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  • A huge dolomite rock rising up from Hotel Gellért at its base marks one of the earliest inhabited parts of Budapest. The citadel atop the hill was built by the Austrians in the mid-1800s to better control the unruly Hungarians after squashing the revolution (it was later used by German SS troops in World War II). Other monuments dot the verdant landscape atop the hill, which is now surrounded by posh residences. The walk up from the hotel is steep but worth it for the view once on high.
  • Hotels
    4100 Pine Blvd, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150, USA
    Created from two renovated vintage motels in 2016, the 102-room Coachman blends midcentury bones with a modern, outdoorsy sensibility. A few blocks from both Lakeside Beach and Heavenly Ski Resort, it works equally well as a summer or winter base. The seasonal outdoor pool, year-round hot tub, nightly s’mores around the firepit, and lobby beer-and-wine bar make it easy to settle in after a day outside.

    Accommodations range from guest rooms to one-, two-, and three-bedroom suites, plus a standalone cabin with a full kitchen that sleeps four. Rooms pair modern-rustic design with Bellino Italian linens, Malin+Goetz toiletries, Apple TV, and rubber flooring at the entryway—a thoughtful detail for wet boots and ski gear. A complimentary continental breakfast is included.

    Discover more of our favorite Lake Tahoe hotels.
  • 4 Avenue Road
    Conveniently located near the subway, museums, and upscale boutiques and galleries of Toronto’s swish Yorkville neighborhood, the Park Hyatt Toronto originally opened in 1929. Seventy years later, a south tower was added to the hotel, with the art deco–influenced lobby space linking the two. The spacious rooms have a soothing palette of pale peach, dusky pink, beige, and gold. The Annona restaurant has a similarly rich color scheme, boldly decked out in shades of plum and gold, with plush banquettes and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Yorkville. The 18th floor offers sweeping views over Queens Park and the CN Tower, but the main attraction may be the Roof Lounge’s bartender, Joe Gomes: He’s been shaking up cocktails here for the past 50 years, so guests can order a martini from a man who knows how to make them just right. A host of other extras, including complimentary town car service within a five-kilometer radius, free Wi-Fi, and even a kosher kitchen, add to the hotel’s charms.
  • 54, Wellesley Road, Opposite Govt College Of Engineering, Baluchi Vasti, Shivajinagar, Pune, Maharashtra 411005, India
    “What better way to understand yoga than to travel to its birthplace?” says Katie Christ. Two years ago, the food stylist put her life in San Francisco on hold to spend two months studying at the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute (RIMYI) in Pune, India. “It was the biggest luxury I have ever allowed myself.” Katie had been practicing Iyengar yoga, a style of hatha yoga that focuses on alignment and uses props like blocks and belts, for more than 10 years when she decided she wanted to study in India.

    She applied to RIMYI, where the venerable B.K.S. Iyengar (above), the founder of Iyengar yoga, occasionally teaches with his son and daughter. “It’s not for the faint of heart,” says Katie. “There’s no music. No incense.” RIMYI requires each applicant to have eight years of Iyengar experience plus a letter of recommendation from his or her yoga teacher. Acceptance can take up to two years. The year before she attended, Katie traveled to Pune for two weeks to experience life in the city.

    That first visit happened to coincide with B.K.S. Iyengar’s 90th birthday. “I had no Indian garb appropriate for the festivities, so I went shopping, and in one afternoon I saw so much. A woman making a rangoli, a traditional folk art design, let me try to draw one with colored powder on the street. At the market I saw a man whose sole job was to peel garlic bulbs. I tasted the most amazing chai, made by a chai wallah who used pliers to crush fresh ginger into a pot of milk with tea leaves and ground spices. I knew I wanted to stay. [On my second trip] these experiences would become part of my everyday routine.”

    The institute doesn’t provide housing, so Katie used her first visit to find a flat to rent for her two-month stay. “I had the perfect commute: a 10-minute walk through a public garden where I would watch teens flirting on benches and women in saris and sneakers taking their morning power walks.” Classes were held six days a week: two-hour sessions led by a member of the Iyengar family and three hours of open practice each day, and an hour of pranayama (controlled breathing) once a week. “In open practice, I experienced incredible generosity from students who were advanced teachers,” says Katie. “If someone recognized that I was struggling, they would come over to help me achieve better alignment. Several times Geeta Iyengar [the daughter of B.K.S. Iyengar] called out to give me specific instruction.

    I felt incredibly fortunate, considering there were up to 120 students in a class.” When she wasn’t in class, Katie and her Australian neighbors, all senior Iyengar teachers attending the institute, would hit the markets and seek out the best chai, Indian sweets, and chappals (sandals). On Sundays they took trips to sights like the ancient sculptures and paintings in the Ellora and Ajanta caves. Katie felt her body becoming stronger and her head becoming clearer with each passing day. “The goal of yoga is to calm the chatter of the mind. When I arrived I had tons of chatter,” she says. “After practicing so intensely every day for two months, the chatter became a murmur.”

