Rome

Rome, as they say, was not built in a day. Nor can travelers really experience the Eternal City in a day—or even a year. Rome’s numerous and diverse neighborhoods require some time to fully explore. The best place to start? With a stroll through the city’s ancient wonders, including the Forum, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon, followed by a perusal of the food vendors at the “new” Testaccio Market--the location changed in 2012 but, this being Rome, it will always be the “new” location--and a tour of the traditional restaurants and watering holes of the Centro Storico. But no matter how brief your trip, be sure to save time for the old Jewish ghetto, the boutique and wine bar–rich Monti neighborhood, and the broad avenues leading to the Spanish Steps. And, of course, stopping for a shot of espresso and a few scoops of gelato is practically a requirement.

ROME, ITALY - MAY 05, 2015 : Unidentified people at street restaurant in Rome, Italy.

ROME, ITALY - MAY 05, 2015 : Unidentified people at street restaurant in Rome, Italy.

Photo by Boris B/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Rome?

Although summer is peak tourist season, it’s also the time of year when much of city life is lived outdoors, and the warm temperatures and long days can be worth the crowds. However, if you’re looking for a less crowded experience and milder weather, the months of March, April (except for Holy Week), and October are your best bets.

How to get around Rome

From Rome’s Leonardo Da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport—the largest in Italy—there are many ways to get to the center of the Eternal City, including by taxi. (They all charge a city-mandated flat fare of €48 for trips within the bounds of the ancient city walls.) It helps to familiarize yourself with your hotel’s location before arrival. You can also come by train; national rail connections arrive at Stazione Termini, while the privately owned Italo Train service arrives at Stazione Tiburtina.

Rome is a very walkable city and also has several public transportation options, including a limited metro system and dozens of bus lines. Taxis are readily available, but they must be caught from a taxi stand or booked by phone—it’s not customary to hail cabs in the street.

Can’t miss things to do in Rome

Don’t miss Rome’s best pizza by the slice (and, therefore, the world’s), at Pizzarium just north of the Vatican Museums. Gabriele Bonci celebrates traditional ingredients and produce, yet combines them in a modern—and delicious—way.

Food and drink to try in Rome

Italy’s 20 regions have diverse food and wine cultures shaped by climate, terrain, and conquest. In Rome, expect to find dishes driven by cured pork, Pecorino Romano DOP, and offal. Pasta is taken very seriously here, and some dishes are specific to Rome, such as tonnarelli cacio e pepe (fresh pasta with cheese and black pepper), spaghetti alla carbonara (a rich dish, sauced with raw egg, cheese, black pepper, and guanciale or pancetta), and, for the adventurous, rigatoni alla pajata (rigatoni with lamb’s intestine). When it comes to meat dishes, lamb is very popular, especially around Easter, and is often roasted, as are offal dishes such as trippa alla romana, tripe stewed with tomatoes and mint. Travelers should not miss the traditional fried artichoke dish, carciofi all giudia (Jewish style), in season from February to May. Participate in a Savoring Rome Food Tour with AFAR’s partner, Context Travel, and get a taste of the ancient city’s cuisines, from gelato to pizza and from the daily open-air markets to artisanal shops to the restaurants of the Jewish Ghetto.

Culture in Rome

Of course, Rome’s culture is heavily steeped in history and tradition, and yet the city retains a youthfulness and vivacity that makes it one of the hippest destinations in Europe. In Rome, life is lived outdoors and thoroughly enjoyed, at a human pace. The ruins of the ancient city serve as a constant reminder to live in the moment, and the Roman passion for love and life is unique. During the summer, there are special evening events in Rome’s cultural sites, such as after-hours visits to the Vatican Museums on Fridays and opera performances at the Baths of Caracalla.

Rome hosts a tremendous number of festivals throughout the year, including Settimana della Cultura (Cultural Heritage Week) in the spring, and the Cinema Festa Internazionale di Roma (Rome’s film festival) in the fall. Also of interest is the Giornate FAI, when owners of historical homes open their doors to the public.

Local travel tips for Rome

Tipping is always appreciated but never required, though many restaurants in central Rome will expect outrageous tips from American travelers. As a rule of thumb, if you were very happy with the service at a restaurant, leave a couple of euros per person; at a pizzeria one euro per person is acceptable. No tipping is necessary at cafés with table service, though it is a Roman custom to leave 10 cents per coffee when it is taken standing at the bar. There is no need to tip taxi drivers, but hotel porters expect one to two euros per piece of luggage.

