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Spain (and Europe) is synonymous with sipping a small coffee at a buzzing coffee shop or sidewalk café. The equation is delicate: a great coffee makes up for a lackluster ambience, and a jaw-dropping view can be the difference between a disappointing and a fabulous café con leche.

Spain is the country whose inhabitants get the least sleep in Europe—even with the siesta. So what are they doing? Read on to see what San Sebastiánites get up to during the evening. (It’s more than just pintxo bars.)

Just a short ride from the historic Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Cultural Center, Pestana Palace Lisboa is itself a designated national landmark. The 194-room hotel occupies a carefully restored 19th-century manor that once belonged to the cocoa baron Marquis of Valle-Flôr, and now caters to queens of pop like Madonna (she reportedly stayed in a Royal Suite).

“Lavish” is the key adjective here: The manor is set within an immaculately manicured private park filled with palms, subtropical plants, sculptures, a former pond-turned-swimming pool, and a spa with an indoor pool and Turkish baths. Palace interiors give the air of a gilded cocoon—all ornate ceiling frescoes, soaring stained-glass windows, and magnificent oil canvases—while the main restaurant, Valle Flôr, has Regency airs and Portuguese fare. Guests may linger on Saturdays for a “chic-nic” lunch on the lawn by the pool.

Shop for everything old, antique and secondhand at Barcelona’s largest flea market. Once a collection of ramshackle stands, Els Encants moved into a modern mirrored structure in 2013 where vendors sell everything from home items and clothes to musical instruments and antiques.

Come for auctions Monday, Wednesday or Friday from 8am to 9:00am or try your luck at negotiating a deal on your own schedule. It is open Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 9:00am to 8:00pm for non-auction shopping.

Palma’s most important example of early 20th century modernisme, this striking building with its richly crafted interior decor featuring stained glass and ceramic tiles was designed in 1903 by Catalan architect and Gaudí contemporary Lluís Domènech i Montaner. Originally built as a luxury hotel, in 1993 it re-opened as a cultural centre owned by the Spanish bank La Caixa.

This little-known museum stands in the shadow of Barcelona Cathedral. You’ll find dramatic sculptures from pre-Roman times all the way to the 20th century, including religious works from medieval-era Spain. Frederic Marès was a sculptor by trade, but he was also an inveterate collector, and the museum’s upper floors—called the Collector’s Cabinet—are crammed with 17 rooms of quirky treasures. Among them is the Smokers’ Room, filled with hundreds of pipes, tobacco pouches, cigarette cases, ashtrays, and erotic matchbook covers. Other spaces are devoted to everything from walking sticks to cameras to timepieces to ladies’ accoutrements: gloves, fans, brooches, and even needlework made of human hair.

This Gothic monastery houses collections from Barcelona‘s City History Museum, but if you’ve got only an hour or so, skip the exhibits in favor of a walk around. Founded by Queen Elisenda of Montcada, the wife King James II of Aragon in 1326, the monastery (or monestir in Catalan) is a welcome oasis after time spent in Barcelona’s hectic city center. Three floors of cloisters frame a beautiful garden crowded with orange trees and palms. In their shade, watch goldfish swim through the green waters of the garden’s central fountain. If you’ve got a bit more time, don’t miss the 14th-century stained-glass windows in the chancel. Opening hours are 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, October through March; they’re extended to 5 p.m. from April through September. Sundays, the monastery is open until 8 p.m., and admission is free after 3 p.m. Get there via FGC, L6; stop: Reina Elisenda.

The Barcelona-born artist Joan Miró (1893–1983) enlisted architect and friend Josep Lluís Sert to design this modern, light-filled museum devoted to his works. Built in 1975 and expanded in later years, the galleries house 200 paintings, 180 sculptures, and thousands of drawings, as well as Miró’s ceramics and textiles. Head to the roof to behold a forest of colorful sculptures by the Catalan artist, not to mention excellent views of the city and the surrounding Montjuïc gardens. The space also includes well-known artists from Miró’s day, including Max Ernst, Marcel Duchamp, and Fernand Léger.

In the increasingly gentrifying El Raval neighborhood, along the leafy main avenue of Rambla del Raval, a whole host of restaurants, cafés, and bars are popping up. Among them is this intimate bistro from noted Catalan chef Carles Abellán, which takes a refined approach to traditional home cooking without being pretentious. To that end, the narrow dual-level space, a former bodega, is simply decorated with rustic wood furniture, forest-green walls, and a ceramic-tiled, marble-topped bar. The menu is divided into categories of small dishes—From the Sea, From the Mountain, From the Orchard—plus a few versions of classic Spanish stews. Leave room for the homemade desserts: The soft, silky Brie cheesecake is divine. Reservations are essential.

