La Casa de La Abuela is a Oaxaca mainstay, on the corner between the Zocalo and the Alameda, Oaxaca's two central squares. Find the entrance on Hidalgo street, and climb the steps up to the second floor. As soon as you enter you'll see a big clay comal and a woman making fresh tortillas, the sign that this is the real deal: authentic Oaxacan food. They serve local specialties including four kinds of mole (almendrado, coloradito, amarillo and mole negro). Choose a spot by the window to enjoy your meal while you watch the action in the square below.