Canada

Canada spans six time zones, and some say that it boasts the longest street in the world. This nation gave the world Leonard Cohen, Leslie Nielsen, Mounties, Tim Hortons, Superman, zippers, the light bulb, and the snowblower. This is a place where polar bears, poutine, and epic panoramas predominate. Canada’s wilderness beckons adventure-seekers from the world over, while the country’s cultural attractions, culinary marvels, hockey rinks, and artistic landmarks thrill visitors of all stripes.

Vancouver Canada totem pole

Jessie Beck

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Canada?

The best time to visit Canada depends on what you wish to experience. The snowy months of winter allow for world-class skiing, snowshoeing, and hockey games. Summer is ripe for sunseekers to explore both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts, the lakes of Ontario, and the wild country of the North. Spring turns the West into one gigantic flowerpot, while fall transforms Eastern Canada into a kaleidoscope of colors. Keep in mind that many Canadians travel during the summer months. Also, national parks and big cities attract thousands of visitors from the United States during school holidays and long weekends, when prices can soar in destinations like Toronto, Vancouver, Jasper, Montreal, Banff, Calgary, and Halifax.

How to get around Canada

Major international airports are spread across the country from Vancouver in the west to Halifax in the east. Many international visitors choose to arrive at U.S. border cities (e.g. Seattle, WA and Buffalo, NY) and then drive across the border. This can be a cheaper way of entering Canada, but be prepared for traffic and extended waits at border checkpoints during peak travel times.

Major cities like Toronto, Vancouver, Calgary, Montreal, and Halifax have excellent public transportation networks: taking the bus, riding the metro, or hailing a cab is a breeze. Smaller cities and rural towns are walkable, but you’ll need a car to get out into the countryside. Public transportation in and out of national parks is virtually nonexistent. The space between metro centers can seem daunting, so consider flying if you wish to cut down on travel times.

Food and drink to try in Canada

Canadian cuisine is as diverse as the country is expansive. On one city block—or on one menu—you may find restaurants serving Ukrainian, Chinese, Irish, German, Portuguese, Haitian, Nigerian, and Ethiopian dishes. Each province and city has its own culinary flair: you’ll find unique Western fare in Calgary and Edmonton, gastro-nouveau in Toronto and Vancouver, fine French dining in Montreal and Quebec City—and the best the ocean has to offer in Halifax, Charlottetown, and St. John.

Culture in Canada

Have you come for the great outdoors, or Winnipeg’s Folklorama? Perhaps you’re in town for Toronto’s MuslimFest, or you made the trek to quirky little Maxville, Ontario, for the Glengarry Highland Games. Massey Hall in Toronto has hosted the world’s largest musical acts for decades, while the Quebec Winter Carnival is Canada’s premiere winter event. The Edmonton International Fringe Festival, held every August, is the largest and oldest fringe fest in North America.

Canadians love to party. Canada Day (July 1) is celebrated from coast to coast, with Canadians and visitors packing public squares, stadiums, parks, and concert halls for massive festivals. The Calgary Stampede takes over Alberta’s largest city every July; Montreal’s International Jazz Festival (June 29–July 9) welcomes 2.5 million visitors each year; and Pride, Scotiabank Caribbean Carnival, The Canadian National Exhibition, and the Toronto International Film Festival bring revelry to Ontario’s capital.