Less than two hours from Barcelona, in car or via TEISA buses (during the week), La Fageda is a leafy green wonderland after too much time spent in Barcelona’s hectic city center. This beech forest is unique, growing at a much lower altitude than usual for the Iberian Peninsula.In the fall, the vivid red leaves on the trees are especially stunning. No motor vehicles are allowed in the forest itself, but you can hike, bike-ride, or explore the reserve on horseback or even in a horse and buggy for a reasonable fee (reserve ahead). Inside the reserve, visit La Fageda’s dairy farm--you can learn about how the yogurt and ice-cream is made (in Catalan or Spanish), pet the calves, and taste some of La Fageda’s products. Beyond la Fageda, in the larger area of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, there are volcanoes, Olot and Sant Feliu de Pallerols’ old towns, and a medieval castle to see, as well as numerous routes for hiking, biking and horseback riding.

Coastal views, beaches, and hidden coves await you on the Camino Ronda, a 220 km hiking trail in Costa Brava Spain. It runs from Blanes to the northern city of Collioure near the border of France. This extensive and well marked trail goes by many names – Camino de Ronda, Costa Brava Way, and GR-92 (Grand Randonee). It is mainly a coastal hike which takes you to the little coves and hidden beaches of Costa Brava as well as fishing villages and inland landscapes. There is lodging along the way and it appears to be very well marked and supported with resources. I walked a very small portion of it one day to get a feel for the trail. I started in Calella de Palafrugell and walked up to the Llafranc light house and then turned around and came back down. This was enough to get it under my skin and start planning to come back and walk the entire 220k in the next few years. The views are stunning, and the terrain varied, plus at any moment you can cool off in the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean! This is not a heavily touristed trail, so there are few English resources on it. The Tourism board does offer a comprehensive trail book that is wonderful. More Information and resources listed here: http://www.ottsworld.com/blogs/camino-ronda-hiking-spain-costa-braval/

No visit to Granada would be complete without visiting Trevelez. After the majesty and wonder of the Alhambra, allow yourself to be awed once again: this time by the charming culinary delights Spain has to offer. Trevelez is one of the highest villages in all of Spain, and this makes it the perfect place for air-curing legs of ham. For this reason, the ham takes center stage in Trevelez. You will find ham legs hanging from ceiling and in the open air outside, as well as appearing in a host of their dishes, most famously their habas con jamon broad beans and ham. If you will be visiting in June, try to make it for the Day of San Antonio (June 13 or 14) and you will be treated to their annual re-enactment of the battle of Moors versus Christians, which then ends in the town celebrating together! A one of a kind and non-touristic option for anyone interested in the history of Spain. Photo by Andrew Hurley/Flickr.

Colour, music and dancing are an integral part of life in Andalusia, Spain. For a taste of the region’s Flamenco, head to El Patio Sevillano in Seville (Sevilla). A variety of dancers, in colourful traditional costumes, will whirl and stomp across the stage, while a band plays authentic Flamenco music. Catch an early show and then hit the town for tapas and drinks at a nearby Taverna.

Andalucia, Spain, is located in the southern Iberian peninsula. The vast area consists of eight provinces. Among them are Cadiz, Cordoba, Granada, and Seville. I sampled the hams, paellas, wines, and olive oils and enjoyed the tastes and smells of the Andalucian menus. The region is rich in culture and history. The flamenco and bullfights are favorite attractions here. Much of the Moorish-influenced architecture dates to the days of Muslim rule. Muslims ruled Andalucia from 711 when Tariq, an Islamic Berber, conquered the area and called it Al-Andalus. He established it as the Islamic Empire. Al-Andalus was a huge cultural center of vast beauty. In 1492, the fall of Granada put an end to Muslim rule when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella expelled the Muslims from Spain. Andalucia was born and it has been Spanish ever since. Driving through the countryside, I saw beauty around every curve in the road like the rows of olive and oak trees, and fields of grain. I laughed when I saw the huge Osborne Sherry Company’s black bull on the hilltops. These large boards were erected all over Spain to advertise their Brandy de Jerez. I found them charming and so very Spanish. I saw this region of Spain as vast and very beautiful with its mountains, dry plains, and lush forest areas. So many different types of landscapes within the region. I recommend a good guidebook and an up-to-date Michelin map. When renting a car, do so in the States when you book your trip. Happy traveling!