The beach town of Pimentel, near Chiclayo (on Northern Peru's desert coast), is known for its family-run beachfront cevicherias. These restaurants have immediate access to fish straight from the sea. Ceviche is eaten only for lunch in the north - so make your visit in the afternoon.
Northern Peruvian ceviche is prepared with paper-thin sliced red onions, chile peppers, large chunks of fresh fish and lots of lime juice. The fish gets cooked by the lime juice on the outside, but stays raw on the inside.
Fishermen in Pimentel still use the tule reed boats of their ancestors, which you'll see on the pier and on the beach. The malecon (an ocean front promenade) is lined with decaying stately homes.