Vancouver

Vancouver is blessed. This modern city, with its glittering high-rise downtown, is ringed by some of the most beautiful water and mountain scenery on the planet. Visitors love the laid-back and outdoorsy lifestyle: You can ski in the morning, chill on the beach or paddleboard in the afternoon, and spend the night people-watching on a patio overlooking superlative mountain views. Vancouver also appeals to foodies, thanks to world-class restaurants, some of the best sushi outside of Japan, and a cutting-edge cocktail scene. Gateway to the Olympic-class mountains of Whistler, the Asian malls of Richmond, and Canada’s most English city, Victoria, there’s adventure all around this Pacific Northwest paradise.

Suspension bridge in a park in Vancouver Canada hovering over a lush, green forest.

Cayetano Gil / Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Vancouver?

Sure, Vancouver has a reputation for rain—it’s even nicknamed Rain City, or Raincouver, by the locals—but that’s how it gets such gorgeous blooms from spring to fall. No matter when you visit, make sure you bring an umbrella. Year-round the climate is pleasingly mild. During winter it rarely snows except on the local ski hills, and the temperatures hover around 40° to 50° Fahrenheit. Spring arrives early in February or March, and summer ramps up around June but lasts till late September, with temperatures just above 70° Fahrenheit and long, lingering sunsets. The city fills with cruise-going tourists throughout July and August, so canny travelers come in September to enjoy those balmy late-summer days without the crowds.

How to get around Vancouver

Vancouver’s nearest airport is Vancouver International Airport (YVR), which connects in 30 minutes to the city by the cheap and efficient Skytrain on the Canada Line. If you’re coming from Seattle or Portland, the Bolt Bus is a budget option, dropping off at the central Pacific Station; there’s also a Greyhound terminal there. Pricier but fantastically scenic is Amtrak’s Cascades route from Seattle, which hugs the coastline along the way.

Vancouver’s downtown core is easily explored by foot, bike, or public transit. The latter is plentiful and well-connected, with options including the sea bus to the North Shore, the Skytrain, and buses. Car share companies Car2Go, ZipCar, Moda, and Evo are all very popular with Vancouverites. There are also water taxis who ply their trade around False Creek to such attractions as Granville Island and Science world.

Can’t miss things to do in Vancouver

Nothing says “Vancouver” more than a cycle along the 22-kilometer Seawall. Wrapping around Downtown and including Coal Harbour, False Creek, and Stanley Park, you can snap selfies against a truly dazzling backdrop of mountains, sea, and glittering glass high-rises.

Food and drink to try in Vancouver

Vancouver is a cosmopolitan, multicultural city. After English and Chinese, the most common mother tongues are Punjabi, German, Italian, French, Tagalog, and Spanish. This translates into a thrillingly diverse dining scene that benefits from the first-class produce grown in the fertile lower mainland and Fraser Valley, as well as from the superb seafood harvested from the waters nearby. Vancouver’s Asian food scene is second to none, with excellent sushi bars, ramen joints, and izakayas in every neighborhood. You’ll also discover award-winning BC wines, a thriving craft brewing scene, and distilleries creating uniquely Canadian spirits with local ingredients.

Culture in Vancouver

The Museum of Anthropology at the UBC campus is home to one of the world’s best collections of First Nations peoples’ carvings, totem poles, and artifacts. Chinatown’s Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is a must-see, as is the Bill Reid Gallery and the Vancouver Art Gallery. The Vancouver Symphony Orchestra have their home at the ornate Orpheum Theatre, and the city has a lively dance, opera, and theater scene.

Vancouver has more than its fair share of summer celebrations, from the cultural Bard on the Beach Shakespeare-fest, to the three-day Celebration of Light fireworks extravaganza, to the annual Seawheeze Half-Marathon, where 10,000 Lycra-clad yoga fans arrive for a weekend of running, partying in the park, and sunset yoga. But you’ll find something fun to take part in no matter what time of year it is, including winter’s Talking Stick Festival, which celebrates First Nations culture, and the spring Cherry Blossom Festival.

Local travel tips for Vancouver

Vancouver (or Lotus Land, as it’s sometimes called) really does deliver on the hype implied by its regular inclusion on those best places to live lists.
- The city’s inhabitants know there’s no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothes—so don’t let a spot of rain scare you away.
- Free shuttle buses run throughout the summer to Grouse Mountain and the Capilano Suspension Bridge, so get out into the mountains and enjoy the dense, incredibly green forests, no matter the weather.
- Also dive into BC’s incredibly diverse wines, brews, and spirits while you’re here—very little gets exported, so it’s a rare chance to soak up the local flavors.