    From $450 for a one-month program, not including meals and accommodations. 91/(0) 20-2565-6134, bksiyengar.com. This story appeared in the January/February 2012 issue.
  • Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53, 80126 Napoli NA, Italy
    New York, Tokyo, and other major cities are home to startling numbers of authentic Neapolitan pizzerias, many with ovens handmade by Neapolitan craftsmen. In those places, pizza making is definitely considered an elevated craft. Perhaps Neapolitans do not think of their cooks as artists because so much of the city’s cuisine is rooted in cucina popolare, or people’s food. What strikes me most about the food of Naples is the uniformly high standards in even the humblest restaurants. That goes for pizzas as well, which makes it impossible to single out one pizzeria. Or so I thought until I visited La Notizia, located up in the hills on the edge of the gritty working-class borough of Fuorigrotta (too far from central Naples to be reached on foot). Owner-chef Enzo Coccia is as obsessed with the details of materials and technique as any Neapolitan tailor.

    From my first bite, Coccia’s pizza struck me as something categorically different and decidedly better than anything I had tasted in Naples—or anywhere else in the world. It was feather light but still chewy, the way Neapolitan pizza should be. The thin middle crust didn’t dissolve into a soupy blend of cheese and tomato. When I asked Coccia about his technique, he formed two small test rounds of dough. He flattened one by hand; the other he rolled out with a can. He threw them both into the wood-burning oven and pulled them out 30 seconds later. The hand-formed dough was light and airy. The can-leveled dough was dense. “I prepare my dough at seven in the morning,” said Coccia. “It needs 14 to 16 hours to rise. I make only 300 pizzas’ worth of dough, and when that’s done, we close. Of course it takes the best and freshest ingredients—artisan mozzarella and local extra virgin olive oil—but it’s more than that. You need a passion for the traditional way. Then pizza can be as artisanal as a suit. 39/(0) 081-714-2155. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue.

