The chef behind the open-hearth fire at Saison described this nasturtium wrap as the best taco in San Francisco. He could be right.

The wrap may have been the most beautiful dish from Josh Skenes’s tasting menu, but my highlight was a tuna tartare, which Skenes cut to just the right texture by using a scallop shell to tear the meat. He then mixed the tuna with roasted fish fat and sinew and topped it with a gelée made from marrow extracted by boiling fish bones and white soy sauce.

For dessert, he hit the perfect salty-sweet note by piping warm nuvola de pecora—a soft sheep’s milk cheese—into a brioche baked with a thin layer of honey.

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