Photo by Maggie Fuller
Photo by Maggie Fuller
While recent changes have restricted the number of people who can visit Machu Picchu, the ancient site is still a victim of overtourism.
Overtourism and new restrictions have made some travelers wary of visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The trip can still be life-changing, though—just not in the way you might expect.
When Peruvian tourism authorities implemented new restrictions at Machu Picchu last year, limiting both the number of daily visitors and the length of visits, many outdoorsy travel-lovers were pleased. Good, we thought, it’s about time. Machu Picchu wasn’t built to host 1 million visitors each year; the strain has been increasingly apparent.
A few months before the rules went into effect, Mountain Lodges of Peru (MLP) invited me to join them on a visit to the ancient Inca citadel. The “Sacred Valley and Lares Adventure” was a less-known, culturally immersive alternative to the crowded Inca Trail and challenging Salkantay Trek. There’s so much more to the Sacred Valley than Machu Picchu, the team stressed, and this experience would introduce me to the area and to the people who call it home.
The number of boot-wearing passengers on my flight did little to allay my fears. Neither did the streets of Cuzco. A friend who had visited years before had told me about this rugged little trekking town high in the mountains. But I wandered through the streets of a bustling metropolis, with sleek wine bars, a clutch of third-wave coffee shops, and chic boutiques so new, they hadn’t even made it into the pages of travel guides. I made a note to return to Green Point, a vegan restaurant with gluten-free offerings, and to people-watch from the window of L’Atelier, a second-story, white-walled café/shop that looks out on the trendy San Blas neighborhood.
To acclimate (11,000 feet above sea level is no joke), we spent our first full day close to Cuzco, walking the surprisingly quiet corridors of the popular market in Pisac. Besides our group of eight, few other tourists browsed the rows of T-shirts, piles of wooden spoons, and rainbows of wide-brimmed llama-wool hats that baked under flapping tarps. As we left, our guide turned and pointed up a mountainside to a long line of oversized buses. “Those are the day tours. They all take the same route. They’ll pack in here this afternoon,” he grinned, “after we’re gone.”
It became a running theme; after a morning clambering around the curious circular ruins at the lonely Ancasmarca archaeological site, we’d look down the mountain to see a line of white rectangles snaking its way up the slope. We’d finish a long afternoon hike to the Pisac Archeological Complex just in time to see a big group disappear in the direction of the parking lot, leaving us to peacefully marvel at the tombs pockmarking a cliff and listen to Andres Adasme, MLP’s head of product development and an enthusiast of archaeoastronomy, explain how the Incas designed and built their world based on the stars.
After that first day, I forgot about the crowds; we’d left them far behind. In fact, I doubt the tour buses could have made the drive through the hills outside of Cuzco to the Viacha community, where we lunched with potato farmers and learned about the land. There, our guide pointed out medicinal herbs and wild quinoa—the rainbow, bead-covered fronds look nothing like what you’d expect.
Two of the farmers showed us how to dig up tubers—purple potatoes, yellow yams, and a turmeric-orange root. Gesturing to a nearby mound, they explained how they bury those tubers again, creating a pachamanca, or earth oven. Potatoes, other vegetables, and foil-wrapped meat are all piled together on a fire, then covered with rocks, dirt, and tarps and left to cook for hours. Together with our teachers, we then unwrapped this savory present to reveal a toothsome lunch.
Arriving in Ollantaytambo to catch the train to Machu Picchu was a shock. It was the first time we’d seen crowds in four days. Crowds packed onto the train platform. Crowds queued for this train. Crowds realized this wasn’t their train, then queued for the next train. Then there were the lines.
As we exited the main citadel at the end of the day, we stopped to drink in the most iconic perspective of Machu Picchu one last time. Our guide turned pointed up at a dip in the ridge behind us and the stream of people emanating from it. “There,” he said, “is where we pass when we do the Inca Trail. You do it at sunrise and there’s no one else around. It’s truly magical.”
When people ask me today if Machu Picchu was worth it, I hesitate. The first thing that comes to mind is never the UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s everything else. I can honestly gush about each arresting ridgeline in the Andes that I gaped at and about meeting the indomitable Doña María and her band of weavers. I still make excuses to describe MLP’s chic lodges in excruciating detail and to show off my wide-brimmed llama-wool hat. Wandering through Cuzco’s arty alleyways and sipping a pisco sour at Bodega 139 was worth the trip, as was hiking Huayna Picchu, as was every day spent surrounded by the spectacular Sacred Valley.
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