary Toronto characters like cowboy Hank Young, who became a fixture at the hotel as a country singer in 1961 and manned the hand-operated elevator from 2005 to 2009, and Peter Styles, former host of Karaoke Night, with applause sign in hand. The legend of Hank lives on in a framed photo in the stairwell en route to the second floor.

The Gladstone continues to push the boundaries of community and culture with creative events like its educational workshop series, Get School’d, and its annual alternative design event, Come Up to My Room (CUTMR), which runs alongside the city’s Interior Design Show. Begin your stay in this architectural gem with a drink at the Café or Melody Bar (that is, if you’re not first thrust into Fameless Karaoke Night).
Ontario has another wine destination, Prince Edward County, affectionately named “The County.” This cluster of towns, about 2.5 hours east of Toronto, is home to some of Ontario’s best wineries. But never was there a great place to stay until summer 2015 when Jeff Stober, the hotelier behind Toronto’s stylish Drake Hotel, opened a rural clone, the Drake Devonshire. It’s the ideal retreat for travelers wanting their Drake by Lake Ontario. Once a 19th-century foundry, the building is now a contemporary farmhouse-cottage, decked out with 11 individually-designed hotel rooms and two suites in the quaint town of Wellington. The property offers coziness all year round in the communal living room and out back over a lakeside fire pit and s’mores. Guests can hang in the barnlike Pavilion for musical performances, sommelier seminars, seasonal events, or just to gawk at the floor-to-ceiling mural by Brooklyn artist FAILE. It doesn’t hurt that Sandbanks Provincial Park—known for its 60-foot sand dunes—is practically the backyard of the Drake Dev.
Amid the city’s 2008 construction boom, Delta Toronto is now at the heart of a brand-new neighborhood: South Core (or SOCO). The mixed-use area of condos and businesses sits near tourist attractions like the CN Tower. The hotel opened in late 2014, and the Canadian Delta chain is now owned by Marriott.

The 46-floor property was designed by architect Mansoor Khazerouni of IBI Architects, who drew inspiration from a glass of champagne. Look closely, and you’ll spot white flecks in the blue glass, like bubbles rising to the top of the building. In the interiors, you’ll see subtle odes to Canada, including a stairwell mural of Canada’s landscapes, from the West Coast to the Atlantic, created by artist Adrian Forrow; it’s a visual interpretation of a cross-country journey. The vibrant Brise Soleil mural in the lobby showcases Toronto landmarks including the CN Tower and Ripley’s Aquarium. Even the meeting rooms are named after Toronto’s neighborhoods.
Bar Raval looks ordinary from the outside, but inside, the sinuous lines of the floor-to-ceiling mahogany woodwork—bar, walls, window frames—instantly bring Gaudí to mind. Created to mimic the spirit of Barcelona’s pintxos bars (in addition to the Catalonian influence of the decor, platters of food are laid out on the bar, as is the Basque pintxos tradition), the space is often packed. In the mornings, patrons sip lattes and enjoy doughnuts finished with a lick of chocolate and spiced hazelnut.
Suddenly, grub that is both Chinese and Jamaican is a thing. Chef Craig Wong, third generation Chinese-Jamaican himself, has taken over a Dundas West space and done quite the number on the local dining scene, turning out a cuisine of his own that manages to encapsulate all that is Toronto. Pick from eats like the Jamaican patty double down — chef’s take on the famed KFC number — and the dirty fried rice with red sausage and peas. For a small group, go with the so-called Whole Shebang and test out Wong’s take on jerk chicken. Dinner can be reserved, but if you’s aiming for brunch, be there when the place opens and tuck into the Hong Kong-style waffles and the luscious maple butter French toast.
Discounted Lindt Swiss chocolates—really, what is not to love about this? You’ll find a wider-than-usual Lindt range here, which means flavors you don’t often see in the shops, from pistachio to sea salt and even Irish cream.