  • 746 Valencia St, San Francisco, CA 94110, USA
    You might have caught wind of some recent buzz about this contemporary patisserie with its unveiling of the haute dog, Craftsman and Wolves Chef William Werner’s upscale version of the classic American food (think better meat and a flaky, buttery croissant instead of a bun). Or perhaps you’ve heard people talking about a Mission bakery that served a savory muffin with a soft-cooked egg inside of it (it’s call the Rebel Within). Whatever the reason, head to Craftsman and Wolves for a changing menu of classic and innovative breakfast pastries, cakes, confections, confitures, desserts, lunch, and savory fare, with coffee, tea, hot chocolate, beer, and wine to wash it down. Craftsman and Wolves is open Mondays through Thursdays from 7 am to 7 pm, Fridays from 7 am to 8 pm, Saturdays from 8 am to 8 pm, and Sundays from 8 am to 7 pm. Can’t make it to Mission? Stop by the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market on Saturdays from 8 am to 2 pm or order through their online shop.
  • 606 Patricia Street, Jasper, Alberta, Canada
    Stretching a formidable 27 miles, Jasper’s Skyline Trail is a challenge for all but the most seasoned hikers. The journey is worth undertaking—nearly two-thirds of the route is above the tree line, which means you’ll enjoy stunning panoramic views as the rule rather than the exception. The path runs from Maligne Lake back to the town of Jasper at the foot of Signal Mountain, traversing the Maligne Range mountains in the middle. There’s a short window during which you can enjoy this trail, typically from late July until mid-September. The classic trip includes two nights of camping at Snowbowl and Tekarra campgrounds, but if you’re pressed for time, hike like the locals: Many Jasperites choose to start early and finish late, conquering the entire length in a single day.
  • 1 Chome-9 Marunouchi, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-0005, Japan
    Japan has some of the fastest, most reliable trains in the world. One measure of how much locals appreciate them is the glee in kids’ faces when a Shinkansen glides past their commuter train. Or they line up in front of the sloped nose of a parked bullet train for a photo before taking off on a trip. That excitement has naturally created a market for train souvenirs. You can find socks, shoes, even chopsticks shaped like any number of specific Shinkansen trains. Local train lines also sell their own branded train gear across Japan. The Shinkansen souvenirs are all over Tokyo Station, but a big cluster of them can be found near the underground Yaesu central exit. Leave the turnstiles, and the omiyage shop is immediately on the left.
  • Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA, USA
    Some find this narrow, neon-lit French Quarter street appealing, others appalling. But it’s worth a stroll either way. It’s as if all the sins of mankind and then some were rounded up and corralled here—tawdry strip shows, cheap and potent drinks, the coveting of neighbors’ wives, petty larceny, big-ass beers, bad cover bands, and so on. (Bad cover bands were not technically mentioned in the Old Testament, but to many they’re the street’s most shameful sin.) The heart of the party zone stretches eight blocks from Iberville Street to St. Philip Street, with the thickest concentration of bars on the Iberville end. New Orleans allows alcoholic drinks outside, as long as they’re in plastic cups, or “go-cups"—meaning you can roam the length of Bourbon Street with your beer or hurricane in hand.
  • 845 Front St a, Lahaina, HI 96761, USA
    This airy, oceanfront restaurant can get crowded, so expect a wait whenever you go. It’s worth it, however, for the stellar menu of Hawaiian seafood dishes, plus the tropical cocktails. Pair a ginger mojito or strawberry piña colada with pupus (appetizers) like macadamia-crusted calamari and soy-ginger ahi poke, topped with local Surfing Goat Dairy cheese. Then move on to entrées like citrus-herb grilled fish tacos or the coconut-crusted catch of the day. If you’re not one for seafood, there are also excellent burgers and a teriyaki sirloin on the menu.
  • Coron, Philippines
    The mountainous Coron Island, just northeast of Palawan, is part of the officially designated ancestral domain of the indigenous Tagbanua people (possibly descendants of the original inhabitants of the Philippines). They steward the land and sea, and control access to the island, much of which is off-limits to visitors. There is still plenty to attract travelers to the area, though: a small, sleepy town and clear lakes; limestone rock formations; and white-sand beaches. Those lucky enough to be welcomed into a Tagbanua community can learn about their culture and how they spearfish, as well as the special techniques for harvesting octopuses, seaweed, and sea cucumbers. For snorkelers, Siete Pecados offers rich coral reefs and the chance to spot dugongs, giant hawksbill turtles, and baby sharks. Divers can also hope to get a glimpse of puffer fish, eels, and giant clams. As well as the diverse marine life, there are numerous Japanese shipwrecks from World War II on view underwater. Add in the visibility of up to 80 feet, and this area is a superb playground for diving enthusiasts.
  • Although the city of Jeonju has been famous throughout Korea for centuries, it’s still not a commonly known destination for Western visitors. Recently designated as a UNESCO world “city of gastronomy,” Jeonju is definitely worth a several-day stay, and it’s an easy couple-hour-train-ride from Seoul. In addition to savoring local culinary specialties and wandering the traditional ‘hanok'-house neighborhoods with their galleries and boutiques, check out the chess and go-players on the benches just outside of the Gyeonggijeon shrine, on the corner about a block to the east of the venerable Jeondong cathedral. “Jang-gi” is the Korean version of Chinese chess, and “Ba-duk” is the local name of the game more widely known as “Go.” On sultry summer evenings, grab an ice-cream (red bean and melon are popular flavors) from across the street and then check out these neighborhood ‘haraboji’ (‘grandfather,’ the respectful term for older men), engrossed in strategy on the sidewalk of one of Korea’s most traditional cities.
  • 105 S Mill St, Aspen, CO 81611, USA
    Pinons restaurant is the best kept secret in Aspen. It has been here for 20+ years with Rob Mobilian, now the owner, starting off as the chef. On a busy night you will still see him in the kitchen but mainly he is at the front door greeting guests with the General Manager, Jim. The dining area is very elegant and the service is impeccable—but the bar menu is the best value in town. The bar menu gives you an option of two courses: one appetizer and one entrée for $35. If you splurge for my favorite entrée, the Pan-seared Buffalo Tenderloin in huckleberry sauce, it is $44. Not bad considering that normally the tenderloin is $48 on the dining room menu and with the bar menu you get that and a starter for cheaper. (The portions are the same size.) What could be better? Seating is on a first-come-first-served basis so it can get crowded but it is worth the wait.
  • 3 Place Georges Brugmann
    Away from the busy city centre, on pretty Place Brugmann, in Brussels Ixelles neighbourhood, is local foodie favourite, Gaudron. Gaudron is many things: a catering company, a restaurant, a party venue, a deli, and a relaxing terrace to grab a drink after work. There’s one question however, in which the name Gaudron inevitably comes up – Where to get brunch in Brussels? Gaudron was one of the first of Brussels’ restaurants to catch on to the Sunday brunch concept and they haven’t looked back.You can choose from delicate, fresh pastries, egg dishes, or lunchtime favourites, like salads, croques and hamburgers. There are fresh squeezed juices and homemade smoothies and milkshakes. It’s a loud, bustling sort of place that’s filled with groups of all ages and is family friendly. With a huge selection of salads in the deli, it’s vegetarian and vegan friendly too. If you want an authentic Brussels neighbourhood feel, it’s worth escaping the centre for a trip to Gaudron.
  • Rue au Beurre 31, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium
    Maison Dandoy has been baking delicious treats in Brussels since 1829 and you’ll find their famous shops scattered around Brussels. Step inside, and you’ll be greeted by the sights and smells of crunchy biscuits (cookies) looking much as they have since the shop began. The beautiful packaging makes Dandoy cookies a great gift (even if it is for yourself). Be sure to try the traditional Speculaas (or Speculoos); a spicy, crunchy gingerbread cookie, popular throughout the lowlands. While the Dandoy shops can be found all over, only one is home to the Dandoy tearoom. In my opinion, it is well worth seeking out for arguably the best waffles in Belgium. There are two types of waffle here—Bruxelles (Brussels); rectangular and flaky and Liege; rounded and baked with sticky sugar. How best to eat a waffle in Belgium is hotly contested. Locals swear waffles should be topping-free. I however am a sucker for the stewed cherries and vanilla ice-cream. However you order yours, just don’t ask for a “Belgium Waffle.”