Los Angeles

Swallow your preconceived notions with a shot of wheatgrass: Los Angeles is a cocktail of culture. Sure, there are the over-the-top poolside parties, but the real L.A. is a diverse blend of characters that drive pop culture, inspire counterculture, and embrace all ethnicities. Nestled between the mountains, the desert, and the sea, L.A. beckons locals and travelers alike to engage in an active and healthy lifestyle. Avocado is always on the menu, a yoga class is always about to start, and a celebrity sighting is just around the corner. But truly the best way to learn is to listen: Getting to know L.A. can take years, so insider knowledge is invaluable.

A view of a person at sunset biking down a ramp towards a road just to the left of the ramp in Los Angeles, California. A the beach is to the left of the road, with houses and palm trees in between the road and ocean. Hazy mountains are in the background.

Courtesy of Shutterstock.com

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Los Angeles?

Los Angeles has a moderate temperature year-round, so any time is a good time to visit. If you’re looking for warm nights, wait until August or September, because “June Gloom” delays the start of summer with overcast skies. L.A. may not experience much seasonal change, but the temperatures can fluctuate over the course of each day—so be prepared to bring some light layers just in case things do cool down.

How to get around Los Angeles

If possible, drive into Los Angeles for convenient transportation. Otherwise, fly into LAX and rent a car—cabs are pricey, and fares add up quickly. In sprawling L.A., a car is essential, so use Waze for quicker routes to dodge traffic jams. For alternatives, try Uber or Lyft to avoid cab hassles. While L.A. is car-centric, some neighborhoods are walkable and bike-friendly, offering a break from the city’s traffic. Public transit is improving, but check routes ahead of time, as locals may not know the best connections.

Local travel tips for Los Angeles

Avoid the crowded center. The best and freshest parts of L.A. are on the fringes: Venice, Santa Monica, Los Feliz, Silver Lake, and Echo Park. Exceptions may be made for unique spots in other neighborhoods like West Hollywood, Downtown, and Culver City, but for those who like to wander and discover, the border neighborhoods are your best bets. Start the week off right with free concerts on Mondays at Hollywood’s Bardot. Or, head to popular east side music venues like the Satellite, which hosts monthly residency nights for the indie elite.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
When it opened in 2015, this museum drew headlines for its extensive contemporary art collection and Diller Scofidio + Renfro–designed building, which resembles a futuristic honeycomb. Then a single exhibition catapulted it into fame: artist Yayoi Kusama’s installation of thousands of twinkling LED lights called Infinity Mirrored Room—The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away. (The artist’s follow-up, Longing for Eternity, opened in 2017.)


There’s plenty to be dazzled by in this museum founded by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Hundreds of skylights illuminate the column-free third floor’s permanent galleries—featuring the Broads’ considerable collection of pieces by Kara Walker, Barbara Kruger, Jasper Johns, and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Insiders know to visit on weekdays for the most relaxed experience or around major holidays and occasions such as Halloween and International Women’s Day for engaging and sometimes provocative tours. Pro tip:

Though general admission tickets are free, it’s wise to book tickets online ahead when they’re released on the first of each month for the following month, especially if you’re taking a date or going with a group (the same goes for Kusama’s rooms). At least two weeks out, request a before- or after-hours guided group tour of one hour, not including the Infinity Mirrored Room.

And make sure to also book reservations at Otium, the trendsetting restaurant by Chef Timothy Hollingsworth located next to the Broad.
A breezy little beach hotel filled with rough wood, natural linen, and flea market finds, the Rose seems, to the uninitiated, like a pure product of quirky Venice’s hipsterfication. In fact, the historic, wood-and-stucco building was built by the beach town’s founder, Abbot Kinney, in the early days of the 20th century; rumor says it was his private brothel, frequented by such friends as Charlie Chaplin. By the 1970s, at the height of Venice’s drug culture, the building had become a flophouse of sorts, and neighbor Dennis Hopper was known to drop by. Before two British photographers discovered it, the house had turned into a mural-covered crash-pad for surfers, yogis, and beach bums of all kinds.