Practical Information

- Americans can travel in Rome (and the rest of Italy) up to 90 days as long as your passport is valid for six months after the date you’ll depart Italy. For trips longer than 90 days, you must get an Italian visa.
- A member of the European union, Italy uses the Euro.
- Italian standard voltage runs at 220v to 230v, and uses a two- or three-prong plug.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
The newly opened Corinthia Rome debuts in the former Bank of Italy building with a restaurant by prominent Milan chef Carlo Cracco and a spa in the old vault.
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
An Italian family welcomes a daughter and her American husband back to the house on the Adriatic coast where life revolves around rituals of sun, sand, and handmade pasta.
Before she lost her to cancer, an AFAR editor spent five days in Rome with her mom, learning how to live a fuller life.
Just south of Termini train station and Piazza Vittorio, Trattoria da Danilo is easily overlooked as another typical Roman trattoria—and hence its charm. Rustic wooden furniture and framed photos of local celebs converge to reveal the real scene: The city’s best cucina romana, with a menu of classics like carbonara, cacio e pepe, gricia, trippa, abbacchio, and bacala. Some seasonal surprises include a mind-blowing carbonara estiva (summertime carbonara). Unpretentious and reliably delicious, Da Danilo is the Roman restaurant you’ve been waiting for.
A local landmark, Taverna Trilussa has been a Trastevere hangout for nearly a century. The ivy-covered entrance opens to a lively family-run trattoria where prosciutto and dried herbs decorate the walls alongside the usual trappings of vintage photos, books, and paintings. Taverna Trilussa is most famous for its tableside serving of typical Roman dishes like bucatini all’Amatriciana and cacio e pepe, theatrically tossed about in a frying pan or even a Parmesan wheel. Reservations are a must, or else expect to queue up alongside all the tourists waiting for a plate of mozzarella in carrozza.
You can try some of Rome’s best street food at Trapizzino, named for its heralded crispy pizza pockets filled with uniquely Roman flavors like pollo alla cacciatora (spicy chicken), picchiapò (stewed beef), and trippa alla romana (tripe), as well as some newer additions like zighinì (a spicy Eritrean stew). Trapizzino is a two-room shop: a lab where you can pick and choose fillings (and grab takeout), and a second room that serves both as a dining area and a gourmet delicatessen with artisanal beer, canned tomatoes, and tins of anchovies.
A Trastevere institution since 1933, Ai Marmi (the official name is Panattoni, but no one calls it that) is exactly what you’d expect in an Italian neighborhood pizzeria—zero frills, lots of character, and authentic, thin-crust Roman pizza. This is the kind of place to hit for a quintessential Roman vibe, thanks to the requisite lineup of city favorites like fritti, fried cod, fried zucchini flowers, and supplì—mozzarella-filled fried rice balls. The shop gets its nickname from the long marble slabs that top the family-style tables (ai marmi means “marble” in Italian).
An out-of-the-way bistro pretty much worth the flight to Italy on its own, Secondo Tradizione flips the traditional osteria on its capo. Experience paper tablecloths and chalkboard menus with gallery lighting, an exposed kitchen, and a Michelin star–worthy menu. The menu riffs off a yesteryear vibe, which is a tag team of classics (like carbonara and saltimbocca) and locavore products via haute cuisine recipes. The Dal Banco (counter) showcases specialty cured meats and cheeses, while Dalla Cucina listings are the daily creations of chefs Piero Drago and Jacopo Ricci.
The ancient Romans used aqueducts to carry water from distant springs into central Rome. As the empire decayed, so too did these ambitious public works. When Rome experienced a renaissance—not to mention a population boom—in the modern age, popes took cues from the emperors before them and repaired these ancient water channels. To celebrate their grand projects, they built massive public fountains like the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola on Janiculum Hill. Dubbed er fontanone (“the big fountain”), this 17th-century structure was commissioned by Pope Paul V to commemorate the repair of the Traiana aqueduct that tapped a spring near Lake Bracciano north of Rome.
The Galleria Borghese, which is set in the large public Villa Borghese park, was born in the 16th century as the collection of Scipione Borghese, a powerful Cardinal and nephew to Pope Paul V. The Cardinal amassed an enormous number of ancient sculptures, many of which are displayed on the ground floor where several Bernini statues and Caravaggio canvases also appear. The upper story, on the other hand, is home to Renaissance and Baroque paintings. Seek out Titian’s Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael’s Deposition, and Cranach’s Venus and Cupid. Unlike other collections of the era, which were kept in private palaces, the Borghese collection was intended to be open to the public, much like the surrounding grounds known as the Villa Borghese. The family collection is now property of the Italian state. Due to its dimensions and popularity, visits are limited to a fixed number of visitors every two hours and for a maximum of two hours. Be sure to book tickets well in advance and don’t bothering going to the museum without a booking.
Opened in 2013 in a building that previously housed the University of Rome’s architecture department, JK Place is one of the newer additions to Rome’s growing number of high-end luxury boutique hotels. It is located near the intersection of Via Del Corso and Via dei Condotti, Rome’s most chaotic shopping nexus, but it is just far enough away from the action to maintain an air of seclusion, a rarity for the zone.

Behind the hotel’s unassuming doorway, classrooms and offices have been transformed into an effortlessly cool retreat. Like its siblings in Florence and Capri, the JK Place Rome is eclectically decorated and packed with artwork. Rooms feature canopied beds, sculptures, and sleek bathrooms decked out in Italian marble. The JK Café Bistro and bar attract well-heeled locals, giving the hotel a more down-to-earth vibe than its boutique neighbors, without sacrificing its unquestionable elegance.