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Opened in 2012, the West Street Hotel wholeheartedly embraces its waterfront location. All 85 rooms have views of Frenchman Bay and are decorated in nautical Americana (think navy, red, and cream color schemes and lots of sailboat patterns on the upholstery). The hotel can arrange a lobstering trip on a real-deal commercial boat or an excursion to nearby Acadia National Park. There are more than 120 hiking trails that range from low-key to strenuous: Advanced climbers can summit Cadillac Mountain, the tallest peak on the U.S. Atlantic Coast. For a guided tour of the park with less effort, board Oli’s Trolley, which picks up riders across the street from the hotel.

This appeared in the June/July 2015 issue.

What kind of hotel might attract such diverse guests as Pablo Picasso and Elizabeth Taylor, Mata Hari and FDR, Queen Victoria and Jay-Z, Tchaikovsky and the Olsen Twins? The answer is Le Meurice. Opened in 1815 as one of the world’s first five-star hotels, this icon near the Tuileries Garden has long appealed to both the posh and creative sets; its ties to the art world are particularly strong, having hosted Picasso’s wedding dinner and served as Salvador Dalí’s Parisian pied-á-terre for over 30 years.

For recent renovations of the public spaces, interiors guru Philippe Starck and his designer daughter, Ara Starck, took inspiration from Dalí for some of the more playful touches (like the quirky portraits of 18th-century personalities painted on the backs of leather seats). In the 118 rooms and 42 suites, designer Charles Jouffre maintained a French classical style, with traditional and antique furnishings, rich fabrics, Garnier Thiebaut linens, deep-soaking tubs, and—in higher-category rooms like the Pompadour Suite—oak floors and fireplaces.

There are two entrances to this historical restaurant. The main entrance on the rue de l’Ancienne-Comedie and a “back” entrance that is part of a lovely passage called Le Passage de Cour de Commerce Saint-Andre. There are many passages still remaining in Paris [note, I am going to do a separate post on some of the ones we visited and will link to it when I do]. They are covered shopping areas that allowed the wealthy to shop unencumbered by the elements. Architecturally they are fantastic to visit and photograph, some have endured better than others. This passage was opened in 1735, and was built on part of the old wall of Paris, around the time of the King of France, Phlippe Auguste. This wall made up the limit of Paris during the Middle Ages! The entrance to this passage is at 128 Blvd St. Germain. No matter what door you enter, Le Procope is a great restaurant to experience a traditional (and yes, heavy) French meal. The menu has all the classics: coq au vin (chicken in wine sauce), entrecot (steak), magret de canard (duck breast); beouf tartare, as well as several fish selections. The starters are equally traditional with terrines, salades and escargot (snail), among others.

In Nancy, visitors can download an art nouveau itinerary for free from the tourist office website, then tour 250 buildings and storefronts featuring wrought iron, stained glass, and ceramics. They can also visit the Musée de l’École de Nancy, one of France’s few museums dedicated to the art nouveau movement in Lorraine. About a 45-minute walk from Place Stanislas, the museum highlights the region’s contributions to architecture, decorative arts, and furnishings, with pieces by key artists like Louis Marjorelle, Jacques Gruber, and Émile Gallé. Surrounding the museum (which is closed Mondays and Tuesdays), there are several more outstanding examples of École de Nancy architecture, including the Villa Majorelle and several buildings along Rue de la Commanderie and Avenue Foch.

Just 20 minutes by car from central Paris, the Saint James Paris feels like another world: A stone-gated driveway opens onto a 19th-century private mansion that resembles a bucolic countryside estate. Surrounded by landscaped gardens, this family-owned hideaway is both a private members club and a boutique hotel. The 50 guest rooms were renovated in 2021 by designer Laura Gonzalez in eclectic, mix-and-match styles to resemble a collector’s home.

This elegant family-run restaurant in the charming village of Sulzburg was founded by Hans-Paul Steiner and his French wife, Claude. Today, it’s helmed by their daughter, Douce Steiner, who, after learning the ropes from her father and then training in France, is now the only female chef in Germany with two Michelin stars.

Simply decorated with antique furniture, cozy carpets, and wooden walls hung with photos, the restaurant keeps the focus firmly on the food. The traditional menu ranges from fresh sea bass, turbot, and red mullet to duck, quail, and desserts like a divine chocolate cake with locally grown cherries, while the wine list showcases some 500 labels (Claude still works as the sommelier). Should you want to make a weekend out of your visit, head upstairs to the associated hotel, which offers comfortable rooms and breakfast in the restaurant every morning.