Looking at the low-key Rose now—the town’s first true boutique hotel, barely half a block from the beach—one would hardly know that the entire history of Venice had passed through it. The rooms are spare but stylish, with large windows, art photography, and vintage furniture. Some rooms are large enough to live in, whereas others share a hallway bathroom. Amenities are minimal—Stumptown coffee, bicycle rentals—but a relaxed beach house that attracts artists and creatives looking to delve into Venice’s eclectic, vibrant culture doesn’t need to try too hard to be cool.
As the first boutique hotel in Koreatown, the Line might have been able to get away with cutting a few corners while still attracting a cool clientele. It probably didn’t need to get the hottest young Korean-American chef in L.A. on board (to run one of the most comprehensive and exciting restaurant and bar networks yet seen, by the way), nor did the Sydell Group—the arbiters of cool behind the Nomad Hotel in New York—have to put their stamp on it. The hotel would have been nice enough had the concrete midcentury building not been entirely reimagined by designer Sean Knibb, known for designing half the cool spots in L.A. and more than a few celebrities’ homes. There didn’t need to be a desert greenhouse–inspired pool deck that’s become a hangout for beautiful people at all hours, nor did the famously trendy Houston Brothers (of no Vacancy and Harvard & Stone) have to throw in a midcentury-inspired cocktail bar. Nor did the typical hotel gift shop have to be reimagined as a design and lifestyle store curated by Poketo. The rooms and suites would have been just fine had they not been turned into artsy, industrial-style lofts, outfitted with original commissioned artwork, a minibar of Korean and Western snacks, and Baxter of California toiletries. Of course, all of this did happen, and now Koreatown is home to one of the hottest hotels in L.A.
The first true boutique hotel on L.A.’s east side, the Hotel Covell fits into its trendy Los Feliz neighborhood so well that it feels like it should have been there for years. Created by a veteran of the Los Angeles bar and restaurant scene, the nine-room hotel takes its inspiration from a fictional character’s life: George Covell, an imaginary writer, started out in Oklahoma in the 1930s and ’40s before dividing his time between New York and Paris, where his daughter Isabel grew up. Each distinctively (and painstakingly) decorated suite is based on a place George or Isabel lived, from a rustic-chic Oklahoma house to a 1970s Parisian apartment.
For luxury accommodations near some of the buzziest parts of L.A., book a room at the chic Four Seasons L.A. at Beverly Hills (ask for one with an eastern view so you can see the gorgeous skyline at sunset). Schedule a wellness treatment at the spa, which offers spot-on massages and, for the hippy-inclined, reiki sessions. And don’t miss Sunday’s brunch, a smorgasbord of options ranging from fine cheeses, made-to-order omelets, and vegan chocolate chip cookies that could pass a blind taste test.
The Mexican food at Guisados is great simply because it doesn’t try too hard. The owners, Armando de la Torre Sr. and Armando de la Torre Jr., aim to make every dish just how mom used to make it, and they succeed on every level. From humble beginnings in Boyle Heights to outposts in Echo Park, Downtown L.A., West Hollywood, Burbank, and a Koreatown location on the second floor of the Platform 35 food hall. Guisados has flourished thanks to handmade tortillas anchored by braised chicken breast, flank steak, or pork. The mole poblano taco is especially mouthwatering, and the quesadilla con chorizo is big enough to share—though you probably will want to keep it all to yourself.
Husband-and-wife team Genevieve Gergis and Ori Menashe are behind Bestia, an Italian haven that consistently ranks high on local “best of” lists. The decor follows the name—which translates to “beast” in Italian—with its wall of weapons and meat-hook chandeliers. There’s no wrong choice on this menu, but the roasted marrow bone and alla ‘nduja pizza are favorites for first-timers. Without a reservation, expect to wait at least an hour, even on a weeknight. If you’re looking to dine in a big group or want a primo time slot (7 p.m. on a Saturday night, say), then you’ll need to plan ahead and make a reservation at least a month in advance.
You’ll want to block off at least three hours of your day for a meal at n/naka, Los Angeles’s temple to the elaborate, multi-course traditional Japanese feast known as kaiseki. Chef-owner Niki Nakayama—one of the world’s few female kaiseki masters and a James Beard semifinalist—has created an intimate, authentically Japanese space for up to 26 guests to savor one of two 13-course tasting menus. In a serene setting of minimalist, hand-built furniture, the Japanese American chef serves up a parade of vibrantly colored, elaborately plated dishes, each made with hyper-local ingredients. A typical menu begins with a modern take on sashimi and then proceeds through a series of innovative vegetarian, fish, meat, and dessert courses. One stop-you-in-your-tracks favorite: the Shiizakana (which translates to “not bound by tradition, chef’s choice”), in which spaghettini is twirled with abalone, pickled cod roe, and Burgundy truffles. At the end of the meal, chef Nakayama and sous chef Carole Iida-Nakayama emerge from the kitchen to greet each diner. Pro tip: Plan ahead. A two- to three-month waiting list means you need to be flexible with early or late dinner times.
The boardwalk and bike path from Will Rogers State Beach in the Pacific Palisades to Torrance County Beach in Torrance is a stretch of activity some 20 miles long. Rent a bike, roller or in-line skates, or a Segway and cruise as much of the coastline as you please. The Venice Beach Boardwalk portion is packed with characters, shops, and vendors, and is perfect for picking up a souvenir. Marvel at the strip of contemporary beach houses, including the one designed by Frank Gehry, just north of the Venice Pier, and then stroll down the pier to watch surfers and enjoy the panoramic views.
For those looking for a unique sound or story from their guitar, Old Style Guitar shop on the outskirts of Silverlake has one of the best selections. Owner Rueben Cox skillfully refurbishes guitars by hand stocks vintage, rare and specialty guitars and the occasional ukelele and banjo.