Local travel tips for Canada

English is Canada’s common tongue, though French is spoken throughout Quebec and in many Atlantic cities. That said, you’ll hear nearly every other language in the big metro centers. The currency is the Canadian Dollar ($). Tipping is required (15%) in restaurants, and it is generally expected in taxis and hotels. ATMs are everywhere, and major credit cards are accepted across the country. Electricity is 110v.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
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At Nimmo Bay in British Columbia, luxury means snorkeling in 50-degree water, sipping water from cedar-lined mountain streams, and spotting grizzlies from a floating sauna.
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Heli-ski in winter, or hike, bike, and paddle in summer at Eleven Revelstoke Lodge, a revamped heritage property in Revelstoke, British Columbia.
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Winter stars are at their brightest and clearest in the darkest corners of the earth. John Barentine, program director for the International Dark-Sky Association, shares where to look up (while bundled up) in 2018.
Of all the reasons to hike in B.C.’s Coast Range, visiting a train wreck would not rank high elsewhere. This is Whistler, though, where a train derailment becomes a canvas for artists and a must-see novelty that remains well off the beaten track (sorry!), even for many locals. A new bridge spanning the Cheakamus River makes the hike legal and considerably less treacherous. The trail’s steel-meets-seedlings design is reminiscent of New York City’s High Line, and among the many spurs are a boardwalk into the coastal rain forest and a longer trek that leads to the Sea to Sky Trail. Once a hush-hush locale for graffiti artists and mountain bikers, the Train Wreck hike and suspension bridge route are now well-marked at the Sea to Sky trailhead, just outside of Function Junction.
Brandywine is just one of half-a-dozen provincial parks that surround the Sea to Sky Highway like a fir wrap. A trailhead located just 12 miles south of Whistler leads to a 15-minute walk through the mixed hemlock forest to a 200-foot cascade. The falls overview is merely a picturesque appetizer for the fantastic wilderness beyond. The Lava Lake trail provides a marvelous meander through the forest, and if it’s a hot day, you might want to hike all the way to Swim Lake. You can also access the Sea to Sky Trail and head north to the Whistler Train Wreck then hike to the Valley Trail through Whistler and beyond. The park tripled in size in 2010 to fully enclose the habitat of the endangered red-legged frog, so keep an eye peeled for peepers.
It might be the handpainted Venetian chandeliers, but Quattro elevates the concept of a ski resort restaurant. This is a level of cuisine and ambience you’re more likely to find in New York or San Francisco. On chef Jeremy Trottier’s menu, the prix fixe fare changes seasonally, with certain favorites, like rigatoni pecorari and risotto, always available. Though Araxi and Bearfoot Bistro lead the party charge during Whistler’s wildly successful Cornucopia festival every November, always check the schedule to see what Trottier is stirring up during this wine and food extravaganza.
Rimrock Cafe stood by itself as Whistler’s destination dining room for years as Whistler Creekside Village matured around it. Chef Rolf Gunther’s menu doesn’t dazzle you with fads, but focuses instead on classics such as terrine of duck confit, foie gras, rack of lamb, and the Rimrock mixed grill, featuring filet mignon, lamb chop, and venison. Like the menu, Rimrock’s cocktails recall former days when every element of a dining experience was done exactly right (try the Canadian Whisky Sour). Not surprisingly with its cuisine and cocktails held at such high standards, Rimrock is known for consistently impeccable service.
The River of Golden Dreams that connects Alta and Green lakes is a calm, meandering stream that gently conveys your kayak or canoe with hardly a riffle in sight. The self-paced three-mile voyage, typically about three hours, takes you under willow branches and between the second growth alder forests. This rare alpine riparian zone is a habitat for breeding yellowthroat warblers, great blue herons, and all manner of amphibians and reptiles, as well as wildflowers like foxglove and Indian paintbrush. Most rivers in the Coast Range have whitewater passages and require guides, but on this run between Whistler’s largest lakes, a novice will feel comfortable behind the paddle. Vessel rentals, guides, and return shuttle services run throughout the summer.
Much of the indigenous artwork for sale in the Pacific Northwest is, unfortunately, counterfeit. It’s difficult to tell if the masks and other artwork carved and painted in Salish styles of gentle curving lines, depicting animal icons such as the raven, wolf, and orca, are actually the work of Coast Mountains First Nations artists. Black Tusk Gallery, in the heart of Whistler Village, is a cooperative founded to represent indigenous artists. You can commission an artist to carve a totem that tells the story of your family. The gallery supports emerging teen artists of the British Columbia and Yukon First Nations people through an annual aspiring artists award.
You can’t miss the Stawamus Chief Mountain when you travel to Whistler via the Sea to Sky Highway. The granite edifice, the tallest monolith north of Yosemite, provides a fine introduction to how stone shapes and defines this landscape. Fathom Stone Art is a gallery dedicated to artists’ work in the local granite as well as marble, jade, quartz, and many other minerals. The grizzlies on display here, carved by founding sculptor Jon Geoffrey Fathom, are particularly popular. Examples of iconic inuksuit, the tall stone markers used by peoples of the Arctic region, are displayed alongside contemporary sculptures from leading stone artists across the region. Many of these sculptors began their careers as Fathom apprentices. You can, too, by signing up for a soapstone art carving class.
It’s not often that one comes across a double-decker theater. In fact, the Elgin and Winter Garden Theatre Centre is the only still-active stacked theater, and has been designated a National Historic Site. Built in 1913 by American architect Thomas W. Lamb for the Loews theater group, the two venues were meant to serve two separate markets. Today, they frequently host live performances, musicals, and films. The Winter Garden is especially unique, featuring a decorative ceiling hung with dried leaves, a touch that transforms the room into a magical land.
The West End neighborhood of Parkdale, once considered an unsavory part of town, has undergone a transformation. One of the new arrivals is the Shameful Tiki Room, a Vancouver transplant with a kitschy Polynesian atmosphere. The cocktail selection emphasizes drinks made with rum and orgeat—tiki ingredients from the 1950s—particularly fruity, boozy punches. The best, dubbed the Volcano Bowl, arrives tableside in conjunction with a smoke machine, a thunderous voice-over, and a flaming “volcano” in the center of the drink vessel. It doesn’t get much more fun than this.