Practical Information

- Vancouverites are an English-speaking bunch, with just a smattering of French and other languages tossed into the mix.
- On the appliance front, all of Canada runs on the same standard voltage of 110-120 v as the United States. Your hair dryer will work just fine, no adapter necessary.

Guide Editor

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Known for its international flair and heart-of-downtown location, Robson Street is nicknamed Vancouver’s Rodeo Drive for its big-name luxury boutiques concentrated around the intersection at Alberni Street. A short walk from its core is the Pacific Centre shopping mall, where there’s a Holt Renfrew, Canada’s equivalent of Saks Fifth Avenue. After a day of hustle and bustle, grab a bowl of ramen or a plate of sushi at one of the izakayas closer to Stanley Park.
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The first of its kind in this country, this family-friendly museum focuses on the evolution of biodiversity and why it’s worth conserving. Opened in 2010, it showcases more than two million natural history specimens, from fossils, shells, fungi, and plants to insects, birds, reptiles, and mammals. The Beaty also boasts Canada’s third-largest fish collection, all preserved in jars. Don’t miss the star attraction, a spectacular 82-foot skeleton of a blue whale, artfully suspended in the atrium. Hungry for more science? Hit the Pacific Museum of Earth across the street for geological gems like a duck-billed dinosaur fossil, or take the fantastic Greenheart TreeWalk canopy tour of UBC’s botanical gardens.
Born in Auvergne, Thierry Busset trained with European masters before taking his pastry prowess to London’s Le Gavroche and Marco Pierre White (both of which peaked at three Michelin stars). His talent even tamed the famously mercurial Gordon Ramsay, who called Busset “one of the finest pastry chefs in the world.” Nestled on Alberni Street (which is rapidly turning into Vancouver’s version of Rodeo Drive), Busset’s eponymous café is constantly bustling. Pop in for the pillowy macarons, but stay for the soups, quiches, and sandwiches crafted with house-baked bread. Open until midnight daily, the chic eatery also serves spiked drinks, perfect for sipping on the gorgeous heated patio. If you have your heart set on a particular treat, swing by early—fan favorites can easily sell out before noon.
Vancouver’s serene waters serve as the perfect playground for kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders. Newbies can book two-hour “tasters” at Ecomarine’s Granville Island or Jericho Beach locations, while more adventurous paddlers—of any level—can jump right into tours, like the summer sunset excursion along the scenic shores of False Creek (a protected inlet) and English Bay (part of the Strait of Georgia). While most tours last a half or whole day, Ecomarine also offers more hard-core expeditions, like the weeklong trip to Haida Gwaii. This craggy, rain-forested archipelago is often referred to as Canada’s Galápagos for its vast number of endemic species. It also has a wealth of First Nations heritage sites just waiting to be explored.
Wide paths and a laid-back cycling culture make bikes a great way to explore Vancouver. Rent one from Cycle City Tours, which offers self-guided maps as well as outings run by expert storytellers. One tour takes a 5- to 7.5-mile spin through Stanley Park, cruising along Vancouver’s seawall and venturing onto its trails. All throughout, guides explain the biodiversity of the temperate rain forest and the history of the coastal First Nations people. For something livelier, hop on the rolling Craft Beer Tour, which visits three breweries and the excellent Belgard Kitchen. If you’re keen to keep going, you can extend your riding time until the end of the day for another $10.
The longest lines in the city form every day at Café Medina, a haven of Mediterranean-inspired breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch dishes in the Library District. The decor here feels like a minimalist version of 1920s Paris, with aged walls, mismatched light fixtures, and a mosaic entranceway. Equally charming, the eclectic bistro fare ranges from pistachio-rosewater Belgian waffles to halloumi couscous and a harissa burger, spiked with preserved lemon and tucked into a pita with baba ghanoush and two fried eggs. Don’t miss the blistered flatbread, ideally paired with the honey-black-pepper mascarpone side. And finish with a lavender latte, a house-made turmeric soda, or a superb craft cocktail. If you don’t want to wait, skirt the crowds by visiting Tuesdays or Wednesdays for lunch, or arriving at 2 p.m. (an hour before last call).
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