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Tucked away on the second floor of a courtyard building in the residential Recoleta neighborhood, the shoe store Comme Il Faut is a magnet for tango dancers. Customers provide their shoe sizes to cheerful saleswomen, and stacks of shoeboxes—in every color and heel height—emerge from the back.

One of the top properties in southern Bali, the Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay is laid out like a Balinese village that tumbles down to the sea. Villas are separated into clusters of 20 to 25 thatched-roof units enclosed by a courtyard wall, making the 156-accommodation property feel more intimate. Modeled after regional homes, they’re adorned with local artwork, traditional textiles, and hand-crafted furniture. Daybeds, private plunge pools, and ocean views are among the amenities, as are offerings such as lavish spa treatments, hands-on cooking classes, and twilight yoga. The resort is even home to a historic temple and shrine, which guests can tour with high priest Aji Ngurah. After a day of exploration or relaxation, there’s no better way to unwind than by enjoying a cocktail on the deck at modern Asian restaurant Sundara, where fire pits warm the air and waves provide the background music.

Far above the city streets on the 52nd and 53rd floors of the Roppongi Hills building, the Mori Art Museum houses contemporary works by primarily Japanese and East Asian artists in a range of mediums, including photography, design, fashion, architecture, and video installations. There’s also an observation deck on the 52nd floor with an open-air Sky Deck, a lounge, a café, and a restaurant with outstanding views of the city. Keep in mind, though, that there are a myriad other dining options as well on the lower floors of the Roppongi Hills building, one of the tallest in the city.

Rurutu, located in the remote Austral Archipelago, is a magical land of migrating whales, abundant vegetation, limestone caves, and smiling faces. Accessed via Air Tahiti flights from Papeete five times per week, the car-free island is like no place else in French Polynesia. Comprised of a massive chunk of coral that was lifted up to form it, Rurutu has otherworldly topography – think sheer cliffs of pocked coral and giant caverns filled with ferns and stalactites. It is home to unique coral snorkeling, white-sand beaches, sacred marae, and fabulous biking (the island is very hilly). A continuous reef rings Rurutu (so there’s no lagoon), but despite the open ocean fronting it there are more beaches on Rurutu than most French Polynesia islands. The sand is also a bright white here and made from ground, bleached coral. Besides lounging on the beach, you can look for whales along the shores from roadside observation stations between July and October. Note, unlike the rest of French Polynesia, the Australs get really chilly between May and November and are best avoided during this time. From December to April you’ll find warmer temps, but it still isn’t hot enough for air-conditioning most of the year.

One of my favorite dive sites on the west coast of Puerto Rico is Crashboat in Aguadilla. This shore dive is easily accessible for all levels of diving, and you’re guaranteed to see something amazing on this artificial structure. Crashboat is named for this once Air Force based marina, where the “crashboats” would deploy to retrieve the crashed planes from training sessions of Air Force pilots. It was later abandoned and turned into a recreational area for locals and dive enthusiasts. Scout the pilings for seahorses, frogfish, octopi, and lionfish. At maximum depth of 30 feet, find a sunken base where bigger fish like to hide. Bring your flashlight to scope out the interior. Not a diver? No problem. Enjoy the sandy beaches, reggaeton music, and aromas of delicious Puerto Rican food all day long. One entire side of this recreational park is lined with street vendors selling food, handicrafts, and drinks. Want that true Puerto Rican vibe? Want to see how the locals relax on a weekend? Crashboat is your place. But if you’re not interested in the crowds, come here in the morning on a weekday. I dive here regularly, and I avoid crowds by diving early. Enjoy!

Stroll a rain-forested path—or hire a brightly painted rowboat and guide—to reach this open-air watering hole. It anchors a rudimentary botanical garden up the Indian River, one of the most famous Pirates of the Caribbean film locations. Try the Dynamite Punch, a stiff concoction allegedly containing 44 fruits. “One cup is good, two is better, but for three, we call 9-1-1,” cautions Guide James “Bond” Henry.

Through the end of June, the Museo di Sant’Agostino hosts a fascinating exhibit on the Machines of Leonardo DaVinci - including his bicycle, the air screw, and a massive interpretation of one of his earliest gliders. Housing in a converted monastery, the building itself is also a lovely space to visit the 16th and 17th century paintings and sculptures on permanent display.

Directly off the northern highway is Columbus Park, overlooking the scenic harbor at Discovery Bay, where Columbus was thought to have first anchored—although recent indications are that he sailed there from St. Ann’s Bay. The park is the only open-air museum in Jamaica, displaying artifacts dating back to Arawak times. Take in the glorious views, ideal for a photo op, and step back into a slice of Jamaica’s history.

Just a stone’s throw from Lake Ashi at the foot of Mt. Fuji lies Hakone Jinja, a wonderfully old Shinto shrine nestled among the forests that dot the surrounding hinterlands. The tree-lined approach by foot through the red torii gate lends a mysterious, almost mystical air to the whole visiting experience, especially when shrouded by fog from the lake. Definitely worth checking out as part of any jaunt out to Hakone!

There’s nothing better after a long day than to get outside and take in some fresh air. The walking paths that weave in and around Park Boulevard are perfect for that post-work day stretch. You can enjoy the manicured lawns, the gurgling fountains, and the numerous sculptures as you casually stroll (or jog, if you’re so inclined) among the mini-lakes in this cute suburban setting.

The best way to hop between popular tourist sites is to hitch a ride on one of Tumon’s ubiquitous open-air trolleys. Trolleys make stops along Hotel Row in Tumon, as well as at select locations in downtown Tamuning and Hagatna, including Two Lovers Point and Chamorro Village. Not only are trolleys among the only forms of public transportation available on Guam, they’re also a pleasant way to explore the island.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

Named after the Creole word for “almond tree,” this flower-filled, open-air restaurant enjoys pride of place at the pioneering eco-boutique Rosalie Bay Resort. The kitchen employs healthy ingredients fresh from its organic garden in dishes like vegan gumbo, hummus with plantain chips, and a beet-goat-cheese salad. Omnivores should try the grilled lobster tail or citrus-honey chicken.

In an all-white open-air dining room that spills out onto the sand overlooking Meads Bay on Anguilla’s west end, Jacala serves just 35 guests a night. Chef Alain Laurent’s French-inspired menu includes dishes such as fennel-spiked conch chowder, snapper meunière, and a steak tartare prepared tableside upon request.

While scouting out the remaining lighthouses left standing on the Oregon coast, I was lucky enough time my visit with two gray whales. There’s a vintage whale watching station just across the parking lot at the Umpqua River Lighthouse and with a few quarters, I was able to see the action. By flipping through my guidebooks, I learned that morning is the best time to scout for the views of the mighty whales, that like to hang out at the mouth of the Umpqua River where it empties into the ocean. In the morning light, the sun is at your back at the viewing station, meaning you can spot the whitecaps that the whales create (instead of the ones that the wind and waves create later in the day). At the station, you’ll find a sign with a few helpful suggestions to spot these magnificent creatures. You’re instructed to look for puffs of vapor that seem to hang in the air, just above the water. Those spouts usually rise twelve to fifteen feet into the air and when you spot one, you’re bound to see several in the same area. Soon, you’ll be able to observe the head, back and flukes as the whales roll on the surface.