Gothic and grand, this 18th-century former nobleman’s home stands proudly on the banks of the Grand Canal in the San Marco district. Venetian-born owner and interior designer (among her many talents) Francesca Possati has restored this historic home to its regal glory. She has worked with local artists to breathe new life into original woodwork, ornate trompe l’oeil ceilings, and silk wall hangings, resulting in a once-again polished and posh palazzo. The distinctly Venetian rooms—many with canal views—are styled with rich fabrics, bold wall coverings, and pristine period antiques and illuminated by Murano glass chandeliers. Of course, they’ve been updated with the latest modern perks (like Italian marble and whirlpool tubs in the bathroom).

Stroll the art-filled hallways, splurge for a tasting menu at the elegant restaurant, and watch the gondolas float by from the red-awninged terrace. La dolce vita, indeed.

A five-level emporium specializing in French luxury brands (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel), Le Bon Marché traces its origins to a stall run by a hatmaker’s son and his wife in 1852. The beauty department is under an Art Deco glass ceiling; the third floor features an extensive children’s department with toys, books and clothing. La Grande Épicerie de Paris, Le Bon Marché’s expansive and extraordinary food hall, is across the street.

This is an exquisite international takeout shop. Order salmon and foie gras for a party or get a sandwich and a pastry and go down the block to eat it in the Luxembourg Gardens. On a cold day, we like to sit on a bench near the orangerie, and in the summer, the lawn is gorgeous.

The Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce, with its striped green-and-white marble facade, dates from about 1294. Inside are the tombs of many celebrated early Florentines, including Dante, Michelangelo and Machiavelli. Among the many art treasures are radiant frescoes by Giotto and his pupil Taddeo Gaddi, which decorate the Bardi and Peruzzi chapels, and the newly restored Cappella dei Pazzi, a Renaissance architectural masterpiece designed by Brunelleschi.

Fragonard is among the best-known parfumeurs in France; its history dates back to 1926, when the company was founded by Eugène Fuchs who named it after the painter Jean-Honoré Fragonard. There are several locations across Paris, but the one near the Opera is the most fun to visit, as it’s actually a (free) museum showing the art of perfume-making, as well as a shop where you can buy Fragonard products. Be sure to check out the historic orgue à parfums, a multi-tiered collection of bottles resembling a church organ that were used to mix fragrances.

You probably didn’t think of traveling to Peru for world-class French cuisine, yet here it is. The minute you walk in, you leave the Andes behind in favor of a European vibe, reflected in music, decor, and, of course, what’s on the table. Everything on the menu is French, including the expansive choice of wines. The five- or seven-course tasting menus are the perfect way to sample as many flavors as possible, but if ordering à la carte, save room for sumptuous desserts and a delicious coffee, picking your personal ideal from a wide range of blends.

Lake Maggiore, the second largest Italian lake after Lake Garda, holds the three jewel-like Borromean Islands, Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and the quaint and picturesque, Isola dei Pescatori.

The apéritif of choice in the Dordogne (and in many parts of France) is this sweet dark liquor called walnut wine, but there’s nary a grape in site. The vin de noix is made from young green walnuts harvested between La Fete de St. Jean (June 24) and Bastille Day (July 14), when the shells are still soft and green. Walnut wine is a typically home-brewed concoction. Think moonshine, with a sophisticated French flair. Though I have found it commercially, the best accompanies a good meal with friends around a kitchen table or at the region’s numerous Fermes Auberges (Farmhouse Inns), where all products are made on site. Walk in to any home and you’ll likely be offered a sip. There are hundreds of family recipes for this elixir, each claiming to be the best, bien sur! But most agree, the longer it sits in the cupboard, the better (6 months to years). But it’s worth the wait. Recipe: green walnuts, dry red wine, sugar, and some patience. Et Voila! I’ve often been asked what it tastes like, and my description usually results in a nose wrinkle. A blend of port and prune juice---and it’s delicious. My friend Roland, knowing my love of the apéritif and the memories it summons, sent me these two glasses he’d found in an antique shop in Perigueux, along with a small bottle of his homemade walnut wine. I set the glasses out on my terrace, poured in the chocolate-hued liquor, and toasted to the memory of my beloved Dordogne, and the people from there who have flavored my life.

One of Bordeaux’s more ancient edifices, this UNESCO World Heritage site features a Romanesque wall from as far back as 1096. It’s also where 13-year-old Eleanor of Aquitaine married her first husband, King Louis VII, in 1137, and where fodder was stored during the French Revolution.

The Roman Catholic church was first constructed in the 11th century, though little of the original structure remains. While the Royal Gate dates to the 13th century, the cathedral that stands today wasn’t built until the 14th and 15th centuries. Visit this Gothic-style masterpiece to admire the exquisite masonry and important art collection, which features everything from paintings and statues to silver objects, ornaments, and liturgical vestments. Then be sure to climb the 160-foot bell tower for some of the best views of the city—and, better still, the church’s famously expressive gargoyles.