Suva is the South Pacific’s largest and most vibrant city, where all of Fiji’s ethnic, historical, modern, and culinary variables come together. Here, you’ll find paint-chipped colonial buildings side by side concrete shopping malls, scents of curry next to kava stalls, and expats chatting with Indian women in saris or Fijians in block-patterned sulus (wraparound skirts). The bustle can get overwhelming at times, but if you miss Suva, you’ll be missing a large ingredient of Fiji. It’s best explored at leisure and on foot, sampling Fijian and Indian cuisines in one or more of the many small restaurants around town.

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